Cathodic Protection Systems

[Therapy]

Down on this page.

BetterPerformaceParts

???

[Tropic Cat]

Well, I took a look.. and the "kit" has more parts to install and monitor than zincs I have onboard...

I'll pass

208 Installation Kits include:

Controller - with color coded display, should be mounted in highly visible location - 6 1/4"L x 3 3/4"H x 2 3/8"D
Anode Studs - Two 3/8" x 5"L insulated brass anode mounting studs with hardware
Reference Cell - Should be installed under hull near a protected fitting - 8"L x 2 3/4"W x 1"D (outside hull) - two mounting studs
Sense Brushes - 3/4"W x 13 5/8"L shaft wiper assembly(s) - for sensing shaft and prop protection level

[David M]

Running an aluminum boat for a living, I looked into such a system. I was strongly advised not to install such a system because when they do fail, they can cause an enormous amount of corrosion to the hull and other metal parts.

Zinc anodes either work or they don't...in no way will they ever actively damage a hull or other metal parts.

Cathodic protection works by creating a voltage opposite to that of the voltage generated by two different metals in an electrolyte (the water your boat sits in). Some people have used it successfully but I don't think is worth the risk...not when the zincs are already doing a good job.

The sensors that measure the voltage created by electrolysis can and do fail...giving the cathodic system a false measurement, resulting in damage.

Call the manufacturer and see if they will put in writing that they will pay 100% of the damages if their system fails or actively damages the metal. I think we already know the answer.

[Therapy]

Originally Posted by rickm505

Well, I took a look.. and the "kit" has more parts to install and monitor than zincs I have onboard...

I'll pass

208 Installation Kits include:

Controller - with color coded display, should be mounted in highly visible location - 6 1/4"L x 3 3/4"H x 2 3/8"D
Anode Studs - Two 3/8" x 5"L insulated brass anode mounting studs with hardware
Reference Cell - Should be installed under hull near a protected fitting - 8"L x 2 3/4"W x 1"D (outside hull) - two mounting studs
Sense Brushes - 3/4"W x 13 5/8"L shaft wiper assembly(s) - for sensing shaft and prop protection level

Thanks!!

[senormechanico]

I made my own system on my previous boat. It consisted of a silver coin

(back in the day that USA actually had REAL money but don't get me started!)

mounted underwater on a polyethelene insulating sheet. This was bedded to the hull and soldered on the back side to a wire which went through the hull and was connected to the bonding wire, thereby serving as a reference to the bonded thruhull system.

The main zinc for the boat was connected in series with a 20 ohm wirewound potentiometer.

An analog 1 ma meter movement was calibrated so half scale was about 0.7 volts. Normally the meter would read about in the middle of the scale when we were anchored, but it read less when underway. I could instantly see if we had enough zinc, and could adjust the bonding system voltage with the pot. It was simple, cheap and effective.


Steve B.

[David M]

Originally Posted by senormechanico

I made my own system on my previous boat. It consisted of a silver coin

(back in the day that USA actually had REAL money but don't get me started!)

mounted underwater on a polyethelene insulating sheet. This was bedded to the hull and soldered on the back side to a wire which went through the hull and was connected to the bonding wire, thereby serving as a reference to the bonded thruhull system.

The main zinc for the boat was connected in series with a 20 ohm wirewound potentiometer.

An analog 1 ma meter movement was calibrated so half scale was about 0.7 volts. Normally the meter would read about in the middle of the scale when we were anchored, but it read less when underway. I could instantly see if we had enough zinc, and could adjust the bonding system voltage with the pot. It was simple, cheap and effective.


Steve B.

Nice idea for measuring what is left of your anodes. I had a similar system..but more expensive and complex. I like your system better though because of it's simplicity. We all know that the more complex, the more likely it is to break.