Progress on custom control panels

[s/v Jedi]

Here’s some pictures that show the ceiling mounted console that will hold all the custom panels.

After receiving the first custom panel and getting used to the accuracy of CAD, I went ahead and made a router template to cut the openings. Next step is mounting DIN rails, busbars etc. inside before final finish coat of paint and installation aboard.

This console hinges in the back so that the front comes down from the ceiling, providing access for maintenance. It’s a bit like an overhead compartment in an airliner

[Apollo19.5]

Should come up looking very neat

[goboatingnow]

Very nice

[goboatingnow]

Looks like an old 747 engineers 4th seat console. You can’t have enough switches gauges and leds on a boat , love it

[s/v Jedi]

DIN rails and busbars get mounted

[tanglewood]

Looks great. Did you use the separate covered bus bars instead of jumpered DIN blocks because of current carrying capacity? Or some other reason?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by tanglewood

Looks great. Did you use the separate covered bus bars instead of jumpered DIN blocks because of current carrying capacity? Or some other reason?

Yes, the terminal blocks don’t have the amp rating I wanted and take up too much space. These busbars are overkill (150A I think) but as it’s 240V I liked the covers and the dual busbar design is efficient.

[s/v Jedi]

Final coat of paint. I think it looks great… maybe even too good for the rest haha

[goboatingnow]

What’s the paint you’re using ?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

What’s the paint you’re using ?

Last year I spent weeks on finding a paint system that I like for the interior. I ended up with a 3 coat system, with sanding between every coat:

- Prep with sanding at 320 grit (this is all smooth plywood or epoxy fairing compound), then blow off with compressed air and wash with denatured alcohol.

- First coat is TotalBoat 1-part primer, followed by sanding, vacuuming, brushing/blowing and alcohol wiping until nothing comes off anymore.

- Second coat is Rustoleum oil based paint, Satin white, unthinned, followed by the sanding/cleaning but now an extra alcohol wipe as well as a quick tack cloth just before the final coat goes on.

- Third coat is the same Rustoleum with 5% Flood Penetrol added.

It’s all in the prep. White Rustoleum, as well as the primer, can be rolled on using a high density foam mini roller 4” or 6”. You get air bubbles but don’t need to tip it with a brush because the bubbles disappear by themselves.

Interestingly, I tested with 4 other paints incl. much more expensive ones and the Rustoleum came out the winner. The satin white Wet Edge from TotalBoat didn’t cure over their primer and got send back. The Interlux Brightside required a flattering agent and also required tipping after rolling or you got thousands of bubbles. Pettit EasyPoxy is a paint I really like but it was a backup candidate as they only have a higher gloss level, semi-gloss available, which I find too glossy for the ceilings.

The Flood Penetrol also gives a little more gloss but I much preferred the results with it added so kept using it.

[goboatingnow]

Total boat is just a polyurethane isn’t it. ?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Total boat is just a polyurethane isn’t it. ?

Totalboat WetEdge, as well as the Pettit EasyPoxy and the Interlux Brightside are one part polyurethanes.

I think the failure to cure was for the satin paint only, although I have heard complaints about slow cure for the gloss paints as well. The satin didn’t cure at all: it dried but could be wiped off with alcohol.

Rustoleum is an oil modified alkyd enamel.