Solar Panels have Voltage but no Current Output.

[jseas]

I have two Kyocera 110w panels that both show 19.5v open circuit voltage (spec is 21v), but very little if any current. I have connected another type of panel that shows good voltage and current. I just can't believe both of these panels went out at same time. Can diodes in the junction box cause this? These where used panels and I am pretty sure that I have them connected correctly. Take a look at the photo.

So I guess my question is, if these panels are at their end if life would low current be the indicator?



Thanks!


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[jseas]

I should add that battery is not fully charged so current should be flowing.


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[socaldmax]

Forgive me for asking, I don't know your level of electrical experience.

How did you measure for current?

[jseas]

The charger display and an inline meter. Both showed the same around .18 Amps from both panels in parallel. Then connected inline at each panel and got .20 and .00.

This is my inline meter. It has been very accurate.

http://www.amazon.com/iMeshbean®-Pre...rds=Watt+meter




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[Summitfun]

Any chance you have access an ohm meter? You can check the diodes individually by removing them, and placing the + lead on the black diode end & the - lead on the striped end. you should have current flow. Reverse the leads & it should show open - no flow.
You may be able to disconnect the panel leads & put the positive meter lead on the + terminal of your box & the negative lead on the - terminal, & check as above. Entering "Diode Flow" into Google will give you a good explanation.
Mike

[roetter]

Originally Posted by jseas

The charger display and an inline meter. Both showed the same around .18 Amps from both panels in parallel. Then connected inline at each panel and got .20 and .00.
...

Are all panels going to the same charger? Could be that the charger(s) are bad. Connect the panels directly to the batteries - one at a time - and keep you meter in-line to see what the deliver. You should see over 5A with decent sun.

[jseas]

Yes I tried direct to battery also. Same thing.


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[jseas]

I have found a wiring diagram and I am connected correctly. It has to be something stupid. I'll rewire with new mc4 connectors.


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[contrail]

The fact that you got .00 on one panel makes me suspicious of your instruments or technique. You can't have voltage without at least some current. It's kind of like saying you have water pressure without any water. There must be some resistance somewhere.

[jseas]

I connected one of my 50w flexible panels the exact same way as the kyocera with the same meter in line and got 2.5 amps and 18v....which is exactly what they are rated. The only variable is the wiring and connectors into the kyocera junction boxes.




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[socaldmax]

Originally Posted by contrail

The fact that you got .00 on one panel makes me suspicious of your instruments or technique. You can't have voltage without at least some current. It's kind of like saying you have water pressure without any water. There must be some resistance somewhere.

It's very common to have voltage with no current flow. If there's an open in the circuit, then you're reading Voc.

[socaldmax]

Originally Posted by jseas

I connected one of my 50w flexible panels the exact same way as the kyocera with the same meter in line and got 2.5 amps and 18v....which is exactly what they are rated. The only variable is the wiring and connectors into the kyocera junction boxes.




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It's really looking like the problem is in the connection box, possibly the diodes are bad.

You could jumper past one set of diodes, then the other, then both to determine if any or all of the diodes are bad.

[MBWhite]

Instead of using a meter, you could use a load like a 12 volt fan and start by touching the wires to the teminals on the back of the panels themselves. If the fan whirrs merrily away, just start testing the connections farther and farther away from the panels to see where the break in the path is.

[jseas]

All cabling up to the mc4 connectors and pigtails going into the junction boxes have tested good. So it has to be either the connector, pigtail, diodes, or bad panel. I'm going to pull the panels and setup a test bench at home.


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[CharlieJ]

If the fuse/circuit breaker at your battery is ok, check the continuity from the junction box to the line side MC-4 connector. If it is good, then check the continuity from the load side MC-4 connector to the input to the controller. If it is good, check the continuity from the output of the controller to the line side of the fuse/circuit breaker at your battery.