Question for Electrical Geniuses -- Multipole Switch

[Dsanduril]

Well, that wiggling "fixes" things for a short while does point to one set of contacts in the rotary switch.

I assume you've seen this document, maybe even the source of your schematic? Page 15 provides a bit more detail about the wiring of the Dreefs and the all the other devices it controls. I haven't had time to digest it, but like Wotname maybe after a cup of coffee....

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

Well, that wiggling "fixes" things for a short while does point to one set of contacts in the rotary switch.

I assume you've seen this document, maybe even the source of your schematic? Page 15 provides a bit more detail about the wiring of the Dreefs and the all the other devices it controls. I haven't had time to digest it, but like Wotname maybe after a cup of coffee....

Yes, that's where I took the schematic from!


Thanks for your help!

[StoneCrab]

Here are a couple of links to contact cleaner and lubricants that might help you. Your comment that wiggling the switch sometimes restored operation makes me think that you may have some corrosion or pitting on the contacts of the switch. If it is possible to get the fluid inside of the switch, it might be worth trying a cleaner. Obviously no guarantee but it is low hanging fruit if it works.

I recently replaced a temperature switch on a dryer for a friend, so I don't disagree with the other posts who suggest that those may be the culprit. These temperature switches are such a frequent replacement item on some brands that the parts guy asked me if that was what I was after as soon as I told him the model. Some are self re-settable but others are done if they are tripped. Fortunately, a test lead with alligator clips can test whether the temperature switch is the problem by by-passing them.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/...SktjZWVUIn0%3D

https://www.radioshack.com/products/...SktjZWVUIn0%3D

https://www.radioshack.com/products/...SktjZWVUIn0%3D

[Cadence]

There is aerosol contact cleaner. If it is or isn't the rotary switch, it probably wouldn't hurt to dill a small hole and mist it, since you said getting into it would destroy it.

[Dsanduril]

Well, since it appears to involve all power, and even though things work in wash mode, I'd probably start with jumpering around 1-1a and then 2-2a. Both of those carry full power for the machine. The heater element is 2000W, can't tell about the water heat element. So maybe even though the same contacts are used for wash and dry they just can't handle the dry load anymore.

After that, I'd probably just try jumping around each of the other sets of contacts in order.

Presuming, of course, that you've already tested resistance for each set of contacts and not found anything unusual.

[eclavoie]

Not knowing what the physical switch looks like, it appears there is only a 1 wire difference between the "Normal" selection and the one above it (Trockman Schonend???) . You might simply jumper, or move, this one connection on the switch itself reprogramming the switch and use this new selection with fresh contact surfaces and get the same action.

[Keithward]

No genious here but looks like you have overflow shut offs
Would be a shame to sink because w/d malfunctioned.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Keithward

No genious here but looks like you have overflow shut offs
Would be a shame to sink because w/d malfunctioned.

Well, you can't sink because of a fresh water leak. Think about it

[betwys1]

[QUOTE=Dockhead;3136229]My boat was built with a Eumenia/Eudora EU457 washer/dryer. The cabinets in the passage cabin were specially built to accomodate it.

/snip/ HOWEVER -- one component has failed, which is not available anymore.


It's a complicated rotary switch. The contacts which run the dryer are burned or worn. The schematic of the switch is like this:


Attachment 214728

If you want help - from geniuses or journeymen - you need to describe symptoms - not your judgment that a stepper switch has failed.
If you were doing an ordinary wash / dry, at what point exactly does the washer/drier fail? Does the switch step on as usual. does it stop stepping? What do you think it should be doing at the point it stops? Any odd sounds or noises? ...like that. You would be a lot happier with the feedback if you would just describe symptoms.

Regards
Brian W

[Dsanduril]

But he did describe the symptoms (took a couple of iterations), did you read the thread?

• Yes, drum does not spin when it fails.
• But I don't have any issues in wash mode, so could it be that switch?
• Behavior is identical, low dry and high dry.
• Usually the dry cycle will start, but then it fails. Fails like power cut to the machine. Once there was a burning smell -- I guess the switch contacts.
• YES, I always use the washer heater element, and no problems with that. Even Kochwäsche -- boiling hot. No issues.
• OK, maybe, but wiggling the switch makes it come on again. Isn't that strong evidence that it's the switch?
• Also, this is not the first problem I had with that switch. The main power feed contact burned out a couple of years ago. I successfully wired around that with a toggle switch.

Put that all together and it seems to point to a bad set of contacts in the rotary switch that carry the full 2kW load of the dryer element. Those include 1-1a, 2-2a, 4-4a, 9-9a. There are also a couple of temperature switches and a neutral leg switch that also carry that full load, but the "wiggling" correction points (albeit not 100% conclusively) to the object being wiggled.

[betwys1]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

But he did describe the symptoms (took a couple of iterations), did you read the thread?

• Yes, drum does not spin when it fails.
• But I don't have any issues in wash mode, so could it be that switch?
• Behavior is identical, low dry and high dry.
• Usually the dry cycle will start, but then it fails. Fails like power cut to the machine. Once there was a burning smell -- I guess the switch contacts.
• YES, I always use the washer heater element, and no problems with that. Even Kochwäsche -- boiling hot. No issues.
• OK, maybe, but wiggling the switch makes it come on again. Isn't that strong evidence that it's the switch?
• Also, this is not the first problem I had with that switch. The main power feed contact burned out a couple of years ago. I successfully wired around that with a toggle switch.

Put that all together and it seems to point to a bad set of contacts in the rotary switch that carry the full 2kW load of the dryer element. Those include 1-1a, 2-2a, 4-4a, 9-9a. There are also a couple of temperature switches and a neutral leg switch that also carry that full load, but the "wiggling" correction points (albeit not 100% conclusively) to the object being wiggled.

Better truffle hound than me, evidently. But there would be no hindrance to drum spinning with no heating. The safety mode is no heating UNLESS the drum is spinning, surely?

Brian W

[betwys1]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

My boat was built with a Eumenia/Eudora EU457 washer/dryer. The cabinets in the passage cabin were specially built to accomodate it.


As my boat is going on 19 years old, and I've spend significant stretches living on board during my almost 11 years of ownership, this device is getting a bit long in the tooth. I would love to replace it with something new and of more modern design (with heat pump dryer for example? which uses less water?) but it's impossible without rebuilding those cabinets which would cost a fortune.


And anyway the Eudora is actually a fantastic machine -- super heavy duty, has been nearly flawless all these years, and I guess will last a few years more. HOWEVER -- one component has failed, which is not available anymore.


It's a complicated rotary switch. The contacts which run the dryer are burned or worn. The schematic of the switch is like this:


Attachment 214728


I would have thought that I could just transfer the dryer functions to a different rotary switch, but I don't really understand what connects what together here. I would only need to do "Trocknen Normal" -- normal dry, the last line in the schematic.



How to read this schematic? An "x" means the numbered terminal plus its corresponding "a" are connected? Or what? So that on "Trocknen Normal", there would be connections made between 1 and 1a, 2 and 2a, 3 and 3a, etc., or what?





Attachment 214731

There are four switches used only by the drier, which according to a responder is what failed. These are 9,10,11, 12 and 14
In particular contact 14 connects motor EM2 on the dry cycle

Brian W