Solar panels with MPPT controller and 2 battery banks

[smac999]

Originally Posted by rebel heart

If you do go the ACR route, I suppose you could just have two. One to sit between house and starter, and the other between house and windlass.

not with a small cable running to the front. the echocharger would be the better choice for the winlass. the acr can't limit current to the windlass battery.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by smac999

the acr can't limit current to the windlass battery.

there is a now-discontinued Blue Sea ACR designed for exactly that purpose, current limited to 60A, light gauge wire over distance NP.

They come up on eBay sometimes around $40

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by smac999

I have no idea what you mean by a duo alternator. I have never seen an atlernator that can charge 2 battery banks.

not so uncommon, seen plenty of LN alts designed like that

I'm looking to create a DC genset based off a C.E.N. alt that puts out 400+A @24V and 50A @ 12V, regulated seperately.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by smac999

it's voltage output is not changeable. you' have to look at the specs. likly lower then a house battery by a bit.

Echo Charger is voltage following, output is 0.4V lower than input, single sense, one direction only.

Output voltage is capped at 14.4V, so equalizing the House bank won't affect the target batt.

[lifemiles]

kevins: pulling the chain in manually might be ok when all is fine, but what if you are dragging anchor in a feisty storm ? i'd definitely ensure anchorwinch works, even if if means pulling new cables or redesigning the setup.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by kevins

I will look at the blue sea ACR as well as the echo charger.

If anyone knows, I want to charge my house to 14.8v and the secondary source to 14.4v...will either one do that?

See above

Looks like Echo Charge is a good solution if 15A charge rate is enough for you.

Personally, I'd rather consolidate to one bigger House bank if at all doable to feed the windlass off that, even if the heavy wire costs more than the batt.

A LVD could be used to isolate two sub-banks to handle unusual circumstances, but keep it combined as one big bank for day-to-day usage, higher total capacity, less dead lead weight, shallower cycling, longer lifespan.

But yes, less conventional, perhaps some higher risk of failure.

[Privilege]

As mentioned previously on this thread, Voltage Sensitive Relays or ACR's will work for your set up. You can have one between the house bank and the starter battery and another one between the windlass battery and one of the others. This will fully automate your charging regime ensuring that the house bank gets first priority. They are very easy to set up.

The problem with the windlass battery is this...You have two basic options to power your windlass; have a separate battery close to the windlass (which requires recharging) or run your windlass from your house bank. The problem with plan B is that the windlass is always a long way from your house bank so requires huge cable to accommodate a long run of high amperage.

The windlass is a high current draw item so it quickly runs your battery down so even if you have a separate battery close by, it will sometimes accept high amperage to recharge...which takes us back to the issue of requiring decent sized cables. The easiest way around this is to use an Echo charge. It effectively does the same as a VSR or ACR but limits the current. This way, you can have a windlass battery and you only need cable sufficiently sized to accept 15amps between the battery and one of your other banks.

https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-82-01.../dp/B0016G8RT8

In summary, my advice would be to use use a VSR or ACR between your house bank and starter battery and an echo charge between your starter battery and windlass battery.

[doctorvolden]

Originally Posted by john61ct

If you are seeking advice, probably best to start a new thread, give specific details on your setup with links.

You should consolidate all House to one big bank, not make a separate one for just the Inverter.

LVDs can handle cutting off non essential loads earlier.

Research Peukert's effect.

Sorry if I seem to need help, I was just trying to help give advice.
You don't want a huge battery bank, most chargers don't like charging banks with more that 600aH. Charge time would take a long time.
Having dedicated systems means you should always have power for electronics/navigation and powering home. That's the way I was taught and it seems like

We have a 120amp alternator going through a divi charger to charge all banks. We don't want that annoying latching and unlatching of the ACR solenoid when voltages are low on 1 bank.

[sailorchic34]

I used a mascot 2amp dc to dc 3 stage 14.6v output, waterproof battery charger to charge my windlass battery (group 27). I have an ideal 1200 watt windlass (100amp). Typical charge time after a single hoist (75 feet) is less then 2 hours to float. It has a three color remote led light to show which stage it's in.

Found it on ebay for about $10 last year. I think they normally go for $150 ish, (probably discontinued now), but works great. For a start battery or windlass battery, a 2 amp dc to dc charger is really all you need.

Mascot.no - Model 2544

Added bonus, I fed it from the 15amp dc circuit that serves the v-berth so no extra wire runs required. I have it on a switch that I turn on before hoisting and turn off after the led (visible from the salon) goes green/float).

[daletournier]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

I used a mascot 2amp dc to dc 3 stage 14.6v output, waterproof battery charger to charge my windlass battery (group 27). I have an ideal 1200 watt windlass (100amp). Typical charge time after a single hoist (75 feet) is less then 2 hours to float. It has a three color remote led light to show which stage it's in.

Found it on ebay for about $10 last year. I think they normally go for $150 ish, (probably discontinued now), but works great. For a start battery or windlass battery, a 2 amp dc to dc charger is really all you need.

Mascot.no - Model 2544

Added bonus, I fed it from the 15amp dc circuit that serves the v-berth so no extra wire runs required. I have it on a switch that I turn on before hoisting and turn off after the led (visible from the salon) goes green/float).

I find things like this on the forum that would never cross my mind. Very simple and easy.