DC Panel question

[Enkiboat]

I am replacing the original panel and breakers from my 1981 Colvic Countess 33. I have decided to use a fuse block and standard toggle switches, as it just makes more sense to me from a wiring perspective.

My question is about the downside of using a bank of switches like the photo, instead of a large panel with them spread out over 18x30 inches. I don't have any experience boating, so I'm sure there is a reason they use large panels, just not sure what it is, and how critical the difference. Because I'm using all led lights, and removing a number of other superfluous DC circuits, and only need about 16 total, and I much prefer the look of something like this.

Thanks in advance.

[team karst]

Originally Posted by Enkiboat

... I have decided to use a fuse block and standard toggle switches, a....

separate switches I don't see as an issue, but rethink fuses for the common DC users. In my experience, motors (bilge pumps, water pumps, fans, etc) will manytimes jam at end of life and trip the breaker, with can be easily reset, where fuses need more care in selection..

[Strygaldwir]

Do you have any AC aboard? You'd probably want a separate bank of switches to control those circuits. How will the wiring behind the switches be routed? How will the labels look? When you have to replace the switch, will you be able to find a replacement? Are they readily replaceable? When the LED go out, will you have to replace the whole switch? Will the switches be available in the various loads you'll need? Will you be utilizing any relays if they are not available for the load?

All are answerable questions, but answering may introduce some unexpected complexities.

[Enkiboat]

I do have AC, and it's all on a separate panel. I decided to use to Carling toggle switches on a standard panel, they are inexpensive and easily available. They are rated for 15a and I don't have any DC loads higher than that.

I have space to route the wiring, and anything will be a considerable upgrade from the mess that exists right now. There are still old style soldered fuses across some of the circuits, but routing is not a problem.

I'm not sure that any of these things are different from a DC panel with breakers.

[noelex 77]

Using switches and fuses instead of circuit breakers is acceptable. All boat electrical panels used were wired like this before the widespread availability of circuit breakers.

There are some drawbacks including extra connections (never a good thing on a boat), greater difficulty clearing a routine fault condition, and the greater need to carry spare parts.

Always install more switchable circuits (switches or circuit breakers) than you think you will need. Electrical devices have a habit of multiplying over time and many marine devices do not have their own on/off switch.

Below is a photo of our main electrical panel (we also have several sub panels) on a relatively simple 49 foot boat.

[Enkiboat]

Here is what I'm starting with, so it can only get better!

[MikeHoncho]

I consider that normal........it makes me feel better when I look behind my panel.

[Stu Jackson]

One of the reasons for traditional panel layouts is consideration of being on a pitching boat. Having physical space between switches is a good thing.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Using switches and fuses instead of circuit breakers is acceptable. All boat electrical panels used were wired like this before the widespread availability of circuit breakers.

There are some drawbacks including extra connections (never a good thing on a boat), ...

Indeed!
One aspect, that is often overlooked, when comparing circuit breaker vs switch and fuse installations, is Voltage Drop.
Using a switch & fuse adds 4 extra connection points* to the circuit, resulting in increased voltage drop.
* (2) wiring between Sw & Fuse, PLUS (2) spring contacts on fuse holder.

See "Ohm's Law & Boats" ➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums....html#post1256

Originally Posted by GordMay

“...
Every wire, and each termination, has a resistance to current flow; which causes a voltage to develop across the length of the circuit. This results in a voltage drop between the source (ie: a battery) and the load device (ie: Bilge Pump etc).

It will become apparent that given the low voltages utilized on boats (12VDC battery), even very small increases in circuit resistance will have major consequences for your boat’s electrical system. ...

... Every effort must be made to reduce circuit resistance, including:
a) Plan your wiring so as to eliminate all unnecessary joints & splices (terminations). ...”

[Enkiboat]

[QUOTE=GordMay;3931276]Indeed!
One aspect, that is often overlooked, when comparing circuit breaker vs switch and fuse installations, is Voltage Drop.
Using a switch & fuse adds 4 extra connection points* to the circuit, resulting in increased voltage drop.


Thank you for this, exactly why I asked the question.