Troubleshooting Compressors

[GordMay]

TROUBLESHOOTING REFRIGERATION COMPRESSORS
(Older Adler-Barbour, Grunert, Sea Frost, Technautics, etc.):

Newer Danfoss compressors BD3.5 and BD5.0 have a built in troubleshooting computer chip to make it much easier to find and solve problems.

Older Danfoss Compressors # BD 2, BD 2.5, and BD 3
Ninety percent of the time it is not the compressor, or refrigerant system that causes the failure of the compressor to start. The Danfoss electrical modules are prone to failure.
If you have bypassed the thermostat at the module, and run the following tests, I would have the module tested. They no longer manufacture modules for the BD2.5 or BD3 compressor but they are available from Frigoboat http://www.frigoboat.com/home.html
PN E254412 - Price: $198.00 http://www.frigoboat.com/Merchant2/m...de=otheraccess

Note: See the Frigoboat web-site (above) for some excellent refrigeration tutorials.

Repeated failure of start, and an audible cycle beep is caused by a program in the electronic module unit. It is programmed to stop the compressor if;

1. Low Voltage (<11.5VDC)
If the voltage is below 11.5 volts during start. Check batteries for charge. Check for a high-resistance connection. The best and quickest way to do this is run a temporary set of wires from a fully charged battery to the compressor electrical module. The wire size and polarity is important.

2. HIGH FAN/PUMP CURRENT (> 1 Amp)
If the fan or if water-cooled, the pump relay, is drawing more than one amp. To check, disconnect one of the wires to fan. If the compressor starts OK replace fan or pump or relay.

3. HIGH COMPRESSOR CURRENT (> 7.5 Amps)
If the compressor is going bad and drawing more than 7 1/2 amps. To check, install an ammeter in the power wire to the refrigeration unit. It should draw 5 to 6 amps when running - if more than 7 amps, the compressor is about to fail. To do this test, the unit must be running. It is sometimes possible with a failed compressor to see a quick movement of the ammeter to 10 amps. or higher.

4. COMPRESSOR RESISTANCE:
The best test to determine condition of the compressor field windings is to check their resistance with an ohmmeter*.
ie:
Resistance between terminals 1 and 2 is 0.2 ohms.
Resistance between terminals 4 and 3 is 0.2 ohms.
Resistance between terminals 2 and 3 is 3.5 ohms.

5. If the compressor tests bad, do not install a new module on it.

6. If the compressor checks out, have the Module tested



* Pin Locations:
Pin 1 is located at the 2:30 clock position, Pin 2 at 11:00, Pin 3 at 5:30, pin 4 at 8:30.
Take care in removing the connector plug from the compressor.

[GordMay]

Excellent refrigeration help !!!

”Number One Danfoss BD compressor Problem” ~ by Richard Kollmann
“... The most common fault with systems equipped with a Danfoss BD compressors is the false start ups caused by low voltage and electronic module failures ... There are two reasons why these refrigerators receive a low voltage signal during an attempted start, low batteries or a voltage drop do to resistances in the circuit ...”
Read the rest at: http://kollmann-marine.com/phpBB/vie...=53&highlight=

Kollmann Marine Home: http://kollmann-marine.com/
Technical Forum: http://www.kollmann-marine.com/phpBB/

[Elie]

Hi, I just discovered your forum and it seems very interesting. I was browsing in search of information and technical help for my Adler Barbour Super Cold Machine that behave strangely. I sail my GibSea 474 on Lake Champlain(North Vermont) and from time to time in the Bahamas and Virgin Islands and other Antilles. I've been sailing for many many years!. I do most of my maintenance myself and I believe this type of forum might be a good place for exchange of expertise about boats and cruising.

[Pblais]

I was browsing in search of information and technical help for my Adler Barbour Super Cold Machine that behave strangely.

Richard Kollmann has a long reputation for boat refrigeration experience and good advice. He has a few posts here and is also a CF member but you can also find him at his web site too (see Gord's links above). Given the fridge eats the most power on most boats it's a good topic for discussion. You may be able to pick up something usefull from our existing library of posts. Try the search tool on the main menu to sort them out for yourself.

I'm getting ready to refit my current boat with a new fridge after a proper land burial of the old one. I'll be following these topics personally. Hauling ice is getting older than I am.

[Elie]

Thanks you all for the fast replies. Paul, in my case, I purchased a new super cold Machine(CU200) to replace my old faithfull frigoboat unit. I installed it and it never worked realy(3 blinks on the status led after a few minutes). I called AB, and the support is not outstanding. They won't recharge the unit after service(provided line connectors not self sealing!) Since I have another Danfoss compressor I'm trying to find out how to connect my new system's control unit to my other compressor to sort out the origin of this malfunction before opening the one way connectors. My quyestion is quite simple: how to bypass the thermostat to test the unit!(AB thermostat is connected via a telephone jack)

[angelo70]

Hi all,

i had a broken refrigerator here, that was starting and after 10/20 seconds stopping and restarting, in a loop.

