I couldn't find a battery selector panel I liked so I built one!

[AHoy]

I am in the middle of updating & fixing the electrical mess that came with my boat. I decided to go ahead and replace the battery selector switches too. I looked at a few pre-made panels and they all seemed to have the same design of combining batteries but not giving an option to isolate a dead battery. I decided to go ahead and build my own and also combine the bilge pump controls in too. Here is the finished panel:



There are also photos from the build here if anyone is interested in seeing it: https://imgur.com/a/E8AHB

Let me know what you think!

[john61ct]

Beauty!

Which service cut you the panel?

[john61ct]

If House is off, does the 1+2 still combine for cranking?

Does the genny switch actually start it up, or just connect its starter to one of the banks?

Does the windlass have its own bank?

[AHoy]

I used a local sign shop who had a laser cutter. They did a great job for me!

If the house bank switch is off and the engine switch is on 1+2 only the engine battery would be in the circuit but it would be connected to the engine starter as well as the house loads.

The generator switch just disconnects the generator battery from the generator. To start it there is a separate control panel.

Currently the windlass is connected to a bow battery, the disconnect ties the bow battery to the house load. When that battery dies I am going to increase the size of the house load and eliminate the forward battery.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by AHoy

If the house bank switch is off and the engine switch is on 1+2 only the engine battery would be in the circuit but it would be connected to the engine starter as well as the house loads.

Sounds like that risks running Starter batt down just when it's the only one working?

But maybe only when another captain's got the helm.

Nice setup overall!

[Pizzazz]

The panel looks great and you should enjoy it as designed. My only issue is that it could be complicated to explain to a non boater how to work the boat. For example, my seven year old daughter.

I prefer a minimal number of switches and bundling where logical. I would have only one rotary switch. Both starting batteries to position 1, house battery to position 2, inverter permanently to position 2, solar charging to 1, alternator and generator charging to common. The windlass could be separate for bow as you suggest.

In your case, you need to think through all the combinations and move switches a couple of times a day. With the simpler setup I have described you leave the switch to position 2 and only move it to common when charging both batteries. I often fo for days without touching the switch. Plus, the bigger the battery banks the more efficient the discharge.

But I love the looks of yours.

[Bleemus]

That looks fantastic. I have supplied vinyl lettering for similar projects and you got a great result.

[MAC-A-TAC]

Looks good. Do you have a schematic to share??

[bcboomer]

Nicely done and, if I ever need a panel, it's a good example of a method.

Do you have easy access to the back to replace the in-line fuse if it blows?

[Cliff Meima]

I assume all four bilge pumps have their own in line float switches, not shown on the schematic, otherwise the pumps will be running constantly. Otherwise I see no problems.
nicely done.

[AHoy]

Originally Posted by bcboomer

Nicely done and, if I ever need a panel, it's a good example of a method.

Do you have easy access to the back to replace the in-line fuse if it blows?

Good question! I decided to use ATC (blade) fuses so I could minimize spares. I had originally wanted a panel mount fuse holder but could only find one for glass fuses. There is very easy access to the back of the panel though so I just went with the inline fuse holder.

[AHoy]

Originally Posted by Cliff Meima

I assume all four bilge pumps have their own in line float switches, not shown on the schematic, otherwise the pumps will be running constantly. Otherwise I see no problems.
nicely done.

You are right! The bilge pumps have their own little off/on/auto switches with separate floats near that actual pump. I decided to keep them instead of incorporating that into the panel so I can see the pump when I turn it on manually to make sure it's working. The breaker panel just feeds the power to them. I haven't finished all the wiring yet but I will also run a small gauge wire back from the bilge pump to the status LED so it will light up when the pump is on.

[TheThunderbird]

Why not aluminium panel?

I'd keep the bow battery on its own, maybe a lighter LiFePO

[moseriw]

Gratulations:
exactly how it should be done, Shrink hoses with glue and all ring connectors.
btw with the transparent shrink hoses you can insert cable numbers that are printed on an ordinary sheet of paper. The trick: the hose shrinks before the paper begins to burn and seals off oxigen.

[btrayfors]

Very nice job. Congratulations...it shows the planning and care.

Just be sure that there's an ANL or MRBF fuse somewhere between the batteries and the positive bus, so that you are compliant with the ABYC 5,000-ampere disconnect requirement (AIC).

Bill