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Old 19-05-2020, 19:31   #1
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Bonding

I recently had a friend that had issues with the bonding system on his Tayana sailboat. I have a 1998 Hunter 450 Passage and my boat is not bonded. I have had no problems and my zincs are replaced in a normal time frame of around 4 months. My question is this. What are the pros & cons of bonding or not bonding a sailboat?
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Old 19-05-2020, 19:44   #2
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Re: Bonding

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Originally Posted by dekesterooni View Post
I recently had a friend that had issues with the bonding system on his Tayana sailboat. I have a 1998 Hunter 450 Passage and my boat is not bonded. I have had no problems and my zincs are replaced in a normal time frame of around 4 months. My question is this. What are the pros & cons of bonding or not bonding a sailboat?
I am no expert, but if your anodes only last 4 months, I would say that anodes are consumed too fast; 1-2 years would be a more acceptable period I would say. You might have have galvanic corrosion problem and/or an electrolysis problem superimposed on that (ie stray currents, or earthing issues when connected to shorepower). I hope I got the terminology right here

I believe that the advantage of bonding is that all metal (that is contact with sea water) is kept at the same voltage, and when everything is equal, the least noble metal (anode) will slowly dissolve. BTW, on my GRP boat all my skinfittings and prop are bonded. My anodes last 2-3 years between haulouts and the anodes are about half used then.
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Old 19-05-2020, 19:57   #3
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Re: Bonding

My boat is in Long Beach. The zincs never last more than 4-5 months. My bottom cleaners said that is normal in So. Cal.
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Old 22-05-2020, 14:57   #4
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Re: Bonding

I had an issue with the bonding, where one fitting was being attacked. It was explained to me that the stainless in that fitting was maybe slightly different from the others. After much thought I removed all the bonding. That was 15 years ago, no problems since.
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Old 22-05-2020, 15:03   #5
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Re: Bonding

Bonding, improperly done, creates galvanic corrosion problems. Some person bonded the aluminum sail drive to the lead keel of my previous boat, and they did it in a sneaky way that was very hard to find. That caused me a lot of pain.
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Old 22-05-2020, 15:04   #6
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Re: Bonding

Don't know if you ever saw this classic:


https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvis...unding-Systems


Are your thru hulls metal or Marelon?
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Old 22-05-2020, 15:15   #7
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Re: Bonding

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Bonding, improperly done, creates galvanic corrosion problems. Some person bonded the aluminum sail drive to the lead keel of my previous boat, and they did it in a sneaky way that was very hard to find. That caused me a lot of pain.
Unbelievable!!
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Old 25-05-2020, 07:09   #8
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Re: Bonding

Quote:
Originally Posted by HankOnthewater View Post
I am no expert, but if your anodes only last 4 months, I would say that anodes are consumed too fast; 1-2 years would be a more acceptable period I would say. You might have have galvanic corrosion problem and/or an electrolysis problem superimposed on that (ie stray currents, or earthing issues when connected to shorepower). I hope I got the terminology right here

I believe that the advantage of bonding is that all metal (that is contact with sea water) is kept at the same voltage, and when everything is equal, the least noble metal (anode) will slowly dissolve. BTW, on my GRP boat all my skinfittings and prop are bonded. My anodes last 2-3 years between haulouts and the anodes are about half used then.
It could also be stray currents from a nearby vessel.
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Old 27-05-2020, 07:26   #9
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Re: Bonding

Despite conventional wisdom, my approach is don't fix it it it ain't broke. If you don't see any signs of electrolysis on underwater metal then leave it isolated. By completing the circuit with bonding you are inviting problems that an isolated piece of metal would avoid.
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Old 27-05-2020, 08:27   #10
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Re: Bonding

I BONDED all my thru hulls. Getting white corrosion power.



Added a YADINA isolator.


Changed bilge pump. No fridge, air con. Just solar and battery charger.


Bonding seems to make no difference.
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Old 27-05-2020, 08:40   #11
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Re: Bonding

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I BONDED all my thru hulls. Getting white corrosion power.



Added a YADINA isolator.


Changed bilge pump. No fridge, air con. Just solar and battery charger.


Bonding seems to make no difference.
I believe bonding thru hulls etc is meant to be more of a lightning protection scheme, I don’t think anything has been proven for lightning protection.
However in your picture, I’d bet money that the ball valve is brass, see how it’s a different color than the Bronze? Plus the rusted parts make me think it’s not a Marine Bronze ball valve.
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Old 27-05-2020, 09:00   #12
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Re: Bonding

My rule is:
If bonded and no problem, leave it bonded.
If not bonded and no problem, leave it unbonded.
I have had both and neither were an issue. If rebuilding a boat or building a boat I would not bond until I see an issue.
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Old 27-05-2020, 09:13   #13
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Re: Bonding

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I BONDED all my thru hulls. Getting white corrosion powder.



Added a YADINA isolator.


Changed bilge pump. No fridge, air con. Just solar and battery charger.


Bonding seems to make no difference.
When you say you are getting white corrosion "Powder" that suggests you are talking about corrosion INSIDE the hull. Bonding and Galvanic Isolators all relate to metal exposed to the water OUTSIDE the hull, they do nothing for problems inside the hull.

Although white powder residue is a nuisance it rarely relates to serious degradation of the metal and cleaning followed by a thin layer of Silicone grease should keep it under control.
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