Improving Quality of DC Power to Electronics

[Patrick_DeepPlaya]

I have a 12vdc pc which has a wide range input but sometimes I get blue screens which I believe are related to voltage drops like when I use the windlass off the same battery bank and am running a bit low on that bank. I also am going to bringing aboard some additional ham radios and want to add a flexible power distribution.

The power distribution is pretty easy, something like a rig runner which basically allows you to have a series of Anderson pole based plugins available, each fused, I'd run them off a breaker.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm

In addition to that I'd like to have this part of my dc power be supported in someway against voltage drops, and to provide a more consistent voltage to these sensitive electronics.

Should I be putting a converter in front of this, or is there some other device which will condition the power and help with drops.

I'm not really sure what options I have and where to look next, so any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
-p

[twistedtree]

Maybe something like this

Magic 12/12-20 | Mastervolt Marine

[hellosailor]

Looks like a DC-DC converter, aka dc booster or buck booster. There are a couple on the market from various makers. Your ham radios will probably also appreciat ethem as they can ensure that you get `13.6v to the radios all the time, as many radios don't really like "12" volts.

Then there's also the question of why you'd be letting your battery bank get low. And it might pay to put a dedicated battery forward for the winch, so it isn't getting voltage drops from a remote battery bank.

[Viking Sailor]

IIRC Bill (btrayfors) has one installed on his boat. You might want to check with him about it's usefulness. I think he wired it with a by-pass switch in case it failed. Also, some of these devices have been known to generate RFI.

[conachair]

Haven't really ran it in anger yet but i used one of these..

Car PC DC-DC 160W 8V-28V Mini-ITX M2 ATX Power PSU 12V | eBay

Seems very good so far.

And RF quiet, so downloading weatherfaxes is fine.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by conachair

Haven't really ran it in anger yet but i used one of these..

Car PC DC-DC 160W 8V-28V Mini-ITX M2 ATX Power PSU 12V | eBay

Seems very good so far.

And RF quiet, so downloading weatherfaxes is fine.

this will be no good unless you have 24v power. you need a DC DC convertor that capable of Buck & Boost, ie step up as well as step down. Good output capacitors will help too. PCs now use multiphase DC switched mode ( upto 8 phases) to improve response time etc.

Dave

[conachair]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

this will be no good unless you have 24v power. you need a DC DC convertor that capable of Buck & Boost, ie step up as well as step down. Good output capacitors will help too. PCs now use multiphase DC switched mode ( upto 8 phases) to improve response time etc.

Dave

Haven't tested this to confirm but check the spec:

Minimum Input Operating. voltage
8V
Maximum input Operating voltage
28V (clamping will occur at 25-27V)
Deep-Discharge shutdown threshold
11.2V

From memory the deep discharge shutdown is a selectable option with some jumpers. The guy who recomended this route said he's never had any problems with shutdown when engine starting causes voltage drop.
Again, I haven't tested any of this, would be interesting to put it on a bench supply to see what happens for real. Mine's a mini itx so was a bit of a squeeze getting it in there. Works fine though, and very RF quiet. Though my computer draws less than 1a


Paddy

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by conachair

Haven't tested this to confirm but check the spec:

Minimum Input Operating. voltage
8V
Maximum input Operating voltage
28V (clamping will occur at 25-27V)
Deep-Discharge shutdown threshold
11.2V

From memory the deep discharge shutdown is a selectable option with some jumpers. The guy who recomended this route said he's never had any problems with shutdown when engine starting causes voltage drop.
Again, I haven't tested any of this, would be interesting to put it on a bench supply to see what happens for real. Mine's a mini itx so was a bit of a squeeze getting it in there. Works fine though, and very RF quiet. Though my computer draws less than 1a


Paddy

based on those specs it should be OK, Im just remembering, I think I have one of those somewhere in the gadget box ( well now more of a gadget garage according to my wife)

[BlueH20]

Your Dc Pc already has a Dc to Dc converter built into it, I think the lower voltage is 10v. You are describing a voltage drop when starting a motor load, So the voltage prob, is dropping out of perimeter on motor startup.

Your question is how to improve quality, So I assume you are not looking for a quicky fix, And you intend to add more electronics/load.

My advise add battery's, Some/more Solar panels would be nice too,,

In "Scottys" words We dun ave enough power Captain!

[Patrick_DeepPlaya]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

I do think a dc-dc converter or a dc booster ( has many brand names ) seems to be the way to go, seems like this is what a lot of hams use in their field day setups and home emergency setup configurations.

Just have to get one to the boat now!

-patrick
XE2/w7pea/mm
Chacala, Nayarit Mexico

[Mike Banks]

I have a simple solution for you. I use a separate battery for all instruments and radios, none of which are connected to the house battery bank. This radio battery is mounted clear of the engine room or the other battery bank. It does not need to be as large either. It is charged from the house bank charging system, but through a blocking diode, so no current can be drawn from this battery other than from the equipment connected to it. The diode cuts the volts by about half a volt or so.

If your vessel is ever in distress, you will be glad that the other batteries can be flat, but you will still be able to call for help.

[SSgtPitt]

Originally Posted by Mike Banks

I have a simple solution for you. I use a separate battery for all instruments and radios, none of which are connected to the house battery bank. This radio battery is mounted clear of the engine room or the other battery bank. It does not need to be as large either. It is charged from the house bank charging system, but through a blocking diode, so no current can be drawn from this battery other than from the equipment connected to it. The diode cuts the volts by about half a volt or so.

If your vessel is ever in distress, you will be glad that the other batteries can be flat, but you will still be able to call for help.

Mike, do you have reading materials / links / schematics for this setup? I have another space on my boat projects list I need to fill

[smac999]

If you get a dc-dc converter make sure you check the amp ratings of your ham radios. Ssbs draw up to 50a. 50a converters are pricy.

[Rapanui]

An alternative might be a large capacitor close to the outlets you want to protect which will store energy and tend to smooth out short term dips in supply. There are nice packaged v large ones up to 1 Farad 12v which are sold for the lunatics who fit those disco boom boxes in their vehicles. Worth a try as they are quite a reasonable price.

[AKA-None]

Originally Posted by Rapanui

An alternative might be a large capacitor close to the outlets you want to protect which will store energy and tend to smooth out short term dips in supply. There are nice packaged v large ones up to 1 Farad 12v which are sold for the lunatics who fit those disco boom boxes in their vehicles. Worth a try as they are quite a reasonable price.

I would exercise caution as a 1 farad capacitor can send you to the hospital or worse. That’s is a very large amount of stored energy.