Diode for Anchor/Steaming Light???

[mvweebles]

I have a 36-foot powerboat with 12-volt systems. Note, regulations permit a single all-around steaming light for vessels under power below 12-meters (39-feet).

I would like to use a single all-around light as both anchor and steaming light. Occurs to me a diode of some sort will permit this - see the attached diagram.

QUESTIONS:

1. Am I missing anything here?
2. Assuming I'm on right track, any specific recommendations for Diode (URL would be great)?

Thanks in advance -

Anchor Steaming Light.jpg Views: 140 Size: 349.6 KB ID: 257826" style="margin: 2px" />

[rslifkin]

I used diodes for mine. I have a separate stern light, so I used a masthead that can be lit as a 225* or a 360*. The Nav switch feeds the side and stern lights directly, then the forward part of the masthead through a diode. The Anchor switch feeds the aft part of the masthead directly, then the forward part through a diode. That way nothing back-feeds. It's been wired that way for a couple of years and works fine.

The diodes I used are these (they conveniently connect right to the switch terminals): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also use double pole switches where the side lights are on one pole and the masthead on the other, that way turning on the anchor light doesn't back-feed the side lights (as they're not connected to the masthead light unless the nav lights are on).

[goboatingnow]

A common or garden 1N5001 diode will cover most bulb wattages in use.

[Rumrace]

Using a diode alone to stop the LED from expiring is likely the worst way possible to control its lumen output colour rendering and life span. A good quality system has a class 2 power supply or a dedicated driver. Either will have 2 levels of RF filters. Or you can order 12V from amazon or eBay with a driver on the led which perform like an average led house lamp.
Marine really calls for marine grade tough. They should be as tough as any electrical system on the boat. I2 Systems is one of my go too’s.
I toured a Hanse which had stepped up the lighting game with twin rectangular led recessed from a company in Norway.
As to an anchor and running light I’ve moved from power where the transom is well lit. It a rolling sea the mast head running light is great. I would use 4 line silicone wire. A mutual ground , anchor, running, spreader. I like blue light for spreader lights. There are two easy blues and the light blue is the one I like. It’s less obtrusive at an anchorage or docking. Lensing on these fixtures is key. We don’t want a circle of light so a pro. Fixture gets ordered with a linear spread lens. Now two long thin beams run the gunnels.
Side markers sorry if I’m preaching to the choir but power and sail are different. Sail have an annoying increased up lens rather than power boats lights eyelid.
I’ve changed every fixture in the boat using Studio Italia, I 2 Systems and some waterproof strip light. Everything is dim-able and remote. So all the Chinese lighting in my French boats tossed

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Rumrace

Using a diode alone to stop the LED from expiring is likely the worst way possible to control its lumen output colour rendering and life span. A good quality system has a class 2 power supply or a dedicated driver. Either will have 2 levels of RF filters. Or you can order 12V from amazon or eBay with a driver on the led which perform like an average led house lamp.
Marine really calls for marine grade tough. They should be as tough as any electrical system on the boat. I2 Systems is one of my go too’s.
I toured a Hanse which had stepped up the lighting game with twin rectangular led recessed from a company in Norway.
As to an anchor and running light I’ve moved from power where the transom is well lit. It a rolling sea the mast head running light is great. I would use 4 line silicone wire. A mutual ground , anchor, running, spreader. I like blue light for spreader lights. There are two easy blues and the light blue is the one I like. It’s less obtrusive at an anchorage or docking. Lensing on these fixtures is key. We don’t want a circle of light so a pro. Fixture gets ordered with a linear spread lens. Now two long thin beams run the gunnels.
Side markers sorry if I’m preaching to the choir but power and sail are different. Sail have an annoying increased up lens rather than power boats lights eyelid.
I’ve changed every fixture in the boat using Studio Italia, I 2 Systems and some waterproof strip light. Everything is dim-able and remote. So all the Chinese lighting in my French boats tossed

This isn't about a diode for LED protection, it's to get proper anchor/nav light functionality when the same light needs to be part of both circuits.

