6vdc Trojan T105 (225ah) Equalization

[rgleason]

I ordered the Tekpower TP3010E with 0-30volts and 0-10amps

I had read that the 5 amp version would be a little underpowered for my 225ah batteries. The linear power supplies (the 5a version) are generally more accurate, so use your meter when using switching power supplies.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by rgleason

How do I fully charge each battery separately?

Charge at 12V (14.7) until trailing amps falls to between .01 - .005C. This is the normal charge to Full (whenever possible) for daily cycling.

Then separate into 6V and

(optional) do that again but using 7.35V

reason is the remote possibility the string(s) were so unbalanced that one may demand (accept) a higher current at EqV than you want to inflict on your smaller 6V charger.

If you want, use a hydrometer for following the Specific Gravity specs, otherwise

set Eq V to 8.1 and start, noting max amps accepted in the first seconds. Run until trailing amps falls

to between .005C, or

stops falling for an hour, or

you hit 4 hours

Resting V (and/or SG) after isolating 24+hrs should be very close on all batteries.

if not, parallel pairs and run the Eq cycle again, doing that in the first place next time would be fine long as max amps accepted were well within the small chargers limit.

[OceanPlanet]

Just don't forget that when charging together @ 14+V, be sure to monitor the individual voltages and don't drive either one over 7.35V. If one tops off much before the other then reduce the charger voltage to only high enough to hold the higher pack @ 7.35. After the current is down to 1A or so,disconnect the series connection and connect the 6V packs in parallel. If you don't have a 6V charger, just let them sit connected in parallel for a day or so.

Then reconnect in series and try again with the 12V charger....

Repeat as necessary. Or buy a 6V charger (or adjustable power supply that can limit to 7.35V).

[rgleason]

Thank you john61ct I will follow that routine, keeping notes and advise re results.

Bruce, just saw this
"Just don't forget that when charging together @ 14+V, be sure to monitor the individual voltages and don't drive either one over 7.35V."


I have not been checking this, will do so. Thanks. (reason: the two batteries have different characteristics for accepting charge)

[rgleason]

I found that the Balmar ARS-5 can do equalization by programming it in Advanced mode, however Balmar says this should be done at the dock with the proper variable power supply.

Battery Equalization
Due to the hazardous nature of equalization (the intentional overcharging of batteries to remove sulfation from the battery
plates) we strongly recommend that the process be done at the dock with a voltage-adjustable shorepower charger. If it is
absolutely impossible to do so, equalization can be done with the alternator and regulator by doing the following:
1. In Advanced programming, Pra, change the following values.
2. Cl to a voltage above the desired equalize voltage.
3. AHL to a voltage above the desired equalize voltage.
4. Bv to the desired equalize voltage.
5. Blc to the desired equalize time.
6. Disconnect ALL battery temperature sensors.
7. YOU MUST MONITOR THE BATTERIES DURING EQUALIZE PROCESS!
8. Once the equalization is complete, activate the regulator’s basic programming and reset the battery program
mode to UFP, and allow the program to save. Once saved, access the basic programming mode again and reset
for the desired battery program.
WARNING: EQUALIZATION IS A MANUAL PROCESS WITH POTENTIAL DANGERS.
DO NOT LEAVE SYSTEM UNATTENDED.

The disadvantage of this is I would be "PACK" (attributed to Bruce Schwab) equalizing both 6vdc in series rather than individually. I did not do this.


I also tried a very short test of an old sears timed 2a/10a 12v charger and when set on 10 amps with the two 6vdc in series, it was able to drive the voltage up to 15.2 which is when I turned it off as I could hear the bubbling in the batteries.


The Guest charger was left connected to the "Pack" to make sure they are as fully charged as is possible.

[john61ct]

Bubbling is normal and healthy.

Just keep your water level up, no harm done.

Use accurate instruments to keep charging volts within specs and to know when to stop.

[rgleason]

Thanks.

"...until trailing amps falls to between .01 - .005C."
or stops falling for an hour
or 4 hrs max

So I measure the amps with the multimeter, I assume. Amps are usually ohms.
I am puzzled, what is ".005C" ?

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Thanks.

"...until trailing amps falls to between .01 - .005C."
or stops falling for an hour
or 4 hrs max

So I measure the amps with the multimeter, I assume. Amps are usually ohms.
I am puzzled, what is ".005C" ?

An ammeter measures amps, ohms is resistance.

Clamping type useful for portability.

Cheap inline ones aren't usually as accurate as the pricier shunt-based ones, both need to be sized to withstand maximum possible current, or protect with a fuse.

.005C is half an amp per 100AH capacity, .01A is double that.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Wow, I have some pros helping. Thank you.
Ok so I get a separate tool for Equalizing that is 10A x 30V adjustable.
How do I fully charge each battery separately? Use the same tool following Trojan Tables for charging? My Guest is for 12v.

Once you have a bench top power supply, and if spending the money going to 30V X 20A is a good option, you simply wire the two batteries in parallel and charge to 7.4V and allow the current to taper. Once current at 7.4V is done dropping/declining you simply set the power supply for 15.5V to 16.2V temp compensated for battery temp.

TIP: With the Mastech etc. you need to set your target voltage without a load. In other words power it up without the battery connected and adjust to 7.4V (confirm with a DVM). Now shut it down and connect it to the battery. Setting it with a load on it means it will not be accurate at 8-10A due to any wiring voltage drop. More expensive power supplies feature a voltage sensing circuit but this is really not necessary if you set them with the above instructions.

TIP: Don't run your 10A power supply at more than about 7.5A - 8A continuous..

