400: Lagoon curved saloon windows

[MARMCA400]

Good day all,

I am looking to hear from any Lagoon 400 owners who have removed and rebedded a curved saloon window.
I know there is a thread on a similar issue with the 450, but it is from a number of years ago. Since then I'm wondering if any more boats have been worked on.

Look forward to hearing from folks

[meirriba]

I had it done by a guy (with lot of experience in hatch work) in Marmaris/Turkey.
The port window sprung open. He took it out and rebedded it. After putting it back in place, he put outside a wood contraption pressing it in place against its inherent wish to straighten itself out of position. This was removed after 3 days or so. The window is fine for three years now.
He was very afraid that the window may break during removal but succeeded to take it out without damage.

[ozsailer]

Gday Marmca, I have gone through the process on our old Lagoon 410. Some of the work we did ourselves and the other we had done by Shipwrights. Our front window were starting to come away from the sealant. The shipwrights slowing and carefully used a thin wedge slowing cutting through the sealant. When they had a enough room the placed a thick fishing line through the sealing and then wrapped each end on a round dowel. With a person on the inside and one of the outside they started to pull on the seal with the fishing line and gradually pulled though the sealant and moved the wedge as they went. When the windows were removed we then removed all the sealant still around the window frames.
We chose to go with standard poly carbonate as it does not scratch or mark as Lexican does. We just took it to a Plastic cutter and he was able to bend and cut it to shape then drill out the required holes.
The shipwrights fitted the new plexiglass and I refitted the hatches. To hold the plexiglass in place the shipwright cut several elongated pieces of timber approixmate 150mm long and 25mm about 12mm thick. A small hole that fitted a large screw was drill in the centre of the timber. Its then a case of once fitted on the sealant place the timber equally on either edge of the frame and plexiglass and screw into the space between the frame and the plexiglass. Do this for the 8 or so timber supports around each window. Leave for a couple of days then remove the screw and timber. The adhesive should then be cured at this stage and hold everything in place.
Make sure you tape around the frame and the plexiglass to stop sealant spreading on the new window and frames fo the boat.



Greg H
Lagoon 440.
Oz

[ggray]

Can you tell me what sealant is normally used to secure these windows?

I have a slight water leak presumably from a narrow crack or crevice in the black sealant bedding the window. I'd like to force a compatible sealant into this crevice to see if that won't help. Polysulfide?

The boat is nearly 20 years old so I know the windows will need to be replaced before too many years, but not yet, I hope.

[slug]

Sika is commonly used

To remove window you use a “ cheese cutter “ wire window removal tool available at any auto supply shop

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pro...-removal-tools

Google it

Follow the instructions for bedding

https://www.toplicht.de/pdf/en/SIKA.PDF

https://usa.sika.com/dms/getdocument...%20Windows.pdf

[chris mac]

I would suggest not to stuff in more sealant. If its cracking, the whole deal will be deteriorating. Remove the window, clean it and the hull thoroughly. Then rebed with new sikaflex.
I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it's the only way the leaks will really stop. I just did 2 on my lagoon 42 tpi. 2-3 hours each window.

[MARMCA400]

Thank you everyone for you valuable input.

I'll check out the links and products provided. Anyone have any photos of the process they would share?

[ggray]

Thanks for the suggestions!