Shore power cord set for Europe

[Howler]

A 50 ft, 30 amp Marinco cord set for N. America (110V / 60 Hz) costs under $100.

A 50 ft, 30 amp set for Europe (230V / 50 Hz) costs over $400!

From what I can tell, the only differences are the shoreside EU plug and a slightly different wire gauge: 10 AWG vs. 4 mm2.

Is there any downside of using a N. America cord set, and a replacement EU shoreside plug, which costs around $25?

I should mention that it’s for a European boat with 230V / 50 Hz devices (battery charger, water heater and outlets).

[admiralslater]

If you have 30 amp us look for 16 amp European that might help . As the wire is a larger gauge in us I don’t see why you should not be able to put new ends on it .

[ottow]

Indeed, a typical 1-phase shore power cord over here is 2.5mm2, rated at 16A continous.
I've never, ever seen a 30A 1-phase outlet in a marina, finding one would be like finding a unicorn.

Outlets are typically 1-phase from 6 up to 16A (230V), or 3-phase 16 or 32A (230/400V).

A typical 25m (80ft) 1-phase shore power cord is about $50 to $100 at any chandler's, depending on make and plug model.

[Howler]

Originally Posted by ottow

Indeed, a typical 1-phase shore power cord over here is 2.5mm2, rated at 16A continous.
I've never, ever seen a 30A 1-phase outlet in a marina, finding one would be like finding a unicorn.

Outlets are typically 1-phase from 6 up to 16A (230V), or 3-phase 16 or 32A (230/400V).

A typical 25m (80ft) 1-phase shore power cord is about $50 to $100 at any chandler's, depending on make and plug model.

Here’s what I’m trying to solve. When I ran a small space heater with a typical EU 16A 2.5mm cable on my last boat, it would intermittently trip the breaker at the shore outlet. I can’t explain it electrically, but when I replaced the cable with a thicker one, such as a 30A cable,, that problem subsided. I’m back to a typical 16A cable and the problem is occurring again. So I thought I’d try a higher gauge cable again. Does this make any sense?

[boatpoker]

Absolutely makes sense.

[smac999]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Absolutely makes sense.

no it doesn't...

[sailcrazy]

When we cruised the Medd (and Asia before that) the shorepower poles were either 16amp or 32amp; they used a different plug for each, just like a 30 amp vs a 50amp plug here in the US. But since you're carrying only 16 amps, you only need a cordset (wire) capable of 16amps. We used a standard extension cord with the special end for the power pole.....it worked fine, and is a lot less bulky. Our boat, too, is built for Asia/Europe, and wired for 230v, 50Hz, 3-wire power. The only issue we've had was when we sailed here to the Caribbean!

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Howler

Here’s what I’m trying to solve. When I ran a small space heater with a typical EU 16A 2.5mm cable on my last boat, it would intermittently trip the breaker at the shore outlet. I can’t explain it electrically, but when I replaced the cable with a thicker one, such as a 30A cable,, that problem subsided. I’m back to a typical 16A cable and the problem is occurring again. So I thought I’d try a higher gauge cable again. Does this make any sense?

Makes total sense. The heating element cannot get as hot due to voltage drop in the small cord. Heating elements resistance increases as they get hot. Running cooler they have less resistance and draw higher amps. Normally the inrush high current drops as the element gets hot. High induction loads also draw more current if they are under design voltage. Different reason, same results. An oversized cord never hurts and will reduce fire risk.

Our European ready boat has an isolation transformer. This converts all single phase 230-250 to two isolated 115 single phase for the boat. All AC devices we have are tolerant of 50-60 Hz.

[Howler]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

Makes total sense. The heating element cannot get as hot due to voltage drop in the small cord. Heating elements resistance increases as they get hot. Running cooler they have less resistance and draw higher amps. Normally the inrush high current drops as the element gets hot. High induction loads also draw more current if they are under design voltage. Different reason, same results. An oversized cord never hurts and will reduce fire risk.

Our European ready boat has an isolation transformer. This converts all single phase 230-250 to two isolated 115 single phase for the boat. All AC devices we have are tolerant of 50-60 Hz.

I think you nailed it on the head. Thanks.

[Howler]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

Makes total sense. The heating element cannot get as hot due to voltage drop in the small cord. Heating elements resistance increases as they get hot. Running cooler they have less resistance and draw higher amps. Normally the inrush high current drops as the element gets hot. High induction loads also draw more current if they are under design voltage. Different reason, same results. An oversized cord never hurts and will reduce fire risk.

Our European ready boat has an isolation transformer. This converts all single phase 230-250 to two isolated 115 single phase for the boat. All AC devices we have are tolerant of 50-60 Hz.

... And I recall the cable getting warm when this phenomenon occurred, which supports your point about a voltage drop in the small cord.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Howler

Here’s what I’m trying to solve. When I ran a small space heater with a typical EU 16A 2.5mm cable on my last boat, it would intermittently trip the breaker at the shore outlet. I can’t explain it electrically, but when I replaced the cable with a thicker one, such as a 30A cable,, that problem subsided. I’m back to a typical 16A cable and the problem is occurring again. So I thought I’d try a higher gauge cable again. Does this make any sense?

I think your experiencing line lose. Google rated amperage for wire gauge and length. I'm an advocate of the larger the gauge the better.

[tarian]

Originally Posted by smac999

no it doesn't...

Agreed it is not the cable it is a fault with your space heater you say it is small therefore it should never draw 16amps and if you need 30 amps then the heater can go bang 16amp 1 phase is common in all campsites and marinas in the UK and I can run a fan heater water heater battery charger electronics all at once no trips or it it's a fault at the marina side 30amps is over kill unless your pulling some serious power

[SV Bacchus]

Originally Posted by Cadence

I think your experiencing line lose. Google rated amperage for wire gauge and length. I'm an advocate of the larger the gauge the better.

Me too..

[Auspicious]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

Makes total sense. The heating element cannot get as hot due to voltage drop in the small cord. Heating elements resistance increases as they get hot. Running cooler they have less resistance and draw higher amps. Normally the inrush high current drops as the element gets hot. High induction loads also draw more current if they are under design voltage. Different reason, same results. An oversized cord never hurts and will reduce fire risk.

There is something wrong here. I-squared-R is power loss (i.e. heat) in a conductor. That's why 220V 16A cords are smaller than 117V 30A cords.



"Running cooler they have less resistance and draw higher amps" makes no sense at all.



Bigger conductors are not bad per se but not necessary for 220V 16A.



If you had a voltage drop of substance different between 220V and 117V there was something else wrong. Longer docks, poorly installed end connectors ... something. An IR thermometer and a voltmeter should have nailed that down pretty fast.

[paul2884]

Originally Posted by Howler

I think you nailed it on the head. Thanks.

In principle correct but a bit oversimplified, it doesn't work quite like that or you could just drop the voltage to make the kettle boil quicker, say use a 230v kettle in the US on 110v think how good that would be......

Your main problem with the larger cable will be safely terminating it in a 16a plug, some makes of plug will take it most dont. The idea of just stripping the outer sheath off and leaving the insulated cores showing isnt very safe but is quite common with imported motor boats imported from the US.