Alternator choices

[john61ct]

Yes serpentine (multi-ribbed) belt is essential past what, 60A continuous?

Reason why Balmar calls current de-rating their "belt saver" feature.

Originally Posted by evm1024

the VSR arduino regulators....

Link please?

[a64pilot]

You can pull 80 amps maybe out of a good single belt, but that is having it tighter than I like, I believe being excessively tight eats bearings, may even be bad on the crankshaft bearing.
When I went with a serpentine, I can run it pretty loose with no slip.

[evm1024]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Yes serpentine (multi-ribbed) belt is essential past what, 60A continuous?

Reason why Balmar calls current de-rating their "belt saver" feature.

Link please?

Sure: VSR Alternator Regulator

From an other thread (with almost the same name....)

[john61ct]

Ah yes I've talked to Al, great guy (thomasow)

I call it his SAR project, he's used "Next Gen", really needs a catchy non-generic googlable trademark IMO

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...rt-195059.html

[evm1024]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Ah yes I've talked to Al, great guy (thomasow)

I call it his SAR project, he's used "Next Gen", really needs a catchy non-generic googlable trademark IMO

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...rt-195059.html

I knew that you knew about the project. I've just been running back and forth thinking about diagnostics and replacing the head gasket on a Johnson 70 HP or having a Gin and Tonic. I think that the drink will win this one.

I like the idea of measuring current and having source code to play with. I used to do a lot of real time programming for sawmills, chemical plants and power grids. Nothing in many years though. Al has done all the heavy lifting on this one. And he is not that far away from me.

[deluxe68]

I have a Balmar 165 with the 614 regulator and serpentine belt kit. It is derated about 18% (I think, cannot remember) and quickly jumps up to about 200 degrees in 5-10 minutes. It does not matter if I am idling or running at 2500 RPM. The max it will put out is about 90 amps without overheating. Next trip I am going to try and rig up the engine room fan to draw from the alternator. I took a closer look at it last time out, there is a plastic cover over the rectifiers that may be contributing to the thing heating up so quickly. Some larger alternators have a caseback made for connecting to a fan duct. I may see if I can buy and extra rectifier cover and enlarge the existing slits to a 3” hole.

I would not buy a Balmar alternator if I were doing it over again, I would buy from Bruce Schwab.

[a64pilot]

If you fan Cool an alternator, you want to blow the air in from the rear. I’m not sure how much good it will do. All I can get out of my 165 alt is about 90 also I have the max temp set at 90c. I have heard they are good for 105c, but I think it may last longer if run cooler.
Porsche I think had a forced air cooled alternator. I think eventually water cooling is the answer, of course that is not off the shelf.

[a64pilot]

Porsche 944 alternator

[evm1024]

You guys have all got me looking at a 28SI rather than the CS144 for an "upgrade".

Making a J-180 mount for my Perkins 4.236 and being sure that hanging 20 pounds of alternator off the engine will work in a seaway.

If not then I'll think about mounting the alternator on its own platform and coming up with a tensioner.

For those who run 28SI (school bus alt) did you get a "real" delco remy or a copy.

[a64pilot]

Wonder if it could be made to fit our alternators?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-944...-/222099291639

[deluxe68]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

If you fan Cool an alternator, you want to blow the air in from the rear. I’m not sure how much good it will do. All I can get out of my 165 alt is about 90 also I have the max temp set at 90c. I have heard they are good for 105c, but I think it may last longer if run cooler.
Porsche I think had a forced air cooled alternator. I think eventually water cooling is the answer, of course that is not off the shelf.

I was just on the Balmar site. They have a new service bulletin out regarding new Yanmar engine shrouds. They have a diagram of the AT alternator air flow thru the two cooling fans. They suck the air in thu the front and back, it exits out the sides.

http://www.balmar.net/wp-content/upl...ruary-2018.pdf

[thethomas]

Originally Posted by evm1024

You guys have all got me looking at a 28SI rather than the CS144 for an "upgrade".



Making a J-180 mount for my Perkins 4.236 and being sure that hanging 20 pounds of alternator off the engine will work in a seaway.



If not then I'll think about mounting the alternator on its own platform and coming up with a tensioner.



For those who run 28SI (school bus alt) did you get a "real" delco remy or a copy.

I’m reading the Nigel Calder section on alternators right now. Two things not mentioned in this thread. As you size up your alternator, your wiring gets thicker, and become so stiff that it can work the nuts off that hold it to the alternator, so mount a bracket from the alternator to the wire. Similar to the bracket your thinking of making to support the alternator.

Second, if you need more power so you can simultaneously power your, for example, water maker and air conditioner while charging your batteries, you can add a second alternator to power your accessories.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by deluxe68

I was just on the Balmar site. They have a new service bulletin out regarding new Yanmar engine shrouds. They have a diagram of the AT alternator air flow thru the two cooling fans. They suck the air in thu the front and back, it exits out the sides.

http://www.balmar.net/wp-content/upl...ruary-2018.pdf

I think all alternators cool like that. Not to make enemies but a Balmar is just a custom wound off the shelf alternator. They do not manufacture it, they modify an existing design.

Reason you would want to concentrate your cooling on the aft end is it’s my understanding that is the hot end, it’s where the diodes are.
Of course they can be remote mounted to $$.

[Lepke]

I use cs144s from an auto wrecker. I changed the bearings and have been running them for 5-6 years. 2 12 volts w/stock regulator and one 48 volt w/external regulator. Mine are early models 140 amp and that is plenty for me. They were easy to fit on Detroit Diesels and would fit on my 4108 Perkins.

[darylat8750]

Originally Posted by evm1024

You guys have all got me looking at a 28SI rather than the CS144 for an "upgrade".

Making a J-180 mount for my Perkins 4.236 and being sure that hanging 20 pounds of alternator off the engine will work in a seaway.

If not then I'll think about mounting the alternator on its own platform and coming up with a tensioner.

For those who run 28SI (school bus alt) did you get a "real" delco remy or a copy.

I got a "real" one as the price difference was not significant. A multi ribbed belt set up would have been way more than the cost of the alternator. I went for the less desirable twin belt pulleys and have had no issues with more than 1200 hours of use. When having difficulty finding belts listed as "matched" I contacted a manufacturer and they said the the modern high quality belts off the production line are better matched than the "matched" belts of a few years ago.

28SI 180amp 12volt mounted on a 120HP Lehman. At idle while pulling anchor it produces just under 100amps and at cruise (1600 engine rpm) it stays at 180amps until my 800+amp house bank has finished the bulk charge. I love this thing.