Complete Wiring Refit

[Peel]

I am the new owner of a 1985 Contrast 33. All systems on board are in good shape with the exception of the electrical wiring. When I went to install a NMEA WiFi multiplexer (ShipModul MiniPlex-3Wi-N2K) I was faced with this rat's nest of mostly unlabeled, non-marine wiring of questionable polar integrity (most of the wiring is undifferentiated two-conductor brown lamp cord).

[Peel]

I have 3D printed a new layout for a distribution panel, and wired in Carling thermal circuit breakers, switches and LED indicator lights. I am taking the opportunity to consolidate a few switches located in other locations onboard (fridge power and bilge pump momentary switch), plus prewiring for adding a set of spreader mounted deck lights that don't currently exist, and putting a couple spares in for good measure.

[Peel]

The leads from the distro panel will all run to termination blocks, and every wire will get a label at both ends, so future work by myself or others will be much easier.

[CharlieJ]

Nice looking work. If your aren't already, recommend that you keep a listing of your wiring with five columns: ID, Size, Color, Source and Load; in essence, a textual wiring diagram. I even go so far as to ID the line side of a fuse or circuit breaker separately from the load side of the fuse or circuit breaker. Pays HUGE dividends downstream.

[Chotu]

How much did it cost to 3-D print that panel? That’s absolutely beautiful!

Are you in the business of printing bespoke panels? ��

[Peel]

Originally Posted by CharlieJ

Nice looking work. If your aren't already, recommend that you keep a listing of your wiring with five columns: ID, Size, Color, Source and Load; in essence, a textual wiring diagram. I even go so far as to ID the line side of a fuse or circuit breaker separately from the load side of the fuse or circuit breaker. Pays HUGE dividends downstream.

I have an Excel spreadsheet with all of that info. I plan to print out a sheet when I'm done and place it behind the distribution panel for future owners.

[Peel]

Originally Posted by Chotu

How much did it cost to 3-D print that panel? That’s absolutely beautiful!

Are you in the business of printing bespoke panels? ��

I did a half dozen mini test prints to get the opening sizes accurate before printing the final. I printed the final out of polycarbonate due to it's 300ºC melting point, and inherent quality of being self-exterminating in the event there's ever an electrical arc in one of the circuits.
The panel itself cost about $6 to print, though I had to buy a 1 kilo spool of PC for $65.
And no. I'm not, nor care to be in the business.

[Marathon1150]

Originally Posted by Peel

The leads from the distro panel will all run to termination blocks, and every wire will get a label at both ends, so future work by myself or others will be much easier.

Very nice work! We have two boats, both of which we inherited with similar rat's nest wiring. The first one is pretty much de-nested and the second is in progress. How did you print the circuit details on the heat shrink tubing - that is a terrific idea for labelling?

[Peel]

Originally Posted by Marathon1150

How did you print the circuit details on the heat shrink tubing - that is a terrific idea for labelling?

There are some third party manufacturers that make the heat-shrink labeling for any Brother P-Touch label maker, available in four widths: 6mm, 9mm 12mm & 18mm. I got mine on Amazon

[Lemsteraak]

I just found out about the heat shrink labels, brilliant idea.

I'm also doing a complete refit .... well my boat is old and didn't have an electrical system. I trying to figure out the panel. I built up a panel, old school style, brass with copper and analog gauges. Magnetic breakers, vintage, WWII style but now have second thoughts. I want something that blends in, but I'm now thinking maybe something modern, hidden from sight.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Lemsteraak

I just found out about the heat shrink labels, brilliant idea.

I'm also doing a complete refit .... well my boat is old and didn't have an electrical system. I trying to figure out the panel. I built up a panel, old school style, brass with copper and analog gauges. Magnetic breakers, vintage, WWII style but now have second thoughts. I want something that blends in, but I'm now thinking maybe something modern, hidden from sight.

Keep it the way it is...
Those switch h/breakers are likely to be of excellent quality and there is absolutely nothing wrong with analogue gauges (IMO).

Perhaps the only thing I might suggest is to add a 10V Zenner diode in series with the voltmeter. This would convertt it from a 0-15V scale to a 10-15V scale. In other words, convert it to an expanded scale voltmeter. There is no need to change numbers on the scale.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Lemsteraak

I just found out about the heat shrink labels, brilliant idea.

I'm also doing a complete refit .... well my boat is old and didn't have an electrical system. I trying to figure out the panel. I built up a panel, old school style, brass with copper and analog gauges. Magnetic breakers, vintage, WWII style but now have second thoughts. I want something that blends in, but I'm now thinking maybe something modern, hidden from sight.

This is COOL!!!!

Depending on your boat’s interior is take this over modern any day.

[Spot]

Lemsteraak and Peel-
Both nicely done panels.

[Lemsteraak]

Peel, I hope I'm not hijacking your post but you obviously know how do do stuff. I'm kind of winging it. I picked up a Blue Sea panel for 120v and am seriously impressed by this new stuff. I was building this panel but am thinking of upgrading to something like what you are doing.

The problem I have is while the front panel will have a sort of steampunk thing going on, the back panel will be mid century modern with quite a bit of soldering. Here is the back.



I'm going to have a common 12v positive bus bar on one side to feed the breakers and out to a load bus bar on the other side. I'd like to put in some nice little LEDs that show when the circuit is on like what you did. How did you do that? That is so professional.

The circuit breakers I'm using are a very old style from military aircraft. Everything I read says that solders connections in a marine environment is really bad and that the way to go is the heat shrink crimped connections.

Here is a close up of one of the breakers



The posts have a hook to connect a solder joint. Would shrink tubing after help keep moisture out?

- Rich

[chowdan]

Solder joints are a no no because as the boat vibration and jolts occur, they have a higher chance of breaking.

I would think something like maybe liquid tape could help seal it better