TIP: If concerned about over EQing, due to being absent minded, a wall timer is a great tool. I have a few that allow me to set 1, 2, 3 or 4 hours with the single press of a button. This way if I get ADHD the timer saves my bacon..

The Mastechs are a decent "value" power supply, I have two of them currently a 30A and a 50A plus a number of others.. I drag my Mastechs around to boat yards etc. and they take the abuse fairly well. Sure, I've killed a few but this is just the cost of doing business.

[rgleason]

Originally Posted by john61ct

An ammeter measures amps, ohms is resistance.

Clamping type useful for portability.

Cheap inline ones aren't usually as accurate as the pricier shunt-based ones, both need to be sized to withstand maximum possible current, or protect with a fuse.

.005C is half an amp per 100AH capacity, .01A is double that.

Right, ohms is resistance. ...Forgot physics.

.005C = 1/2amp/100ah capacity so
Manuf. says 225ah = 225ah/100ah= 2.25 x .5amp = 1.125 amp?
225an = 225ah/100ah=2.15 x 1amp=2.15 amp

So I am looking for it to drop between .01C and .005C
which is a drop to between 2.15amps and 1.125 amps

I was seeing 3.5amp and 2.5amps on the Link10 during the end of an engine run with the Balmar ACS-5.

" both (clamping and inline types) need to be sized to withstand maximum possible current, or protect with a fuse."

I have a Southwire 10040N which will do up to 10 amps DC, but won't that get fried across the + and - of one battery? I assume I stop charging/equalizing for this test and since the instrument is part of the circuit, I could fry the instrument if it is not in the right specs.
Shouldn't I have a resister in series?

[john61ct]

Think 1%, 2.25A or between 1-2A is fine.

Some monitors are based on 200A, 500A shunts to handle cranking engines, winches.

But therefore lower resolution for low current accuracy.

Fluke makes great clamp style but pricey.

Super cheap UT-203, but good enough for many.

[rgleason]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

Once you have a bench top power supply, and if spending the money going to 30V X 20A is a good option, you simply wire the two batteries in parallel and charge to 7.4V and allow the current to taper. Once current at 7.4V is done dropping/declining you simply set the power supply for 15.5V to 16.2V temp compensated for battery temp.

TIP: With the Mastech etc. you need to set your target voltage without a load. In other words power it up without the battery connected and adjust to 7.4V (confirm with a DVM). Now shut it down and connect it to the battery. Setting it with a load on it means it will not be accurate at 8-10A due to any wiring voltage drop. More expensive power supplies feature a voltage sensing circuit but this is really not necessary if you set them with the above instructions.

TIP: Don't run your 10A power supply at more than about 7.5A - 8A continuous..

TIP: If concerned about over EQing, due to being absent minded, a wall timer is a great tool. I have a few that allow me to set 1, 2, 3 or 4 hours with the single press of a button. This way if I get ADHD the timer saves my bacon..

The Mastechs are a decent "value" power supply, I have two of them currently a 30A and a 50A plus a number of others.. I drag my Mastechs around to boat yards etc. and they take the abuse fairly well. Sure, I've killed a few but this is just the cost of doing business.

Tip #1 "...going to 30V X 20A is a good option" I got a 10a variable power supply. I think I am going to have to charge them first in series with my Guest 12v 10amp. Then wire in parallel and charge again to 7.4v with the Tekpower TP3010 1-30vdc 1-10amp variable power supply Then do the equalization to 8.1v temperature compensated. I might even have to do them separately (not in parallel).

Tip #2 " power it up without the battery connected and adjust to 7.4V (confirm with a DVM)." DVM is a Digital Voltmeter? Yes I think so.
Tip #3 Yes good advice.
Tip #4 Yes, essential to have a timer.

Thanks.

[rgleason]

John,
So it looks like I am going to need a clamping version?

It seems like many of these clamping meters only have AC current measurement with the clamps.
Unitrend UT203 Shows DC current Range 40 A / 400 A

and more specs here "DC Current: 40A / 400A - best accuracy: +/- (2%+3)"
So that should be ok I think.


Having batteries is getting expensive!

[OceanPlanet]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

Once you have a bench top power supply, and if spending the money going to 30V X 20A is a good option, you simply wire the two batteries in parallel and charge to 7.4V and allow the current to taper. Once current at 7.4V is done dropping/declining you simply set the power supply for 15.5V to 16.2V temp compensated for battery temp.

TIP: With the Mastech etc. you need to set your target voltage without a load. In other words power it up without the battery connected and adjust to 7.4V (confirm with a DVM). Now shut it down and connect it to the battery. Setting it with a load on it means it will not be accurate at 8-10A due to any wiring voltage drop. More expensive power supplies feature a voltage sensing circuit but this is really not necessary if you set them with the above instructions.

TIP: Don't run your 10A power supply at more than about 7.5A - 8A continuous..

TIP: If concerned about over EQing, due to being absent minded, a wall timer is a great tool. I have a few that allow me to set 1, 2, 3 or 4 hours with the single press of a button. This way if I get ADHD the timer saves my bacon..

The Mastechs are a decent "value" power supply, I have two of them currently a 30A and a 50A plus a number of others.. I drag my Mastechs around to boat yards etc. and they take the abuse fairly well. Sure, I've killed a few but this is just the cost of doing business.

For the 1st paragraph, I think you forgot to remind him to connect in series again before doing the 15.5V equalization?

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Having batteries is getting expensive!

Yes, many owners of such small banks don't care to try for max longevity, just accept replacing more frequently.

For others "doing it right" becomes a hobby in itself, beyond any economic rationale.