Originally Posted by Shrew
I would also consider materials used in manufacture as well as ignition protection. If you don't feel ignition protection is relevant because of diesel, I would still consider that marine versions are typically made with materials more resilient to the corrosion prevalent in salt
Shrew, while I wholeheartedly agree with you, for the cost of a marine alternator of that size, I can get two or three NEW automotive ones (and several used ones or a ton of rebuild
kits for same). As this is not my "ForeverBoat" I have no issue getting a cheap
automotive one, boxing up the marine "for the specific engine and amperage" alternator for emergencies and future owners, and gain some additional charging
capacity. I cannot imagine how poorly a 35 amp alternator is going to deal with my loads, but I don't see it charging batteries
and running a load of any real amount as I increase the house bank past the single
current battery (soon to be multiples as cash infusions allow), thus the thought about this generator.
I normally think as you do, though, go for better construction based upon the environment
and situation should things fail. Of course, this engine has the bonus of being capable of starting without use of the battery, but the hand crank is not terribly friendly with knuckles against that darned stairwell casing... The starter is far more hand-friendly. Again, more batteries are called for, again, increased charging capacity is called for, and as these few batteries for which I have room near full, the 35 is going to get awfully measly. Of course, maybe an 80 won't be a great deal better on a small bank, but it should be helpful when I get to four or so Series 27 sized batteries.
I agree with all others as well when it comes to LED technology. I fully intend to make use of that tech as I rewire in the next month or so, putting all LED throughout, to include signal lights on the mast
and stern, as well as within the cockpit
and cabin/berthing areas. I love the miserly consumption
rates of LEDs, and they run cool to boot with long life relative to incandescent lights. Additionally, I believe the fire risk to be lower with LEDs and there is far less opportunity for corrosion to kill them than there is for traditional RV automotive bulbs (I can tell, because the current bulbs and fixtures are all displaying corrosion!).
I was thinking additionally about my refrigeration
requirements, and the boat comes with a deep in-counter icebox
with drain. I think the original plan was for customers to put blocks of ice in there, and cans of "soda", etc. I am thinking that instead of a refrigerator
, I could actually get a small 12 volt (or 110v) countertop ice maker, and when the ice in the box melts to the point that it is not useful, I could make my own ice and drop it in there. I would have to make a suspension rack to hold food
out of the resultant pool that accumulates between draining sessions at the bottom of the box, but that would be minor inconvenience relative to the cost of keeping the dorm fridge running while not running the engine. I was also considering the potential of routing a copper recirculating line with a radiator at the top out of this "fridge," with a small fan on the bulkhead aft of this radiator, and a tiny 12v aquarium pump
circulating the water, like what is used on an aquarium. The line in the box would be copper, the line between that and the radiator would be rubber tubing (attempting to minimize condensate), and the radiator could be copper or aluminum
. The air blowing through it would act as the opposite of a car radiator. The thing could be as small as a transmission oil
cooler or less. I am sure I could locate one, or at worse, recycle one from a broken window AC unit someplace, which essentially this really becomes, minus the heat of a compressor
running on electricity to pressurize the coolant
That would give me fridge and light air conditioning
(of sorts) at sea, without the load of the normal air conditioner, the hassles of mounting that turkey
, and the risks of having the open companionway
to allow it to rest there when at sea or in port. This would make a good compromise on the fridge as well, as the ice maker would only have to be working now and then, not all the time. I would have to add additional insulation
around the icebox
and its lid, but that is minor relative to the space taken by the dorm refrigerator
and the cost and noise of boosting the power with engines and generators to get the supply high enough to run these items.
I have repeatedly been thinking about these solutions to my issues, and the more I consider them, the more I dislike the lost
space that comes with having a dorm fridge and window air conditioner unit bouncing around a rocking 27 foot Hunter
of this vintage. Thoughts?