Transfer Switch -- Electrical Advice Needed

[Dockhead]

My boat selects AC power source between shore and generator by means of two ganged Lovato BF25.00 contactors. Two rocker switches on the main control panel select either shore or generator. Shore trumps generator so whenever shore is turned on, generator automatically switches off.


It looks like this:





The one of these which connected shore power has failed. I believe it's the coil, as the circuit breaker for the coil circuit trips when I attempt to energize it.


These contactors are not made any more. I found one in the U.S. which I'm trying to persuade to ship to Europe.


But maybe I should be upgrading all this to some newer type?


This looks like it would work: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Transfer-...%2C121&sr=8-36


or this: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BL7KKBX8/...=AVNYMC294MN6I



And in addition both have a handy manual override.



Any words of advice?

[hjohnson]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Any words of advice?

It’s hard to tell from the links you shared, but at least one of them did not look like a double pole transfer switch. In the marine environment, you want to ensure you’re switching both hot and neutral.

[misssherry]

https://baomain.com/products/szw26-63-d303-3

I have been using this manual switch for a couple of years. It's rugged and pretty much fail safe.

[Jammer]

Lovato BF25.00 contactors are available for around $100 each from many sources around the world. They would be an exact replacement for the failed device and save you the trouble and expense of replacing both. Google is your friend.

Those appear to be IEC form factor so you could probably substitute Fujitsu or other major makers' products.

Typically these contactors are sold for industrial use as motor starters in reversing applications. The requirement for a physical interlock so that both contactors cannot close at once is the same. Again, there are many sources. My experience is in North America where automationdirect.com and digikey.com are major suppliers but I am confident that similar products are available worldwide.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Lovato BF25.00 contactors are available for around $100 each from many sources around the world. They would be an exact replacement for the failed device and save you the trouble and expense of replacing both. Google is your friend.

Those appear to be IEC form factor so you could probably substitute Fujitsu or other major makers' products.

Typically these contactors are sold for industrial use as motor starters in reversing applications. The requirement for a physical interlock so that both contactors cannot close at once is the same. Again, there are many sources. My experience is in North America where automationdirect.com and digikey.com are major suppliers but I am confident that similar products are available worldwide.

Thanks! These are no longer produced, and before writing the OP I managed to find only one of them in the right voltage (230v coil, not 110v, not 380v, not 24v), in the U.S., and the seller refused to ship to Europe. Inspired by your post, I looked again, and did manage to find another one, NOS, which the seller is shipping to me in Denmark.

Naturally it's preferable to replace like for like, keeping the original design and construction as much as possible. The old one worked for 20 years so I've got nothing against it. This was a good tip; thanks!

[s/v Jedi]

I would recommend an automatic unit like:

https://www.victronenergy.com/transfer-switches/filax-2

Or

https://www.victronenergy.com/transf...ransfer-switch

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I would recommend an automatic unit like:

https://www.victronenergy.com/transfer-switches/filax-2

Or

https://www.victronenergy.com/transf...ransfer-switch

Thanks. But why automatic? Wouldn't you want to have the possibility of choosing yourself?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Thanks. But why automatic? Wouldn't you want to have the possibility of choosing yourself?

Think back to all your life sailing. Did you ever connect to shorepower that was fine, but run the genset and use it instead anyway?

[SailingHarmonie]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Think back to all your life sailing. Did you ever connect to shorepower that was fine, but run the genset and use it instead anyway?

Actually, yes.

I agree the automatic transfer switch is a good idea, but it should be set to default to the genset (when running), not to shorepower.

I have a 220V boat. Almost everything on it works with either 50 or 60 Hz power. Almost. The exception of most interest is the clothes washer. If I want to run the clothes washer when connected to 60Hz shorepower, I start the genset (220V, 50Hz), and the automatic transfer switch moves from its normal position of shorepower to the genset position. Granted this is an unusual situation, but it DOES happen. There are also times that I want to pump more amperage into the battery bank than my 220V/16A connection can supply.

It also seems to me that the switch should be set to default to the genset whenever it is running. Think back to all your life sailing. Did you ever run the genset and NOT want it to supply power?

[team karst]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

... and the seller refused to ship to Europe. Inspired by your post, I looked again, and did manage to find another one, NOS, which the seller is shipping to me in Denmark.

.!

A manufacturer or importer cannot legally market/sell into EU electronic/electrical equipment that bears no CE mark.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by SailingHarmonie

Actually, yes.

I agree the automatic transfer switch is a good idea, but it should be set to default to the genset (when running), not to shorepower.

I have a 220V boat. Almost everything on it works with either 50 or 60 Hz power. Almost. The exception of most interest is the clothes washer. If I want to run the clothes washer when connected to 60Hz shorepower, I start the genset (220V, 50Hz), and the automatic transfer switch moves from its normal position of shorepower to the genset position. Granted this is an unusual situation, but it DOES happen. There are also times that I want to pump more amperage into the battery bank than my 220V/16A connection can supply.

It also seems to me that the switch should be set to default to the genset whenever it is running. Think back to all your life sailing. Did you ever run the genset and NOT want it to supply power?

Hahahaha… my joke smashed to little pieces, you’re too smart for this

So yes, you can use the ATS and whenever you run the washer, just start the genset and wait for the transfer

Edit: I thought you had a Quattro… which can do all that.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Think back to all your life sailing. Did you ever connect to shorepower that was fine, but run the genset and use it instead anyway?

Well, yes. I run my generator with a load every month which sometimes requires running it at the dock when it's connected to shore power.


I also use the generator at the dock sometimes when I have loads greater than the shore power capacity. Even with a 16a shore connection -- my generator is 30a . But in the Baltic I'm often on 10a or even 6a connections which is not enough for electric cooking etc.


So -- yes.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Well, yes. I run my generator with a load every month which sometimes requires running it at the dock when it's connected to shore power.


I also use the generator at the dock sometimes when I have loads greater than the shore power capacity. Even with a 16a shore connection -- my generator is 30a . But in the Baltic I'm often on 10a or even 6a connections which is not enough for electric cooking etc.

So -- yes.

So the automatic transfer switch is perfect. Just make sure the Multiplus has power assist configured and set the maximum shore power. Now your Multiplus will add the extra power using it’s inverter.

Shore power and genset only need to provide the average power used. Peaks are absorbed by the house batteries.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

So the automatic transfer switch is perfect. Just make sure the Multiplus has power assist configured and set the maximum shore power. Now your Multiplus will add the extra power using it’s inverter.



Shore power and genset only need to provide the average power used. Peaks are absorbed by the house batteries.

Well, if I had LiFePo batts which don't mind the work, I might do just that. But I have lead batteries, so prefer running the genset to running the batteries down for example washing and drying a load of laundry when I'm on one of those 6 amp French shore power connections; as little as 4a in some places.

I do use Power Boost if the load is short in duration; e.g. running the microwave.

[tanglewood]

You could try Schneider or ABB for a suitably rated contactor. Both are abundantly available in Europe.