Chafe protection through fiberglass... best solution?

[basssears]

Tried to do some digging through the archives but didn't find what I was looking for (seem to just search up preventing chafe on dock lines, which I already have hose for).

So far most of the wiring I have added has been in the open (i.e. not going through any bulkheads or fiberglass) so my main job has just been to support it correctly.

I now have a few wires that are going to run through some holes I'll drill in fiberglass cabinets / settee bases etc. What is considered "best practice" to provide chafe protection through these holes? All the articles say "protect your wires" but don't necessarily say how.

(NOTE: these holes do NOT need to be watertight... I have used the Blue Sea Cable Clam for that with good success... this is all interior in the cabin).

Ideas I've seen are:
* plastic "glands" / grommets / bushings
* rubber bushings (but these have such a narrow slit in them they're better suited to going through metal than thicker fiberglass / wood)
* plastic automotive wire loom
* split loom braided cable sleeves

Would love to hear what's actually worked well for people.

Thanks in advance!

-- Bass

[JPA Cate]

You could consider using Adele clamps (sometimes called P clamps) just for e and aft of the holes.

Ann

[john61ct]

Apparently no "e" at the end

This is an interesting article

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/adel.html

Cable glands / grip connectors "clams" are the standard solution, but these would also work ​ https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...ugh_Connectors

[BlackHeron]

This is something that is easily solved by looking towards the commercial/residential wiring side of things. Halex (and other companies) sell plastic bushings that are made just for this purpose. The black ones snap into holes bored into wood (or fiberglass) and stay secure if you size the holes properly to the bushings. Secure the wire on both sides of the bushing/bulkhead and there will be minimal movement and chafe will be avoided. The bushings are available cheap at any big-box building store and many hardware stores.



https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-S...7251/202077082

[Wulf]

While not as elegant as commercially available solutions, I just use a short piece of hose that just fits in the hole and secure it from moving out of position with a tie strap on either side of the bulkhead. Then run the wire through the hose. Not as elegant as the commercial ones but low $$ and just as effective. We all have bits of hose and tie straps on board.

[Greg Mason]

I am with Wulf, or use foam like we use to insulate fridge tubing.

[Cadence]

Bundle your wires. Make the hole as small as you can to accept a rubber grommet and the bundle.

[Cpt Pat]

I use Teflon tubing held in place by stainless hose clamps at each end.

[CharlieJ]

I have found that the simplest, and least expensive, method is to use a short piece of PVC piping, round the edges on the ends, drill a hole slightly larger than the PVC, insert the PVC and hold it in place with hot glue and finally run a fillet of 5200 Fast Cure between the PVC and the structure. Quick, cheap and extremely durable.

[john61ct]

That by itself won't eliminate chafing on the PVC

[Q Xopa]

A small dab of silicone. I usually use the orange RTV stuff only because thats what we usually have at hand. I guess any silicone will do though. The orange might be better if on an hot engine.
I find if you can just stop the wire from shaking around its not going to wear either the wire or what its touching. Obviously cable ties and stand offs etc mostly. But sometimes the occasional dob of RTV doesnt slip where cable ties or P clamps will slip, especially if theres oil around.
By the way the old 3 cables is another favourite of mine. Ie one tie secured to the structure, one around the wire/s and another looping the other 2 together. You can make this all look reasonably neat with a little time and effort if youre so inclined. Done often on aircraft.

[CharlieJ]

Post #10
Recall that I noted that the edges of the PVC are to be rounded.

Chafe is a function of relative motion between the wire/cable and ship structure. ABYC and ISO standards require fastening the wire/cable every 18" and 450mm (17.7") respectively.

If the installer adheres to the wire/cable support requirement and uses the PVC as a bulkhead pass through, chafe is eliminated.

[basssears]

Thank you everyone for your replies.

As in most things boat-ish, any one solution rarely works all the time, I now have a few perfectly manageable ideas here, so much appreciated.



-- Bass

[Suijin]

I have a few sheets of 3/16 rubber that I use for all sorts of things, one of which is for chafe protection. I just cut a piece, wrap, and secure with zip ties.

I don’t like using caulk or silicone or foam for things that don’t need it. Makes it easy to run more wires or inspect without digging out old caulk.

[Lake-Effect]

Lots of useful ideas here.

I would rate plastic glands/grommets/bushings as the best, but lengths of hose or plastic pipe with some means (eg tie-wraps or seal) to keep them in position is also quite good.

Solid plastic loom would also work, again with something to hold it in place.

In the past I've also used foam (eg pipe insulation), but if there's any appreciable movement, I found that it wears through pretty fast, so I can't recommend it any more.