Step down transformer

[Markhunter1097]

I have a 240 to 110, 50 amp step down transformer installed by the po in an area that got wet. It still works perfectly, but I’m wondering how must the rusting has compromised it.
It also weights approx 50 kgs!

[Mr B]

Originally Posted by Markhunter1097

I have a 240 to 110, 50 amp step down transformer installed by the po in an area that got wet. It still works perfectly, but I’m wondering how must the rusting has compromised it.
It also weights approx 50 kgs!

Attachment 216933Attachment 216934Attachment 216935

They are $50-00 AUD Brand new on Ebay, Delivered, I have one on my boat,
It runs my 110 volt fridge, from a 240 volt Invertor,

[Markhunter1097]

Thx Mr B, that wouldn’t be large enough for me, mine is 50 amp, or 12000 watts. I think yours is much smaller.
I can run two air conditioners off it, not that I do,but that is the capacity

[Mr B]

Originally Posted by Markhunter1097

Thx Mr B, that wouldn’t be large enough for me, mine is 50 amp, or 12000 watts. I think yours is much smaller.
I can run two air conditioners off it, not that I do,but that is the capacity

It was just a heads up for you, They do have bigger ones for sale,
I have a 10 KVA one in my RV,

[Markhunter1097]

That said though, I’m only plugging in a 15 amp shore power lead, so maybe I don’t need a step down transformer that is rated to 50 amps.

[Markhunter1097]

For those interested, after much research on isolated transformers and auto transformers, I am now much smarter and know that I know nothing about electricity.
Am going with an 3600w isolated transformer from Victron, safety and simplicity won over cost.

[Bill O]

Mark,
Nice to see you are still making progress on your boat. Was that a simple 240 to 110 step down (all 60hz) or did you need to do the 50 to 60hz also?

We picked up a cheap 230 50/60hz to 110 60Hz in a plastic case that sits outside and plugs into the boats external AC inlet. Its for limited use if we ever plug into a European wired marina.

[Markhunter1097]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Mark,
Nice to see you are still making progress on your boat. Was that a simple 240 to 110 step down (all 60hz) or did you need to do the 50 to 60hz also?

We picked up a cheap 230 50/60hz to 110 60Hz in a plastic case that sits outside and plugs into the boats external AC inlet. Its for limited use if we ever plug into a European wired marina.

Gidday Bill O, The Victron manual just stated 50/60 hz, so I assume that the unit can handle the difference. Will let you know once installed.

Boat progress, Ha, the job list only grows, no matter how many you do.
The current spate of electrical work was bought on by tight steering.

Steering was getting stiff, so I figured I should sort it out, found a top dodge pillow bearing that should have had a grease nipple attached, but didn't, and an ugly looking packing bearing lower down.
Once in the lazarette, I also noticed the plywood boards in the locker were delaminating and dropping paint chips everywhere, as well as very bad flowcoat on the hull.
So boards went home for loving, epoxy and paint, new flowcoat inside the hull, clean out all old crap and paint chips.
Then installed new grease nipple, fill with grease, employ mechanic to change shaft packing, the old stuff was actually perfect!
Turns out the mechanic was selling his new 2000 inverter for 1/2 price.
Always wanted one of those.
Upon investigating installing new inverter, I find rusted transformer

I am not putting the new Victron unit where the old transformer was just in case it gets wet again, so am working out how to attach to the hull, it weighs 20 kgs too!
Think I'll be using my old fiberglassing skills and mount a board to screw the unit to.
And thus the job list continues!

Steering is good now.

[CharlieJ]

Post #8
In lieu of using epoxy or polyester resin to attach the deadwood to the hull, I use 3M 5200 Fast Cure. I prepare the deadwood with paint or by hot coating with polyester resin thinned with styrene, clean the mounting position on the hull wit solvent, dab 5200 FC on the corners of the deadwood, apply hot glue, hold deadwood in place until the hot glue goes solid, come back the next day and hang stuff on the deadwood.

[Bill O]

Mark,
Aren't old boats fun to work on, you never know what you will find! Glad you were able to fix your steering, as it is somewhat essential.

For good or bad, when we purchased our boat it was pretty much stripped out of old wiring and electronics, so less surprises to find later.

We've been working w/HDU board (Coosa) to replace plywood as it will never rot and is lighter weight. A bit expensive, but beats having to go back for repair work later.

For hanging the transformer a good 3/4" ply is the way to go and Charlie's recommendation of using the 5200 (fast set) would be the way to go to hang that beast of a transformer on the hull.

We've been trying to stay away from heavy AC usage items on the boat and expanding our solar, etc. so we rarely need to plug in at the dock.

[CharlieJ]

@Bill O #10
Coosa board has some very good characteristics, screw pull out strength is not one of them.

I used Coosa in a 44' power cat conversion from diesel to Torqeedo electric. The plan was to 5200 FC Coosa board around engineroom bulkheads to mount all of the equipment. Before we started, I took a piece of ¾" thick Coosa, drilled a ⅛" pilot hole and drove a #10 self tapping screw through the Coosa, leaving the about ¼" protruding. Put the Coosa in a vice, took a pair of vice grips and pulled on the self tapping screw. It did not take a lot of effort to pull the screw out.

Plan B. I laid out all of the equipment's mounting holes, through drilled the Coosa and inserted Tee nuts https://tinyurl.com/yapwg2rg. Hung the equipment and have had no problems.

[Bill O]

Originally Posted by CharlieJ

@Bill O #10
Coosa board has some very good characteristics, screw pull out strength is not one of them.

Plan B. I laid out all of the equipment's mounting holes, through drilled the Coosa and inserted Tee nuts https://tinyurl.com/yapwg2rg. Hung the equipment and have had no problems.

Yep, totally agree and this negative characteristic is well known. The only time I shoot screws in "neat" is to secure the pieces when using the expanding urethane glue or thickened epoxy to bond them together. Then I'll remove the screws once set up.

Have used thru bolts w/backing plates, if you can get behind it or used the T nuts similar to what you linked. if you can't behind it.