[Rumrace]

Sure it’s worked for years.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

I used diodes for mine. I have a separate stern light, so I used a masthead that can be lit as a 225* or a 360*. The Nav switch feeds the side and stern lights directly, then the forward part of the masthead through a diode. The Anchor switch feeds the aft part of the masthead directly, then the forward part through a diode. That way nothing back-feeds. It's been wired that way for a couple of years and works fine.

The diodes I used are these (they conveniently connect right to the switch terminals): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also use double pole switches where the side lights are on one pole and the masthead on the other, that way turning on the anchor light doesn't back-feed the side lights (as they're not connected to the masthead light unless the nav lights are on).

That is a 10 cent diode for $8. Not much of a deal.

The OP's idea will work fine.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Rumrace

Using a diode alone to stop the LED from expiring is likely the worst way possible to control its lumen output colour rendering and life span. A good quality system has a class 2 power supply or a dedicated driver. Either will have 2 levels of RF filters. Or you can order 12V from amazon or eBay with a driver on the led which perform like an average led house lamp.
Marine really calls for marine grade tough. They should be as tough as any electrical system on the boat. I2 Systems is one of my go too’s.
I toured a Hanse which had stepped up the lighting game with twin rectangular led recessed from a company in Norway.
As to an anchor and running light I’ve moved from power where the transom is well lit. It a rolling sea the mast head running light is great. I would use 4 line silicone wire. A mutual ground , anchor, running, spreader. I like blue light for spreader lights. There are two easy blues and the light blue is the one I like. It’s less obtrusive at an anchorage or docking. Lensing on these fixtures is key. We don’t want a circle of light so a pro. Fixture gets ordered with a linear spread lens. Now two long thin beams run the gunnels.
Side markers sorry if I’m preaching to the choir but power and sail are different. Sail have an annoying increased up lens rather than power boats lights eyelid.
I’ve changed every fixture in the boat using Studio Italia, I 2 Systems and some waterproof strip light. Everything is dim-able and remote. So all the Chinese lighting in my French boats tossed

Sorry but your comments are just a load of nonsense

Firstly lots of Chinese led lighting is fine. I have many such systems working perfectly

Secondly “ class 2” is a ott US NEC specification that’s completely irrelevant to boats . It’s primarily designed for mains powered leds.

Leds in themselves generate no RF , in certain cases the power supply to such LEDs may contain pwm switching circuitry which “ can” cause interference. But it’s not common with the circuits in use today.

At the last count I have 34 switching power systems on my boat ranging from 500mW to over 2000w. The risk of interference from the 2000W device is much greater then a tiny led switcher.

As for marine tough , that’s a meaningless descriptor

[guyrj33]

You have two switches Turn both on when under poweri. only turn the masthead 360 on when anchored. No need for a diode, don’t over complicate things

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by guyrj33

You have two switches Turn both on when under poweri. only turn the masthead 360 on when anchored. No need for a diode, don’t over complicate things

The OP is simplifying. One switch for running lights and one for anchor light.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by stormalong

The OP is simplifying. One switch for running lights and one for anchor light.

Thinking about it, either way is similar operational complexity. Still only 2 switches for the system.

[SVToybox]

Your circuit drawing is correct and I have used it for more than 10 years on our trawler. I also added a photo switch in the anchor light leg (night watchman) so the anchor light will turn off during the day and turn itself on at night. Thus, you can leave the boat during the day without wasting power and find the boat after dark because the anchor light is on.

[SVToybox]

A single On-off-On switch is all that is required.

[RaymondR]

The OPs circuit should work well for what they intend to do, just needs a diode with a large enough current rating for the power consumption of the lights.

Handy things diodes, you can use them with a double pole, double throw switch to use a single set of conductors for two separate lights.

[Rumrace]

Adding the photocell switch is just plain brilliant. Terrible coming back to a dark boat.