450: The shower pump slurp

[rspott]

We have great whale pumps for our showers as do others in our 450. We also had them in our last boat, an FP Lavezzi. Zero maintenance.

However, has anyone figured out how to lessen the slurping sound the pump makes when activated during a shower?

Just curious, the sound doesn’t bother us too much but if there is a trick to fix it I am all ears!

[CaptTom]

There's been quite a discussion on this recently:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...mp-236156.html

My own take? Those diaphragm pumps are great. Yeah, they make a funny noise. But you're in the shower, not sleeping. Even if someone else is sleeping, the potable water pump and other normal shower noises will probably be more likely to wake them than the shower drain pump.

I see complaints about noise from refrigerators, anchor and dock lines, fenders, air conditioners and all the other normal boat noises. To me, anything which indicates the boat's systems are working correctly is good to hear.

I suspect some folks haven't learned not to let innocent noises bother them. Or maybe years of having somewhat rowdy neighbors made me appreciate those less obnoxious sounds.

[hpeer]

That slurp is how I know it’s working. Think of it as the boat whispering in your ear it OK. When you DON’T year it you have a problem. If you can NEVER hear it it’s a bit like being numb to your own feelings.

It’s a zen thing, become one with the boat.

[B73C]

The slurp noise doesn't bother me as much as having to hit the button two or three (or five) times to empty the sump. If you don't get it all then dirty/sudsy water can sit under the duckboard and be hard to clean later.

I've seen the boxes where the shower will freely drain into it's own sump, where a 'bilge' pump with it's own float switch will then empty that box.

Anybody have pros and cons on a retrofit like that?

EDIT: Ah, just followed the previously mention link which answers most of my questions...

[rspott]

Originally Posted by B73C

The slurp noise doesn't bother me as much as having to hit the button two or three (or five) times to empty the sump. If you don't get it all then dirty/sudsy water can sit under the duckboard and be hard to clean later.

I've seen the boxes where the shower will freely drain into it's own sump, where a 'bilge' pump with it's own float switch will then empty that box.

Anybody have pros and cons on a retrofit like that?

EDIT: Ah, just followed the previously mention link which answers most of my questions...

That is an easy fix.

Just replace the time solenoid with a standard on-off one. It fits the exact same mount as the timer one.

Then replace the push button switch with an on-off toggle switch.

[steve450]

The back flow noise and water spout is caused by the inlet reed valve not closing all the way so try cleaning the reed valve to remove debris then while the bottom piece is off fill it with water and check if it is holding water if not you will need to replace the bottom housing or fit a extra one way valve inline

[steve450]

As for the shower relay which runs for 17 sec it can be replaced by a adjustable relay so you can set the running time to what you need ours is set at 50 sec you can buy them on ebay for about $10 Aus you should buy a couple for spares

[rspott]

Originally Posted by steve450

As for the shower relay which runs for 17 sec it can be replaced by a adjustable relay so you can set the running time to what you need ours is set at 50 sec you can buy them on ebay for about $10 Aus you should buy a couple for spares

I just replaced the momentary switch and timer relay with an on-off switch and normal relay.

The whale pumps are runnable dry so damage from short periods with no water is limited.

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by rspott

I just replaced the momentary switch and timer relay with an on-off switch and normal relay.

The whale pumps are runnable dry so damage from short periods with no water is limited.

Weak in electrics (!) and haven't gotten to these projects yet; can you tell me what switch and relay you used and where you found them? Are these fount at electrical supply places?


Thx!

[rspott]

You can get 12VDC relays and water-proof switches at most any automotive parts store.

The relay:
make sure it can handle a high load amperage. I sized mine for 30-40A. Here is an Amazon item you can match to: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E358KEG

The switch:
any 12VDC switch that is waterproof. This is a low amperage switch as it simply controls the relay. You can even keep the momentary switch in there if you like, but you will have to hold it in to keep the pump running!

Another Amazon example: https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Toggl.../dp/B01IYD8SHQ

The waterproof part is just a rubber cover/condom that fits over a standard toggle switch.

How to replace:
To replace the relay just pull the old relay out of the socket and replace it with the relay you now have. You can push the old button in and hear the pump run to verify things are correct.

Owners side:
The relay is under the sink in the 2015 450F.
in the Starboard forward locker. You will find a round hatch between the locker and the shower. Inside that round inspection hatch is the back of the switch. Remove the existing switch and put in the new one. You may need to drill the hole larger. Be careful not to drop the wiring as it may be difficult to retrieve.

Port side:
Both relays are in the aft head inside the cabinet under the sink. Look near the bottom of the opening.
The switches, and access to them, are obvious on this side.

Hope this helps!

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by rspott

You can get 12VDC relays and water-proof switches at most any automotive parts store.

The relay:
make sure it can handle a high load amperage. I sized mine for 30-40A. Here is an Amazon item you can match to: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E358KEG

The switch:
any 12VDC switch that is waterproof. This is a low amperage switch as it simply controls the relay. You can even keep the momentary switch in there if you like, but you will have to hold it in to keep the pump running!

Another Amazon example: https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Toggl.../dp/B01IYD8SHQ

The waterproof part is just a rubber cover/condom that fits over a standard toggle switch.

How to replace:
To replace the relay just pull the old relay out of the socket and replace it with the relay you now have. You can push the old button in and hear the pump run to verify things are correct.

Owners side:
The relay is under the sink in the 2015 450F.
in the Starboard forward locker. You will find a round hatch between the locker and the shower. Inside that round inspection hatch is the back of the switch. Remove the existing switch and put in the new one. You may need to drill the hole larger. Be careful not to drop the wiring as it may be difficult to retrieve.

Port side:
Both relays are in the aft head inside the cabinet under the sink. Look near the bottom of the opening.
The switches, and access to them, are obvious on this side.

Hope this helps!

What a great answer; thanks so much!
The one thing I don't understand is the purpose of the relay. According to the definition I got (see next sentence), it's just another switch, but if you have an on/off switch, why have a second?

Relays are switches controlled by electrical power, like another switch, computer or control module. The purpose of a relay is to automate this power to switch electrical circuits on and off at particular times.



Thanks!

[DK2]

Relays are typically used to switch a high current with a low current switch. Think solenoid in an engine starter motor situation. The starter motor takes a very high current and huge cables and you couldn’t switch that directly with a tiny ignition switch.