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Old 04-05-2021, 21:12   #31
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Re: Ammeter/ parasitic draw reading

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Originally Posted by BAD ORCA View Post
sorry i missed this. my bilge pump is directly wired to a single charge bus so its powered 24/7.

i do turn the selector switch and the AC main breaker off every time i leave the boat. I dont trust my old wiring to leave it unattended.

hmm...i dont think there is any way to isolate the engine panel. the starter and alternator wire go to the common post on the 1,2,B switch at the distribution panel. the alternator output i plan on moving to the main charge bus, its something i just havnt gotten to yet. when the battery selector switch is on, the engine (starter) is powered.
I wasn't asking about the alternator output rather the alternator excitation. I repeat: either the alternator is activated via an oil pressure switch or it is on all the time. If it is on all the time the alternator will be warm to the touch. That would be a parasitic load.
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Old 04-05-2021, 21:21   #32
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Re: Ammeter/ parasitic draw reading

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Originally Posted by stormalong View Post
I wasn't asking about the alternator output rather the alternator excitation. I repeat: either the alternator is activated via an oil pressure switch or it is on all the time. If it is on all the time the alternator will be warm to the touch. That would be a parasitic load.
ok sorry i obviously didnt understand. no the alternator is dead cold at all times unless the engine is running. i will have to assume its the former. im a little weak in the engine/alternator electrical so thats the best i can offer for now.
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Old 06-05-2021, 20:43   #33
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Re: Ammeter/ parasitic draw reading

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Originally Posted by witzgall View Post
Chris from Balmar here. When you are seeing that 20% very early in the discharge cycle, what does the SG200 show as the State of Health?

If you batteries are compromised, but the SG200 has not yet learned your batteries and is showing a SoH of 100%, then what you are seeing is plausible. Essentially, your SoH should be lower, and the monitor recognizes the decreased capacity as the voltage is going much lower than it should for the removed AHs. THis is still better than a typical AH meter, which would simply count down from 100%, damn the actual capacity. Once you get a good SOH, then the SoC should be more linear.

If you do have a bad cell, then the SoC may drop to 0% perhaps 20-30% before the bottom. I have seen this where the SOC is in the 50s, and then boom it is 0%. This is because the voltage and calculated impedance are soo out of range that goes to 0%. Especially if you hit termination voltage way before you should.

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Chris this is so embarrassing to admit to, but i feel like i should because it affects the way people may perceive your product.

I posted earlier in this thread i was 100% sure i had the SG-200 wired properly and noted it was reading 100% health when i pulled my now confirmed bad Trojans. By the time i pulled them it should have learned they were bad or started to degrade some amount at least. My comment would have made it appear it was possibly a defective unit or that it was not working as designed.

I was going through photos of my original installation when the SG-200 and t-105's were installed and to my extreme embarrassment realized i may have had the shunt hooked up backwards. Its hard to see but in the pic it looks like i can clearly see the cable between the shunt and bus bar says 'BAT' which should be between the battery and the shunt.

When i removed and re-installed it last weekend, when i removed the trojans, i did manage to actually install it correctly with the short cable coming off the neg battery post going to the shunt 'BATT-' connector. im back at the boat tonight and have only charged my tiny little 65Ah dual use battery twice and interestingly, the SG-200 is recording 97% SoH, the first time its ever recorded anything other than 100% I know this battery is old and pretty beaten up so may show an even much lower SoH before i pull it and replace it with a Firefly.

So it appears i was in the wrong and wanted to post my clarification so as to not tarnish the SG-200's performance from inaccurate information. Now that it seems to be capable of doing its job it will be interesting to see what info i get.

Thanks for your contributions to these threads. Hopefully i didnt do any damage to the unit and maybe your engineers will sleep a little better tonight.

BAD ORCA
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Old 06-05-2021, 20:59   #34
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Re: Ammeter/ parasitic draw reading

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Originally Posted by BAD ORCA View Post
Chris this is so embarrassing to admit to, but i feel like i should because it affects the way people may perceive your product.

I posted earlier in this thread i was 100% sure i had the SG-200 wired properly and noted it was reading 100% health when i pulled my now confirmed bad Trojans. By the time i pulled them it should have learned they were bad or started to degrade some amount at least. My comment would have made it appear it was possibly a defective unit or that it was not working as designed.

I was going through photos of my original installation when the SG-200 and t-105's were installed and to my extreme embarrassment realized i may have had the shunt hooked up backwards. Its hard to see but in the pic it looks like i can clearly see the cable between the shunt and bus bar says 'BAT' which should be between the battery and the shunt.

When i removed and re-installed it last weekend, when i removed the trojans, i did manage to actually install it correctly with the short cable coming off the neg battery post going to the shunt 'BATT-' connector. im back at the boat tonight and have only charged my tiny little 65Ah dual use battery twice and interestingly, the SG-200 is recording 97% SoH, the first time its ever recorded anything other than 100% I know this battery is old and pretty beaten up so may show an even much lower SoH before i pull it and replace it with a Firefly.

So it appears i was in the wrong and wanted to post my clarification so as to not tarnish the SG-200's performance from inaccurate information. Now that it seems to be capable of doing its job it will be interesting to see what info i get.

Thanks for your contributions to these threads. Hopefully i didnt do any damage to the unit and maybe your engineers will sleep a little better tonight.

BAD ORCA
Thanks for your frank and honest update, perhaps some others on here could take note and acknowledge when they are somewhat inaccurate.
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Old 06-05-2021, 22:39   #35
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Re: Ammeter/ parasitic draw reading

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Originally Posted by hzcruiser View Post
How did you "fully" charge them? With shore power and a CC that does proper bulk and absorption? Because they show 12.7V at rest doesn't necessarily mean they're fully charged.

Because they show 12.7V at rest doesn't necessarily mean they're fully charged.[/QUOTE]
If that in your opinion doesn't show a "fully" charged 12vt battery, what do you think it should read?
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Old 07-05-2021, 02:05   #36
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Re: Ammeter/ parasitic draw reading

From Trojan:
Negative Terminal- Shipping Date. This code indicates the month and year when the battery was shipped out of our factory [not the manufacturing date].
LETTER stands for the month, A to L (A=January, B=February, C=March, and so on);
NUMBER is the last digit of the year.
Example:
A battery with G4 on the negative.
G4 means that it was shipped from our factory around July of 2014.
https://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/faq/


"A1" would indicate January 2021, [OR 2011], as you indicated.
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