kyocera Solar Panel Volts no Amps

[deepthought]

I have 2 kyocera 215 solar panels.

One of them is giving a voltage reading but no amps.

If I connect the 2 panels in series or parallel I see amps only from the working one.

I read somewhere that it could be a connection issue somewhere but if the panel is connected in series wouldnt I not see it then? Or would the working on still work?

Any other ideas or suggestions to test.

Thanks

[Zil]

I don't understand how, volts but not amps? Do you have it on a load?

[newhaul]

What is the voltage reading on the panel with no amp output

[deepthought]

Yes I dont understand how there can be voltage and no amps.

There is around 28-30v on each panel.

Only one of the panels seems to put out amps.

I connected them together and one at a time through an outback 80 mppt charge controller.

[senormechanico]

A high resistance connection (not completely open) in the defective one would still measure full open circuit voltage to a meter as the meter's input resistance is 11 million ohms. If you put even a very light load on it, the voltage will drop to almost zero.
Measure the panel with it disconnected from the controller.
Look for a corroded or loose connection on that panel or its wiring connectors.

[deepthought]

if the problem was corroded or loose connection shouldnt the 2nd panel not work when connected in series?

[senormechanico]

I agree. Open circuit would get full double voltage, but no amps.
Parallel would get voltage and current of one panel (and maybe slightly more current).
If it worked correctly, twice the amperage of one panel.

Something's fishy with the first post.

[deepthought]

If I connect the 2 panels in series I see the voltage double but the amp output is still of only one panel does not double or even go up half.

[deepthought]

Example:
Single Panels:
- Panel 1: 30v 8amps
- Panel 2: 30v 0amps

2 panels in parallel:
- 30v 8amps

2 panels in series:
- 60v 4amps

[newhaul]

OK check the panel with no amps is it actually thirty volts or is it higher when not hooked to anything.
It appears that you likely have a barely corroded or shorted connection and when you hook the panels in series the amps you see are due to the bypass diodes in the panels. Hard to diagnose from the better coast of the USA. Give mainsail a jingle he is on your coast.

[deepthought]

Ok I will see what the warranty coverage is before I dig out silicon they poured into the box and trying to fix my self, just thought maybe some one experienced this issue or had some other suggestions.

Currently in the Caribbean but thanks for the contact info.

Thanks everyone for the info.

[HankOnthewater]

As mentioned before, having voltage and no supply of current is often caused by connections with a medium to high resistance.

Maybe another way checking the panels without the controller is:
get a load, ie globe 24 Volt or even a 12 Volt one (but that may blow), and check if it lights up (when connecting to one panel output). If the globe lights up (or blows) then you have Voltage and Amps.

If you did the above with new wires directly from the panel, and you have Volts and Amps on each panel, then your existing wiring needs attention.
If you are still having problems than the fault is inside the control (junction) box or the panel itself. Is there a diode fitted in the control box? Check that diode or bypass that for such test.

Edit: I see that while I was writing this, previous posters referred to diodes as well.....

[deepthought]

Will try tomorrow connecting a 12/24v load directly and report. Unfortunately I cant get into the junction box as it is all silicone'd up right now (how it came). I am also not sure what kind of diode or if there is one in the junction box.

[deepthought]

Ok this is VERY strange to me.

I tested with the load test on the multi-meter (2amps) both panels.
I connected a LED light to the panel and it comes on.

I connected the panel back to the controller and nothing.
I then connected the LED and the controller and 2amps registered on the controller. I then pulled the LED out and immediately there was no more amps to the controller.

Any IDEAS?

[smac999]

What is the controller connected to after the led is removed? If nothing obviously there will be no current.