Yes, the V from the engine panel is below 10 V, when ignition switch is turned on. We will test with a 12 V wire to the ignition switch.
As I said, it works well if the brown Sterling wire is connected to a high V source.
However, the battery charging light on the engine panel does not go out.
The # 1 green Sterling light stays on, also the yellow light (and the red AGM
light), although batteries are full.
Amps go down after a while from 20 to 15, to about 5, but charging V is 14.3. That shows the regulator works somehow, but should it not go down more? A user question in the Sterling manual (only in the German Q&A section !!!) is answered: The standard regulator (internal?) takes over from the Sterling, which no longer regulates. Please install a separation diode with voltage drop. Now the Sterling regulator can regulate. " This borders on the ridculous. I had two electricians working one day and now one another day. Buying
the Balmar plug
and play regulator would have easily saved its addional cost of $ 200. What do you think? I very much appreciate your expert opinion.
Could you please take one look at our regulator connections:
Yellow Reg wire to to red engine panel + wire. (When the engine is running this shows full voltage 13.2 to 14.3)
White (Sterling manual: "should be connected to field wire you fitted earlier"... As you told me, we did not fit that soldered wire to a brush). So we connected it to Balmar "external field wire Blue". Wrong?
Brown: To another 12 V source (now 13.2 V), not yet switched. Install a switch and light?
Black: Ground at alternator
Red:to "Both" on the rotary master battery control switch.