Heating

[lonesoldier0408]

Tankless water heaters inline with baseboard heat system and low amp low volume pumps.

Sent from my VK810 4G using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[BrieGrande]

Scott Berg, how are the diesel heaters as far as safety? I'm looking into them now, but what is your experience? Thank you so much! :-)

[deblen]

Originally Posted by lonesoldier0408

Tankless water heaters inline with baseboard heat system and low amp low volume pumps.

Sent from my VK810 4G using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

Most tankless water heaters that I'm aware of are propane or CNG. I may be wrong
/ Len

[Dockhead]

I'm not sure that the full complexity of this question has been fully presented.

I live on board a lot during the winter and have been through this exercise myself.

I have a professionally installed Espar central hydronic heating system, part of the original build of my boat. This is an extremely useful device, maybe essential at this latitude, but I do not use it 24/7 throughout the winter. First of all, if you run these on normal marine diesel fuel, they coke up and require expensive service, so I try not to run mine when there are other heat sources available. Second, they use a fair amount of fuel, and so are not that cheap to run compared to electricity.

These systems have a lot of advantages, but they require professional service, and can be quite expensive to keep up. I just spent nearly $2000 on mine this year, with several futile service attempts and finally replacement of a burner tube, an amazingly expensive part.

So I use the hydronic system while cruising, underway, at anchor, but I don't run it if I have another good way -- so I usually heat with electricity when I have unmetered electrical power. 3.5kW of ordinary domestic fan heaters will keep the boat reasonably warm (16 to 18C) as long as the outside temperature is above freezing. That's a 54' sailing vessel with lots of ventilation, which I do NOT plug up in the winter, as air circulation is really important for fighting mold.

In the U.S., I have used reverse cycle air conditioning for heat on board, and this is a really excellent system so long as the water temperature does not fall below the minimum (I think 4C or something like that) required for the system to work. Depending on the water temperature, you might get 2x, 3x or even more heat per kWH consumed, compared to simple electric resistance heat.

If I were going to heat with diesel fuel 24/7, I might go to a simple pot heater which is not as sensitive to sooting up and which you can service yourself.


For the OP -- If there is enough electrical capacity available, and it is either unmetered or reasonably priced, and if you plan to be at a dock the whole winter, electrical heat can be a good idea. You need to run the numbers to know how much capacity you need -- I would guess it will be 5kW or 6kW for that boat, and don't expect to keep it as warm as a house. If you have air conditioning, can you run it on reverse cycle?

For most full time liveaboards in cold climates, a single source of heat will not be enough. I have hydronic plus fan heaters. My next boat will probably have a hydronic system which can use as its heat source not only a diesel furnace, but also engine waste heat, electrical resistance heat, and maybe even reverse cycle AC.

Another approach could be to heat the salon with a diesel pot heater (the main disadvantage of these is that it's hard to distribute the heat they produce, but they're great for heating one big space), and heat the rest of the boat with electricity.

In any case, it's a complicated question with a lot of tradeoffs.

[deblen]

Originally Posted by BrieGrande

Base board hot water like in a house. It's radiant heat like an old time radiator, but it would be electric. The water heats with a heating source powered by electricity. I am thinking as I read responses that it would in fact draw to much and forced air is better.
:-)

You can certainly get an "electric boiler",but as you & Scott Berg say-the BTU/hr (KW) rating to heat a 50ft boat would probably be impractical,unless you have a minimum 100A/240VAC & more likely,a std 200A/240VAC electrical entrance.
Oil fired heat is just more practical for a boat-either forced air or hydronic.
A std. well insulated,small bungalow requires 10-15 KW of electric heat up here. You may be able to survive on less than 10KW in your area & still be comfy.
BTU/hr to kilowatts (kW) conversion

You will also need a condensation reducing "Venmar" type Heat Recovery Ventilator if you live aboard IMHO.

Cheers/ Len

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by deblen

. . . You will also need a condensation reducing "Venmar" type Heat Recovery Ventilator if you live aboard IMHO. . . .

That's a great idea for liveaboard boats in winter

[deblen]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

I'm not sure that the full complexity of this question has been fully presented.

I live on board a lot during the winter and have been through this exercise myself.

I have a professionally installed Espar central hydronic heating system, part of the original build of my boat. This is an extremely useful device, maybe essential at this latitude, but I do not use it 24/7 throughout the winter. First of all, if you run these on normal marine diesel fuel, they coke up and require expensive service, so I try not to run mine when there are other heat sources available. Second, they use a fair amount of fuel, and so are not that cheap to run compared to electricity.

These systems have a lot of advantages, but they require professional service, and can be quite expensive to keep up. I just spent nearly $2000 on mine this year, with several futile service attempts and finally replacement of a burner tube, an amazingly expensive part.

So I use the hydronic system while cruising, underway, at anchor, but I don't run it if I have another good way -- so I usually heat with electricity when I have unmetered electrical power. 3.5kW of ordinary domestic fan heaters will keep the boat reasonably warm (16 to 18C) as long as the outside temperature is above freezing. That's a 54' sailing vessel with lots of ventilation, which I do NOT plug up in the winter, as air circulation is really important for fighting mold.

In the U.S., I have used reverse cycle air conditioning for heat on board, and this is a really excellent system so long as the water temperature does not fall below the minimum (I think 4C or something like that) required for the system to work. Depending on the water temperature, you might get 2x, 3x or even more heat per kWH consumed, compared to simple electric resistance heat.

If I were going to heat with diesel fuel 24/7, I might go to a simple pot heater which is not as sensitive to sooting up and which you can service yourself.


For the OP -- If there is enough electrical capacity available, and it is either unmetered or reasonably priced, and if you plan to be at a dock the whole winter, electrical heat can be a good idea. You need to run the numbers to know how much capacity you need -- I would guess it will be 5kW or 6kW for that boat, and don't expect to keep it as warm as a house. If you have air conditioning, can you run it on reverse cycle?

For most full time liveaboards in cold climates, a single source of heat will not be enough. I have hydronic plus fan heaters. My next boat will probably have a hydronic system which can use as its heat source not only a diesel furnace, but also engine waste heat, electrical resistance heat, and maybe even reverse cycle AC.

Another approach could be to heat the salon with a diesel pot heater (the main disadvantage of these is that it's hard to distribute the heat they produce, but they're great for heating one big space), and heat the rest of the boat with electricity.

In any case, it's a complicated question with a lot of tradeoffs.

I guess I was preaching while you were writing
I agree with your post & you have had the experience! / L

[deblen]

A recent thread on boat heating that may help:

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...on-168315.html