1961 grey marine; voltage regulator

[ketchcng]

I have been using this 1961 gray marine for the last twenty years. I was hoping to get a bit more insight into the charging from the original generator and voltage regulator. The VR is external and has two springs to adjust circuits for amps and volts. Currently, the charging volts does not exceed 13.4 when needed and the amps do not exceed 12 amps. When the batteries are charged and I am motoring the voltage sits at about 12.4 and the Amps cycle between -7 amps from my blower motor and positive 5 amps charging. The colts stay about the same at 12.4. Does this sound about right?

I have a blue seas automatic charge relay but have stopped using it as it has a narrow window for low or high bolts and it connects and disconnects my batteries over and over where the generator seems to not be able to keep up with what the batteries actually need. Now I charge combined and isolate at anchor.

Thanks
Christian.

[deblen]

You may find some advice among the antique auto crowd. Generators & their voltage regulators have not been widely used since the ,60s.

Cheers/Len


http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/83.cfm

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by ketchcng

I have been using this 1961 gray marine for the last twenty years. I was hoping to get a bit more insight into the charging from the original generator and voltage regulator. The VR is external and has two springs to adjust circuits for amps and volts. Currently, the charging volts does not exceed 13.4 when needed and the amps do not exceed 12 amps. When the batteries are charged and I am motoring the voltage sits at about 12.4 and the Amps cycle between -7 amps from my blower motor and positive 5 amps charging. The colts stay about the same at 12.4. Does this sound about right?

I have a blue seas automatic charge relay but have stopped using it as it has a narrow window for low or high bolts and it connects and disconnects my batteries over and over where the generator seems to not be able to keep up with what the batteries actually need. Now I charge combined and isolate at anchor.

Thanks
Christian.

Posting a picture of the regulator may help us to understand exactly what you have.

The ones I'm familiar with do not regulate the generator current, they only regulate generator output voltage. That is done by the 'voltage' relay (coil) inside the regulator. The other relay/coil inside the regulator is the reverse current relay and its function is to prevent reverse current through the generator (making it a motor) when power is applied and the generator is stationary.

Without knowing what model generator, what size blower and what batteries, the number's you posted sound kind of right although the 12.4 seems a bit low if there is only a small load on the battery while the generator is on line.

[mvweebles]

Gray Marine marinized Detroit 6-71s. Find CF member "Lepke" either on CF or on TrawlerForum. He knows DDs very well. Might be able to convert to an Alternator.

[capt jgw]

Well my boats not quite that old, 1973. The VR's were the old square ones, I believe from GM cars. Both were inop. I took one into the local NAPA store and the counter man told me "we can get those, but you won't want to pay the price". I went from there down the street to a starter-alternator shop and bought two rebuilt marine internally regulated alts. Problem solved.

[Jammer]

You may find that your setup would work better if you adjust the regulator for a little more voltage. This is achieved by bending the contacts on the voltage relay closer together. Typically they wear with use and the output voltage drops and so adjustment becomes necessary. Usually the contacts are sanded or filed a little first, then the adjustment is made.



As Wotname points out, the Gray Marine regulator from the 1960s is a two coil device that has a cutout relay (to disconnect the armature when the engine stops) and a voltage relay (to prevent overvoltage). Regulators with a third relay that limited current were also made.


Aftermarket drop-in solid state regulators are available and inexpensive, and are a good choice to consider if museum-level originality is not one of your goals. They would be compatible with your existing generator or alternator (as the case may be) and be of a similar shape, size, and appearance to your existing regulator.

[ketchcng]

My water pump is connected directly to a spindle coming out of my generator so changing to an alternator has added complexity. I would love a solid state product, can you suggest one?

In the meantime I will adjust the voltage a bit higher. Just to clarify, I would bend and reduce the tension on the voltage spring for voltage to increase correct?

[GordMay]

From: Classic Car Automotive Electrical Systems

How [mechanical] Voltage Regulators Work
➥ Design and Function of Classic Car Voltage Regulators

How Generators and Alternators Work
➥ Design and Function of Automotive Generators and Alternators


This is a solid state replacement, for the factory mechanical point type unit, used on early GM alternators, from 1962 through 1972.
➥ https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/ite...Regulators.htm

[Wotname]

Usually by adjusting the air gap of the armature of the voltage relay. Look for an adjusting screw.

Lots of info on Youtube. Here is one of many

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxK4GaK1wNg

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by ketchcng

My water pump is connected directly to a spindle coming out of my generator so changing to an alternator has added complexity. I would love a solid state product, can you suggest one?

It's been many years since I've bought one, so I can't suggest a specific one. The general links others have posted may be helpful. Web sites for older tractors, cars, military vehicles, and aircraft may be useful.

As a rule the regulators are all electrically similar and interchange broadly.

In the meantime I will adjust the voltage a bit higher. Just to clarify, I would bend and reduce the tension on the voltage spring for voltage to increase correct?

The exact means of change varies from one regulator to the next and I don't know the specifics of yours. I would ordinarily expect that you would increase the spring tension for higher voltage, or move the contacts farther apart. Usually this is done by carefully bending a component. Sometimes there's an adjusting screw.

[Wotname]

To increase the regulated voltage, you have to make it harder (i.e. requires more electromagnetic force) for the voltage relay to actuate.

The two most adjustable parameters to vary the EM force required to operate are

1. the air gap between the relay pole face and the armature face. Increasing air gap increases regulated voltage.

2. the spring tension holding the armature in the relaxed position. Increasing the spring tension (that holds the armature relaxed) increases the regulated voltage.

The are some minor parameters that affect the regulated voltage like gap between the relay contacts but mostly the adjustment is done by #1 or #2.

[ketchcng]

Thanks for all the help. I will adjust and look for a solid state regulator as well.