Smart regulator interfering with Volvo Penta motormanagement?

[CarinaPDX]

Several regulators can optionally sense current, which is to say they can measure the voltage across a shunt (resistor) and then calculate the current and act on the results. It is a matter of locating the shunt in the proper location as much as anything else. The Wakespeed WS-500 can do current sense with N-type alternators as well (this is an evolution of the OpenRegulator project).

An option with the SeaLithium regulator is to hook up a relay on one of the field wires to provide an emergency shutoff. Is it possible to intercept one of the wires coming off a brush, under the plastic cover? How easy would that be?

Greg

[HenrikB]

Originally Posted by areddon

Wish I had know of this product before modifying my alternator.

More interesting than the "plug and play" aspect is the assertion that it will terminate absorption based on current. If this device can sense ACTUAL current to battery, net of loads, and hold the alternator in absorption until 0.5% of capacity that is quite an important development in this price range. Not sure there is another regulator that makes decisions based on actual current into bank.

This is exactly what the Mastervolt AlphaPro will do if connected to a Mastervolt current shunt. I have this setup and now completed fine tuning of charging parameters and integration with the Volvo MDI.
I changed the alternator for a Prestolite 240A, removed internal regulator to allow for the external Mastervolt.
Very simple integration both mechanical and electrical!
The shunt connected to regulator senses voltage and current and alternator temperature. Via PC-interface all parameters can be set!
I use alternator temperature parameter to manage maximum alternator current and belt slip.
All wiring to the existing Volvo MDI box is removed!
The MDI box senses voltage from the supply, so no problem with alarms due to no charge-lamp signal. RPM signal comes from flywheel sensor on CAN bus on the Volvo.
Reg-on signal is taken from the CAN-bus (cut into it and soldered a new wire to the 12V supply). The CAN-bus is only active when MDI is powered (when engine is running).

AlphaPro is set to Bulk charge to 14V, then absorbtion at 14V until current is less than 20A, or maximum time. Then float at 13.5V. Works very fine for my 600Ah lithium bank

[sliceoflife]

i have 2018 volvo penta d2 50F. intermittent battery alarm. misubishi 115a alternator internally regulated. 4 wires on alternator, b+,B-,d+(BROWN WIRE) and yellow sense wire. curious about your suggestion on relocating the brown wire from D+ to positive terminal on starter for 12v power supply, will this silence the alarms ?

Originally Posted by Edwin Curacao

Our engine is D2-55C from 2005 with saildrive 130S.

the workshop manual from 2006 for the d2-55 /D2-75 only have one wiring diagram for all engines.

If the brown wire receives 12v constant alarm will go off.

The balmar regulator should give the 12v+ out at dash source but is not giving in my case....

the balmar is far more modification than the mastervolt regulator in case of an N type regulator with diode trio.

here the pdf workshop manual I've found on the net
7742969w D2-55, D2-75 Workshop Manual

[silvercreek]

Originally Posted by sliceoflife

i have 2018 volvo penta d2 50F. intermittent battery alarm. misubishi 115a alternator internally regulated. 4 wires on alternator, b+,B-,d+(BROWN WIRE) and yellow sense wire. curious about your suggestion on relocating the brown wire from D+ to positive terminal on starter for 12v power supply, will this silence the alarms ?

I don't think so. I believe this will keep the MDI powered up, effectively making it impossible to turn off your ignition from the control panel.

The suggestions in this thread are for externally regulated alternators. If yours is factory unmodified, and you're getting charging alarms, there is likely something wrong.