Shore-power Main Disconnect Options (greater than 10 ft)

[GeoPowers]

What is everyone using in the situation where your Main AC breaker/panel is greater than 10 ft from the shore power inlet? For reference:

ABYC E-11.10.2.8.1.3: If the location of the main shore power disconnect circuit breaker is in excess of 10 feet (three meters) from the shore power inlet or the electrical attachment point of a permanently installed shore power cord, additional fuses or circuit breakers shall be provided within 10 feet (three meters) of the inlet or attachment point to the electrical system of the boat. Measurement is made along the conductors.

I had used a double pole, single switch breaker in a supposedly waterproof housing from Paneltronics:

Paneltronics :: Waterproof Main Disconnect

However, to make a dramatic story short I had a very slow leak from my cockpit shower line drip onto the disconnect assembly, water slowly worked its way in, caused a short, and caused a shitstorm. Fortunately I was on board to quickly isolate the electrical before a full on fire took place, but the disconnect assembly is completely melted. Amazingly and of great concern, the f- ing breaker didn't trip!

The Airpax breaker that came with the assembly is an internally coupled double pole breaker with one switch. The side without a switch was the side that had a burn-through. I'm no electrical guru, but this seems fishy to me.

The first step of course is to re-route the poorly designed cockpit shower lines so this can never happen again. Then, in light of all of the above I would love to source a double-pole, double-switch breaker in a quality housing suitable for installation in a lazerette.

Any input is appreciated!

Frank

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by GeoPowers

What is everyone using in the situation where your Main AC breaker/panel is greater than 10 ft from the shore power inlet? For reference:

ABYC E-11.10.2.8.1.3: If the location of the main shore power disconnect circuit breaker is in excess of 10 feet (three meters) from the shore power inlet or the electrical attachment point of a permanently installed shore power cord, additional fuses or circuit breakers shall be provided within 10 feet (three meters) of the inlet or attachment point to the electrical system of the boat. Measurement is made along the conductors.

I had used a double pole, single switch breaker in a supposedly waterproof housing from Paneltronics:

Paneltronics :: Waterproof Main Disconnect

However, to make a dramatic story short I had a very slow leak from my cockpit shower line drip onto the disconnect assembly, water slowly worked its way in, caused a short, and caused a shitstorm. Fortunately I was on board to quickly isolate the electrical before a full on fire took place, but the disconnect assembly is completely melted. Amazingly and of great concern, the f- ing breaker didn't trip!

The Airpax breaker that came with the assembly is an internally coupled double pole breaker with one switch. The side without a switch was the side that had a burn-through. I'm no electrical guru, but this seems fishy to me.

The first step of course is to re-route the poorly designed cockpit shower lines so this can never happen again. Then, in light of all of the above I would love to source a double-pole, double-switch breaker in a quality housing suitable for installation in a lazerette.

Any input is appreciated!

Frank

Most European boats , which have been using RCB for years , fit the breaker in a small waterproof , or often not so water proof enclosure,high up in the cockpit locker where the shore power lead boat socket is situated.

Dave

[FlyingCloud1937]

A vapor tight box, and drip shield come to mind, use vapor tight glands, and gasket front cover.

This is almost impossible.

I use a water Ip-x7 box and if it calls for it, I have my metal guy bend up a drip proof hood.

The hood requires a drip-rail, and all box entrances need drip loops.

The best you can do is to make sure it is installed, in a no drip situation.

If the boat floods, then you have done the best you can do.

Lloyd

Originally Posted by GeoPowers

What is everyone using in the situation where your Main AC breaker/panel is greater than 10 ft from the shore power inlet? For reference:

ABYC E-11.10.2.8.1.3: If the location of the main shore power disconnect circuit breaker is in excess of 10 feet (three meters) from the shore power inlet or the electrical attachment point of a permanently installed shore power cord, additional fuses or circuit breakers shall be provided within 10 feet (three meters) of the inlet or attachment point to the electrical system of the boat. Measurement is made along the conductors.

I had used a double pole, single switch breaker in a supposedly waterproof housing from Paneltronics:

Paneltronics :: Waterproof Main Disconnect

However, to make a dramatic story short I had a very slow leak from my cockpit shower line drip onto the disconnect assembly, water slowly worked its way in, caused a short, and caused a shitstorm. Fortunately I was on board to quickly isolate the electrical before a full on fire took place, but the disconnect assembly is completely melted. Amazingly and of great concern, the f- ing breaker didn't trip!

The Airpax breaker that came with the assembly is an internally coupled double pole breaker with one switch. The side without a switch was the side that had a burn-through. I'm no electrical guru, but this seems fishy to me.

The first step of course is to re-route the poorly designed cockpit shower lines so this can never happen again. Then, in light of all of the above I would love to source a double-pole, double-switch breaker in a quality housing suitable for installation in a lazerette.

Any input is appreciated!

Frank

[GeoPowers]

Thanks guys. I was hoping for specific products that others are using for the disconnect breaker and especially breaker housing. I've searched for a good while and have only came up with the Paneltronics product.

Frank

[GordMay]

Perhaps Hubbell #HBLCBINM (I don`t know)

Stylized non-metallic inlet housing; blank for attaching a circuit breaker
(not included). Mounting hardware for Carling series breakers included.
Page 11 ➥ http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/pdfs/H5263.pdf

[smac999]

I have used a marinco 3050bi before. holds a double pole breaker. put next to shore plug. not waterproof on the inside. but nor are the shore inlets.

(looks the same as the above hubbell one)

I think they used to make an SS one of these but I don't see it in there catalog.

sometimes the best way is to move the shore plug.

[mitiempo]

Blue Seas 3131 is an enclosure for a double pole breaker. Not totally waterproof but install in a dry location or install a drip shield above it with drip loops in the wires. Circuit Breaker Enclosure - Blue Sea Systems
Use this breaker AC Main 30A - Blue Sea Systems

[GeoPowers]

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. smac999, I agree with re-routing the shore power inlets might be the best textbook answer...just a pain to accomplish at this point. Today I re-ran the supply lines to the cockpit shower to prevent the potential for dripping on any electrical gear, and added secondary shutoff valves upstream under the port quarter berth so that I can actually isolate the supply lines from unconditioned spaces in the winter (this should have been done long ago...).

Regarding the main disconnect, while cleaning everything up I noticed that the housing for the other 30A shorepower inlet main disconnect was slightly deformed from the heat generated from the other nearby disconnect that failed. I also noticed that the breaker was emitting a faint hum, so I've decided to replace the whole thing with a Blue Sea Dual 30A ELCI Main Enclosure which will take the place of the two separate disconnects:

Surface Mount System (SMS) Enclosure - 120VAC ELCI 30A Dual - Blue Sea Systems

mitiempo, I found this one while looking at the enclosure you suggested, so thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

I also need to check that my galvanic isolator is functioning and get my Magnum MS-2012 charger/inverter back up, which has some fault codes, likely due to the spraying water since it wasn't on the affected circuit. I have a backup Xantrex running right now.

Thanks again for the suggestions for the disconnect.

Frank

[Colin A]

When we've done these in the past for customer we usually install a standard breaker and panel in a IP 67 enclosure with a cam latched seal and a thick gasket, also need to use good cable glands. We've used these in the past
ARCA | Fibox

We had one customer who used to request the breaker handle be exposed so we used Airpax milspec breakers pricey but pretty reliable. But the back side still needs to be sealed off with these.
http://airpax.sensata.com/pdfs/iag.pdf