Controller board, as a replacement is nearly 200$, the entire gorup (compressor+board) is more than 500$.

So about BD 102N3016, i have removed and opened it, written down quite all the schematic starting from the physical board, understood mostly how it works, made a full revision and repaired successfully.

My email is
angelo70 At gmail.com

If you need help or information just write me.

Reagrds
angelo

[Ursmog]

Yes, there is no big problem to rapair those danfoss BD2, BD.5 and BD3 controllers 102N3101, 102N3115, 102N3016, 102N3031, 102N3030.

There is a defect on the controller pcb and there are some parts to replace, because the controller isn't able to detect the position of the rotor when trying to start.
All needed to repair is quite good electronic measuring equipment and some electronic parts...

Those, who do not really good know, how to find defect circuits and how to desolder and solder on a pcb should not try.

I frequently get controllers, which are damaged in a way, that repair is hardly possible.
If interested... 9653@gmx.de

[sanmarco]

Originally Posted by angelo70

Hi all,

i had a broken refrigerator here, that was starting and after 10/20 seconds stopping and restarting, in a loop.

Controller board, as a replacement is nearly 200$, the entire gorup (compressor+board) is more than 500$.

So about BD 102N3016, i have removed and opened it, written down quite all the schematic starting from the physical board, understood mostly how it works, made a full revision and repaired successfully.

My email is
angelo70 At gmail.com

If you need help or information just write me.

Reagrds
angelo

Hi Angelo70,
I sentyou a message previously but as I am new to this forum, I am not sure it was sent properly. This is another attempt to get your advice as we seeem to have a similar problem with our Danfoss compressor. Would you please sahre with me how you repaired yours. Thanks

[sailrarotonga]

Hi there trying to find the winding diagram for the BD3 or BD2.5 we are having trouble with out 102N3031 controller also. Any ideas much appreciated.

Cheers,
Ivan

[pa391as]

I'm having same problem and am interested in repairing the controller. Any help with schematic?

[pa391as]

Same compressor, I'm getting the following readings. I've read that as long as the resistance is < 5.0 Ohms, the compressor is ok. can you confirm??

1-2 4.6 Ohms
4-3 1.6 Ohms
2-3 4.5 Ohms

Originally Posted by GordMay

TROUBLESHOOTING REFRIGERATION COMPRESSORS
(Older Adler-Barbour, Grunert, Sea Frost, Technautics, etc.):

Newer Danfoss compressors BD3.5 and BD5.0 have a built in troubleshooting computer chip to make it much easier to find and solve problems.

Older Danfoss Compressors # BD 2, BD 2.5, and BD 3
Ninety percent of the time it is not the compressor, or refrigerant system that causes the failure of the compressor to start. The Danfoss electrical modules are prone to failure.
If you have bypassed the thermostat at the module, and run the following tests, I would have the module tested. They no longer manufacture modules for the BD2.5 or BD3 compressor but they are available from Frigoboat http://www.frigoboat.com/home.html
PN E254412 - Price: $198.00 http://www.frigoboat.com/Merchant2/m...de=otheraccess

Note: See the Frigoboat web-site (above) for some excellent refrigeration tutorials.

Repeated failure of start, and an audible cycle beep is caused by a program in the electronic module unit. It is programmed to stop the compressor if;

1. Low Voltage (<11.5VDC)
If the voltage is below 11.5 volts during start. Check batteries for charge. Check for a high-resistance connection. The best and quickest way to do this is run a temporary set of wires from a fully charged battery to the compressor electrical module. The wire size and polarity is important.

2. HIGH FAN/PUMP CURRENT (> 1 Amp)
If the fan or if water-cooled, the pump relay, is drawing more than one amp. To check, disconnect one of the wires to fan. If the compressor starts OK replace fan or pump or relay.

3. HIGH COMPRESSOR CURRENT (> 7.5 Amps)
If the compressor is going bad and drawing more than 7 1/2 amps. To check, install an ammeter in the power wire to the refrigeration unit. It should draw 5 to 6 amps when running - if more than 7 amps, the compressor is about to fail. To do this test, the unit must be running. It is sometimes possible with a failed compressor to see a quick movement of the ammeter to 10 amps. or higher.

4. COMPRESSOR RESISTANCE:
The best test to determine condition of the compressor field windings is to check their resistance with an ohmmeter*.
ie:
Resistance between terminals 1 and 2 is 0.2 ohms.
Resistance between terminals 4 and 3 is 0.2 ohms.
Resistance between terminals 2 and 3 is 3.5 ohms.

5. If the compressor tests bad, do not install a new module on it.

6. If the compressor checks out, have the Module tested



* Pin Locations:
Pin 1 is located at the 2:30 clock position, Pin 2 at 11:00, Pin 3 at 5:30, pin 4 at 8:30.
Take care in removing the connector plug from the compressor.