How is possible?

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by squaw999

My appolgise-english is not my first language

No need to apologize. Your English is much better than I can do in most other languages.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by squaw999

I also measure direct output from solar panel =20 V and about 0.2 A.

How are you measuring this? Are the panels connected still to the charge controller? If there is a problem with the controller and it is not sending amps to the batteries then amps cannot come in from the panels.

[squaw999]

I disconect (-) wire from panel and connect multimeter between panel and charger. 1 panel was stil conected to the charger.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by squaw999

I disconect (-) wire from panel and connect multimeter between panel and charger. 1 panel was stil conected to the charger.

OK, if the charge controller is bad or bad connection between the controller and the batteries then this is not testing the panels. If amps are not going out of the controller to the batteries then amps cannot come into the controller from the panels.

Also if you disconnect the batteries this will not test the panels since again, no amps can go out of the controller.

[skipmac]

First, before anything else, are you 100% certain you have the wiring correct? Are the panels connected to the input terminals of the controller and the batteries to the output? Sure the wires are not crossed?

Have the panels worked before and now have stopped working or is this a new installation that has never worked before?

[squaw999]

How i can test panel ampers? I have one an old controller (8 A max.). I will discconect 1 panel and another panel connect to this old controller-and watch what will happened.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by squaw999

How i can test panel ampers? I have one an old controller (8 A max.). I will discconect 1 panel and another panel connect to this old controller-and watch what will happened.

My first thought, solar panels do not often go bad unless they are damaged in some way. I have to ask again, is this all a new installation or has this setup worked before in the past?

One way to test just the panels but first some questions.

1. What is the Voc (Open Circuit Voltage) or maximum voltage output of the panels without a controller?

2. What is the maximum amperage you can test with your meter? Most hand held meters are rated to a max of 10 amps but some are less.

If the Voc is 20V or less and your meter is rated to 10 amps you can perform a quick test to check the panels.

Disconnect one of the panels completely from the controller. Connect the negative from the panel directly to the battery. Connect one lead of the meter to the positive and the other to the battery. If the panel is getting sun and is making power you should see 5-10 amps on the meter.

Be very careful to make sure all connections are correct or you could damage something.

[squaw999]

Panel data is attached photo.
Multimeter can test max 20A (unfused).
I have just installed an old controller and waiting results.

[sailorboy1]

sounds to me like a bad connection/wire/fuse between the controller and the battery bank

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by squaw999

Panel data is attached photo.
Multimeter can test max 20A (unfused).
I have just installed an old controller and waiting results.
Attachment 171539

Guess this label is not English but seems clear that the Voc (or Uoc on the label) is 21.60 V. That is a little high to connect directly to the batteries for a test but should be OK for a very short time.

[squaw999]

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

sounds to me like a bad connection/wire/fuse between the controller and the battery bank

Maybe. I will check that latter on.
Tnx

[svlamorocha]

Originally Posted by squaw999

Maybe. I will check that latter on.
Tnx

The gauge of the wires from controller to battery seems small (2,5mm2?). How long are those wires? Any viktage drop along those wires will fool the controller into thinking that the battery voltage is higher than the real voltage.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by svlamorocha

The gauge of the wires from controller to battery seems small (2,5mm2?). How long are those wires? Any viktage drop along those wires will fool the controller into thinking that the battery voltage is higher than the real voltage.

True but I don't think the drop would be enough to cause the controller to totally shut down?

[squaw999]

Originally Posted by svlamorocha

The gauge of the wires from controller to battery seems small (2,5mm2?). How long are those wires? Any viktage drop along those wires will fool the controller into thinking that the battery voltage is higher than the real voltage.

Yes, 2.5 mm2. These wires are long aprox. 4 meters.
But, last summer, everthing was perfect (same wires, same controller, panels). This year, i just connected 2 voltmeters to house and start batteries.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by squaw999

Yes, 2.5 mm2. These wires are long aprox. 4 meters.
But, last summer, everthing was perfect (same wires, same controller, panels). This year, i just connected 2 voltmeters to house and start batteries.

If the panels worked before and the only thing that changed was the new voltmeters then maybe check that.

Are the voltmeters attached to the solar charge controller in any way? In the same circuit? Have you tried attaching the charge controller output directly to the battery with a spare wire or jumper cable?