Originally Posted by Joli
We're interested in making the move to digital switching. The idea of main power lines run down both sides of the hull
and feeding a digital switch that can be controlled by a NMEA
network is tempting. It would allow for wire reduction and a simpler system. With something like a bypass module added to the mix I don't really see the risk. The boat
is already very integrated with NMEA 2000
tying everything together and we rely heavily on electronics
to drive the boat
in all conditions. Black boxes run much of the boat today.
Some items like windlasses and bow thrusters are wired directly to the batteries
within 6 inches and breakers further down stream.
Anyway, we're exploring.
This is an idea I've been thinking about, off and on, for many years. Seems like you would need main power lines down each side of the hull
switches for each 12V device (lights, fans, pumps etc etc, anything not centrally located.
- Are there PGM's to turn a remote switch on and off?
- Can each item be identified uniquely?
- Can you place switches centrally and a local switch also (turn on cabin light centrally or in the cabin)
- Could you have several switches on the backbone, in various places, to control a device (turn on the deck lights from the helm or dodger or nav table)
- could one switch be electronic so that you could rotate a dial, select from a menu, or punch in a device name and control any device one the boat from one place with a single switch?
- could the system have error codes if a device does not take any current, (like burned out)? Or unusually high current?
- Can the NMEA also light up an led on the panel so you see what is on anywhere?
- The switches need embedded breakers and manual options in the event that the NMEA2000 backbone is down. Switches could be designed and built modularly.
- The system needs connectors which can be added to a cable run for another switch when you install another device.
- Are there already produced switches that respond to NMEA PGN's?
- We might need a 120v (or 240v) cable run and switches which could handle that voltage. Perhaps all the cable runs should be 240 volt and the switches include a converter to 12V (or 24v) (modular). Then your stove, your cabin lights, your whatever, could be powered by one run of electricity.
Once I thought about Bluetooth control but NMEA 2000
My "simple" little boat has four cable runs with bundles bigger than my arm. I'd think that reducing that to two or four heavy cables
would be better and if it was 240v then the cables
could be quite small.
Sailing is a sport, an athletic activity, not a sedentary one.
Fred Roswold-Fred & Judy, SV Wings, Mexico