Adding ACR, Balmar SG200, new batteries, bus bars...

[rbk]

Can be done easily with MS Publisher and pulling pic's from online for components.

[Bycrick]

Concerning what order to place connections on a busbar. The highest current connections should be placed at the center of the bar, with lower current connections on both sides. The same is true when making connections to a Power Post terminal. If connecting more than one wire to a busbar or terminal, the higher current wires go on closer to the bar.

[bcboomer]

Tin plated copper busbar material is available online. I guess bare copper could corrode if it is near the batteries.
https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/...step=2&id=1810

[jhulmer]

I basically followed Mainsails schematic when I rewired may boat a month or so ago.

I decided to make my own buss bars because I had the copper bar and I wanted something different from what I could find.

One solution I want to share is tinning the bar copper. I purchased a bottle of paste solder from McMaster Carr and used it to tin my buss bars.

This took some trial and error. The best way is to use a propane torch and heat the copper just hot enough to melt a small test spot of paste solder on a corner and then brush the whole buss bare with a small acid brush dipped liberally in the past solder. keep brushing until the copper cools enough that the solder quits melting and you will have a tinned buss bar. Not real shiny but functional.
https://www.mcmaster.com/7683a3

I also added the new Balmar SG200 and I like it a lot. I am waiting on delivery of the Bluetooth module now.

Jim

[sailah]

Originally Posted by jhulmer

I basically followed Mainsails schematic when I rewired may boat a month or so ago.

I decided to make my own buss bars because I had the copper bar and I wanted something different from what I could find.

One solution I want to share is tinning the bar copper. I purchased a bottle of paste solder from McMaster Carr and used it to tin my buss bars.

This took some trial and error. The best way is to use a propane torch and heat the copper just hot enough to melt a small test spot of paste solder on a corner and then brush the whole buss bare with a small acid brush dipped liberally in the past solder. keep brushing until the copper cools enough that the solder quits melting and you will have a tinned buss bar. Not real shiny but functional.
https://www.mcmaster.com/7683a3

I also added the new Balmar SG200 and I like it a lot. I am waiting on delivery of the Bluetooth module now.

Jim

Jim, that's some tidy wiring, love it, well done sir. Thanks for the info on the tinning, hadn't thought of that. I do have plenty of paste solder, I might try it on a scrap piece and see how it goes.

Been plugging away on mine. Lots of little details but it all takes time. Had to machine lots of spacers on the lathe to get things to line up so that the fuses sit flat, lathe and some brass bar stock make quick work of that.

I started working on the cable routing as best as I can for now. I'm waiting on the actual cable and some more lugs to arrive before I commit permanently to the layout.

Own an industrial Zebra label printer which prints on super high tech labels so thought I would make up some quick idiot directions, for that idiot in our lives we all know, yep me. Also bought a Brother labeler with special labels for cables and some clear shrink wrap, will see how that looks once I start buildings cables.

Mocked up a quick Lexan cover, not happy with how it came out but it's easy enough to bend in a vice with a heat gun.

I remember one of my first jobs in boating was as a yacht designer for Lyman Morse. I had to make wiring schematics for the owners and it usually meant sitting in mechanical spaces tracing out wiring. Those electricians were just amazing, wish I had their talent for tidiness. I used to revel in chaos, now I just love everything in the right spot, loomed, zip tied, labeled. It's a disease I'm happy to have.

[smac999]

MRBF fuse holders bolt directly to the bus bars. not only used on battery posts. easiest way to fuse wires leaving buses.

[jhulmer]

Originally Posted by sailah

Jim, that's some tidy wiring, love it, well done sir. Thanks for the info on the tinning, hadn't thought of that. I do have plenty of paste solder, I might try it on a scrap piece and see how it goes.

Been plugging away on mine. Lots of little details but it all takes time. Had to machine lots of spacers on the lathe to get things to line up so that the fuses sit flat, lathe and some brass bar stock make quick work of that.

I started working on the cable routing as best as I can for now. I'm waiting on the actual cable and some more lugs to arrive before I commit permanently to the layout.

Own an industrial Zebra label printer which prints on super high tech labels so thought I would make up some quick idiot directions, for that idiot in our lives we all know, yep me. Also bought a Brother labeler with special labels for cables and some clear shrink wrap, will see how that looks once I start buildings cables.

Mocked up a quick Lexan cover, not happy with how it came out but it's easy enough to bend in a vice with a heat gun.

I remember one of my first jobs in boating was as a yacht designer for Lyman Morse. I had to make wiring schematics for the owners and it usually meant sitting in mechanical spaces tracing out wiring. Those electricians were just amazing, wish I had their talent for tidiness. I used to revel in chaos, now I just love everything in the right spot, loomed, zip tied, labeled. It's a disease I'm happy to have.

Thank you, It takes some effort and it is still not perfect but I did set out with a very neat and organized plan. My last boat was a wiring nightmare. I did manage to add some sanity to it by the time I put it up for sale. It turned out to be a selling point the new owner really liked. So it paid off.

I had an DYMO Rhino 4200 label maker and you can buy heat-shrink label stock up to 3/4". I was able to use it for most of the wiring. I have stick on labels on the bigger wires. I like the idea of covering them with clear heat-shrink.

I added a couple more pictures just for fun. The first one is of the Battery compartment with the new Smart Shunt installed. The other is of the new panel cabinet. I still have some work to do before launch but it's getting there.

Cheers,
Jim