Request to Inspect my new Wiring.

[Jolly Roger]

I have just finished re-configuring my boat batteries and added a battery in the bow to power the windlass. I have also finally wired up the KISS wind generator into the system.
The idea is that port or starboard banks can be isolated in the top switch, but can be combined through 2 into the bottom switch and join the windlass battery, to start the engine or generator as necessary.
There are three outputs from the main battery charger which are supposed to charge three separate battery banks as required, when isolated.
I’m only an amateur electrician, so I wonder if any experienced electrician could take a look at it all and offer any suggestions for improvements, or even just tell me it’s fine as it is.
Thanks in advance.

[donradcliffe]

Nice diagram, but...

The alternator output should run direct to a battery--otherwise you may fry it if someone plays with the switches while the engine is running.

The forward battery keeps both starter solenoids energized regardless of switch position--not a good idea.

[Jolly Roger]

Thanks for the quick response: So where should I best connect the alternator, and how to modify the wiring to the forward 12 volt windlass battery - which also acts as starter for the genny and engine?

[DeepFrz]

To make your life easier:
Keep the windlass battery completely separate, charge with either an echo charger or a small battery charger powered through the inverter.

Keep the house bank as one bank.

One extra starter battery charged through an echo charger or start both engine and gen. with the house bank.

[smac999]

why are you trying to start the engine and gen from a battery in the bow? how far away is it? probably a long run.

if it's not that far then move the engine battery, alternator, and charger to number one of bottom swtich. move wind gen to 1 or 2 of top swtich. then power the engine and gen from the com of bottom switch. move the dingy hoist to com of top switch.

put acr's between all 3 banks.

then normal running would be top swtich in both and bottom switch in 1. and could isolate the house if needed (but really isn't)

depending on the swtich, battery, and inverter locations you'd probably be better off running a cable direct from one of the house batteries to inverter with it's own switch to make it as sort as possible (a 1400w inverter with 2/0 should be within ~10 feet of wire of the battery)

make sure everything is fused properly. there is no fuses in this diagram.

you need to watch for the daisy chaining grounds. not the best way to do it. your neg path from the "start" battery to the gen looks super long. like 2x the lenth of the boat.

[Jolly Roger]

Thanks everyone for these suggestions, but I can’t say I understand them all.
I should have mentioned: I’ve been restoring the boat in Titusville marina for three years, nearly always on shore power, and only just begun to look closely at the batteries and wiring setup. It was pretty much like this when I got it, and I haven’t changed it much except to introduce the windlass battery. It didn’t have an electric winch and my new Maxwell didn’t work very powerfully due to the long run, now it fairly sizzles.
Can I ask these follow up questions?

The alternator output should run direct to a battery--otherwise you may fry it if someone plays with the switches while the engine is running.
I understand this can happen, but the alternator output is always connected to the windlass battery via ‘both’ on the bottom switch—isn’t it?

The forward battery keeps both starter solenoids energized regardless of switch position--not a good idea.
Aren’t solenoids energized all the time anyway? Or do you mean that I’ve got two on the same line?

Keep the windlass battery completely separate, charge with either an echo charger or a small battery charger powered through the inverter.
I was actually thinking of buying another big 12 volt battery and making it a dedicated engine start. (I have a space right next to the engine where the lead would be less than three feet). I could then remove the long lead between the two solenoids and start the generator from the windlass battery, keeping it charged with a separate charger?

put acr's between all 3 banks. Sorry to sound thick, but what are acr’s?

Keep the house bank as one bank. I’m not sure what you mean here. Are you saying to join both port and stb’d banks together?

make sure everything is fused properly. there is no fuses in this diagram.
Where should I install fuses, and what type and size. There were none when I bought the boat.

you need to watch for the daisy chaining grounds. not the best way to do it. your neg path from the "start" battery to the gen looks super long. like 2x the length of the boat.
The negative from the windlass battery to the engine, through the port side house bank is about 30 feet, all 2/0 cable. By the way, there are no signs of corrosion on any of the battery terminals.