I don't know the exact configuration of everything which you have bolted to the bow, but there is a generic multihull
fix for these types of issues. You bolt a thick, oversized plate onto each bow, which overhangs the bows on the inboard side. And you can mount another cleat to each plate in the most advantageous position, along with a set of chocks/fairleads, & a pair of high load blocks.
I've seen numerous setups like this. With them often being about 1'x1.5' (or more), & 1/2" - 3/4" thick.
This way, you've got room to mount all sorts of hardware
. As well as to be able to route
lines over the bows, sans chafing. Like bridles for instance. It also gives you a set of monster sized cleats mounted to your best advantage, who's load footprint is spread over pretty much the entire area of the plates which contacts the bows. And, you can drill & tap the plate for other hardware
later on if you choose. That, or through bolt things to it, using it's below deck's backing plate to distribute the bolting loads.
Note that also, that if you have any super strong hardware up forward, you can attach blocks to it/them via Spectra lashings, or loops. Including by simply cow hitching the loop around the leg of a stout cleat. And said loop could even have a low friction ring spliced into one end, so that you could use it as a fairlead for other lines.
For a chafe free attachment of a bridle to the top bail of a mooring ball, you can simply splice, or luggage tag, both legs of a bridle to a Sparcraft or Tylaska, trigger shackle. This along with a 2ndary line attached to the ball via non-mechanical means, such as with a soft shackle. Specifically, one led through a stainless thimble spliced into the end of a "short" stout, line, that's run over the boat's bow roller, & back to a cleat, as your backup line.
Just keep a couple of fids handy for the trigger shackle. And buy quality shackles for this application, as I've never run into problems with the better ones "releasing" on their own, even when being flogged without mercy, on the clew of the spinnaker
of a 50'er. That said, inspect them regularly.
Realistically though, you're not going to wear out any lines connecting you to the ball without some warning. Given that they bear regular checking, as much, or more than any other bits of running rigging
that's in use. Albeit I can easily think up a dozen more ways to cut down on chafe on these lines. Most all of them being common sense "fixes".