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Jd1 · 06-01-2016, 08:46

The Electromaxxx 'kits' do not include the tensioning arm needed for the alternator. I purchased an AT200, MC-614 regulator and serpentine pulley kit and ended up having to machine my own tensioning bracket. Not my idea of a 'kit'.
I was not impressed with the whole transaction.

klaus53123 · 06-01-2016, 09:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by colemj

Doing those two things, along with using high quality belts, allow it operate with only a bit of belt dust being generated. Also, it needs higher rpm to reach full output (because of the pulley change). However, this is not an issue for us because our alternators are a tertiary charging source that are only in use when we are motoring somewhere.

Hi Mark,

many thanks for your comment. Could you specify "higher RPM".

Where did you get the 2.7" pulley from????

Best Regards
Klaus

Maine Sail · 06-01-2016, 09:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jd1

The Electromaxxx 'kits' do not include the tensioning arm needed for the alternator. I purchased an AT200, MC-614 regulator and serpentine pulley kit and ended up having to machine my own tensioning bracket. Not my idea of a 'kit'.
I was not impressed with the whole transaction.

The MD2030 does not require a tensioner like some engines do...

colemj · 06-01-2016, 09:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by klaus53123

Hi Mark,

many thanks for your comment. Could you specify "higher RPM".

Where did you get the 2.7" pulley from????

Best Regards

Klaus

I got the pulley from some supply company I found on the internet. Cost was <$20, but I don't remember the company. They are common parts and could probably be found at NAPA, etc.

Higher rpm referred to the charge curve of the alternator. The smaller pulley ratio requires proportionally more engine rpm over the larger ratio to give a particular alternator speed. So engine rpm is now ~25% higher for the same previous output.

The way we operate, this doesn't matter since the alternator is only used for charging when we are motoring - at which point the engine rpm is above that necessary for full output anyway.

Mark

colemj · 06-01-2016, 09:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

The MD2030 does not require a tensioner like some engines do...

I think he was referring to the mounting arm. Don't know why the original one wouldn't work, but some of those are pretty weak.

Mark

Jd1 · 06-01-2016, 15:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by colemj

I think he was referring to the mounting arm. Don't know why the original one wouldn't work, but some of those are pretty weak.

Mark

The alternator has a fixed mounting on the bottom and an arm on the top to adjust for belt tension. I was referring to that arm.
In my case the new arm had to be substantially larger than the old (longer and heavier) but of course that depends on the alternator and engine combo.
If you do not have the machining facilities, designing and building this arm is likely to come close to a boat buck (wild guess as I did my own ... lots of fiddling to get the design right)

mbartosch · 07-01-2016, 13:59

Hi Klaus,

We just finished installation of our new alternator on a Yanmar 4JH5E engine. Yes, it's not a Volvo but our experience may helpful, because we really had some problems specifically with the AT 165.

Originally I ordered a Balmar AT 165 and the Alt Mount Kit from a Balmar distributor (RJS Marine, really highly recommended!).

When installing the AT 165 I encountered two severe problems:

1. there is a non-removable plastic stud coming out of the cage which prevented our model from tilting "inwards" far enough to allow mounting the belt
2. even worse, the B+ terminal of tha AT165 is located "inwards" from the plastic stud

You can see the problem on the attached images. On the second picture you can see how the B+ wire would have had to be mounted (empty cable shoe as a simulation) - it would not have been possible at all to mount the B+ cable without touching the engine block.
It totally eludes me why Balmar chose this terminal layout, I believe the problem will not only exist with Yanmar engines.

After trying this it became clear that the AT 165 would not fit. Really, really bad, as it is a very nice piece of technology!
Luckily we were able to swap the AT 165 for a Balmar 6 type alternator (thanks, Richard). It's an older design and only delivers 150 instead of nominal 165 A. But this model did properly fit on our engine (see third picture). You can also see that the terminal layout was not a problem with this alternator.

BTW, we are also charging a LiFePO4 bank with this alternator. Using a Balmar MC 614 charge regulator.
(Maine Sail, many thanks for all your extremely helpful posts and articles on your web site and in the LiFePO4 thread!)

Cheers

Martin

offpist · 07-01-2016, 23:04

mbartosch, I had the same problem.
However you can fit an AT165/AT200 as an second alternator. See post #10.

mpjo · 07-05-2016, 04:27

mbartosch, offpist, you just saved me from lot of trouble - thanks!

I'm planning to upgrade my alternator on my Yanmar 4JH5-E and was trying to figure out, whether the AT 200 would fit in or if I should go for the AT 165. Now it looks neither of them would fit.

Would there be space behind the alternator if you used an L shaped copper "extender" on the + terminal to make the wire connection behind the alternator (or bend the terminal behind the alternator)? If the AT 165 does not fit ue to the previously mentioned issues, I suppose the AT 200 is totally ruled out.

Anyway, looks that AT 200 as second alternator (and leaving the original for starter & bow thruster) is the way to go.

offpist, is the mounting bracket in your setup custom made or readily available from somewhere?

mbartosch · 07-05-2016, 05:29

Quick update: In the meantime Balmar has reacted to the mounting problems with the AT165 at least for Yanmar engines.
My favourite supplier RJS Marine has sent me back the AT165 for testing that and a brand new "idler pulley" which supposedly routes the belt around the water pump. This would allow the alternator to tilt outwards, allowing for more space for the B+ cable.
Iffff it works that would mean that I could install the AT 165!
I have done a test mount install with the 6 type alternator to measure belt length (1168 mm for my install). See image.
The real test will happen end of May.
I will post an update once I know if it works.