Jedi Basic 12/24V DC electrical system

[Steve_C]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Hi Harry, I just replaced the motor of my windlass with a 24V version which I got at a Black Friday sale at Defender. Totally worth it



I draw my diagrams with LucidChart. You can do some basic stuff for free with it to try it out. The component images are just captured from the web

How did you handle the switching relays for the windlass ? Do they needed to be changed for 24v? Or will they handle the change as-is?

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

I don't know why all boats do not wire their windlass in this way.



BTW, can you please confirm that the Blue Sea remote battery switch will work on the negative circuit.

Why not use a big dual pole relay. The ones for 4x4 winch’s are good for this

Also many windlasses are in effect totally isolated when not in use if they use reversing relays.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Steve_C

How did you handle the switching relays for the windlass ? Do they needed to be changed for 24v? Or will they handle the change as-is?

I actually bought a 24V solenoid module because mine was manufactured in 1993 and I had no spare… but you can simply put a small 24->12V converter next to it, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Conver...dDbGljaz10cnVl

I may still do that because I got a wireless remote that is 12V…

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Why not use a big dual pole relay. The ones for 4x4 winch’s are good for this

Also many windlasses are in effect totally isolated when not in use if they use reversing relays.

So that’s what sounds logical, right? When I look at my motor, all 3 terminals, so incl. the negative, are insulated. When I checked the housing, it was connected to negative! I found a green bonding wire responsible and removed it.

Then on another boat with another windlass, the same thing but no bonding wire. I don’t know how that worked but the metal was permanently connected to DC negative. So then, when you are anchored with the anchor into the seabed and the chain running over the chain wheel, you created a circuit because propshaft etc. are also connected to DC negative and at a different potential than the anchor down in the seabed.

After seeing this eat away an expensive stainless steel chain in weeks at a friend’s boat, I now make sure my chain does not touch any bonded metal when anchored and the big switch in the negative conductor makes sure.

Then there is another factor: we have had some emergency situations where I needed my windlass to run in seconds, no time to go down to turn a switch. With a remote switch you can add a switch in the cockpit, foredeck or wherever you want. Without this, I tend to keep the windlass powered just in case.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

So that’s what sounds logical, right? When I look at my motor, all 3 terminals, so incl. the negative, are insulated. When I checked the housing, it was connected to negative! I found a green bonding wire responsible and removed it.



Then on another boat with another windlass, the same thing but no bonding wire. I don’t know how that worked but the metal was permanently connected to DC negative. So then, when you are anchored with the anchor into the seabed and the chain running over the chain wheel, you created a circuit because propshaft etc. are also connected to DC negative and at a different potential than the anchor down in the seabed.



After seeing this eat away an expensive stainless steel chain in weeks at a friend’s boat, I now make sure my chain does not touch any bonded metal when anchored and the big switch in the negative conductor makes sure.



Then there is another factor: we have had some emergency situations where I needed my windlass to run in seconds, no time to go down to turn a switch. With a remote switch you can add a switch in the cockpit, foredeck or wherever you want. Without this, I tend to keep the windlass powered just in case.

Interesting , must test my Titan

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Interesting , must test my Titan

That friend with the chain eaten away: they had a 3V DC potential between anchor chain and bonded stanchions. He was sure his chain was perfectly fine 2 weeks earlier when he anchored there and now the 10mm chain lost 4mm in some links.