450: Lagoon 450 Windlass Quick,Dylan FAIL

[Darksyde]

Same issue today,

Dylan gets slower and slower.... and the motor is hot

try to find a solution in Lefkas here.

I will report

M

[Catapault]

Originally Posted by On The Brink

Just a quick followup...our chain counter was the same. It would work and then not. Finally got fed up with it not working and pulled it out and installed a simple up/down switch. I like the Keep It Super Simple method.

Jeanette

This is seriously starting to appeal for the remote at the Helm.

Can you share where you wired it to, and how ran the wires back please ?

When med-mooring here I really need control of the windlass whilst my wife is dealing with docklines astern. Not running from bow to stern and back !.

I have a crap workaround atm, but its frustrating !!. (With no sensor, if you push the stop button, the windless remote will work for about 5m, then stop again... push stop again to repeat etc).

Regards

Mark.

[Emerald Sea]

Im sure a number of Quick owners have had their helm control stop working as a result of needing to replace the sensor/magnet at the windlass. Ive replaced this sensor and/or magnet 4 times now and this last time, only 4 months ago that I replaced the magnet/sensor, its failed yet again. The magnet is ferrous mild steel it had completely rusted out losing its magnetic ability. It was an easy drill out of the old one but this time I enlarged the hole slightly and installed the replacement magnet saturated with silicone sealant. I though about adding Tefgel but one needs to also secure it in place. Yes its functioning again and I hope it yields a longer life.

[Catapault]

Thanks Steve, Good tip on the magnet. Will give it a try.

Regards

Mark.

[Bean Counter]

This is an interesting thread. The Quick on the L450 is a 1700W. The anchor supplied by Lagoon is a 25Kg Delta. I would have thought the Quick would have no problem hauling this. We however have a 40Kg Rocna, so quite a bit heavier and a serious load of mud and weed can accumulate on the blade of this anchor. In the last 3 years anchoring in mud and sand usually the winch has never broken down. Sometimes it struggles to lift when the anchor has dived deep into the mud (Chesapeake Bay). Our solution has been to always drive forward in idle, until chain is vertical. Then drive forward (not using windlass), then reverse back over anchor and raising the chain, this puts least amount of stress on windlass motor and the anchor is levered out by the boat movement. I guess a bigger spec windlass may be needed for the bigger anchor, but so far so good - touch wood.

[PaulinOz]

Going from 25 kg to 40 kg is an increase of 15kg the 13mm chain weighs nearly 3 to 4kg a meter so just like anchoring with an extra 4 meters of chain out. I do not believe the extra 15 kg is a contributing factor.

Now to my problem had the dread Quick motor go slow problem. Motor off and full of oil and carbon black mixture.

Cleaned all up and replaced still no go fast.

Taken to auto electrician, pulling 100 amps no load and not running correctly.

He soldered all the brush and winding connections dressed brushes and commutator all good as new. Pulling 30 amps no load. Motor now works fine.

PROBLEM:Gearbox now out need to replace seal and can find no information on type or quantity of oil to put into gearbox any ideas.

[PaulinOz]

Thanks to the tireless help of Steve450, I now have a working Quick 1700W anchor winch. The start of the issues seemed to have stemmed from a bad connection in the motor between brushes and winding's. This then seems to have led to excessive current draw (100 amps un-loaded) causing the rear reduction gear box seal to fail.

Removal of the motor involves two only nuts, but they seem to have silicon sealed the motor to the gearbox for some reason which involves a lot of brute strength and wriggling while laying in the anchor well area in an awkward position. Be careful not to drop the key in the motor shaft into the chain locker, don't ask how I know it is a bitch to find again.

Once motor is outside hanging on the cables the plastic outer shroud can be removed and cables undone to reveal the motor.

The gearbox hangs bellow the windlass on 4 x 17mm nuts, it drops out fairly easily, just awkward position to access.

So cost to repair $120 AUD to Auto electrician to re-solder all connections in motor and re-surface commutator and brushes.

$7.60 for rear seal of gear box.

Plus 500 ml of SAE 90 gearbox oil.

When I drained it only 220ml came out and with no data that I could find anywhere on fill amount, they seem to imply it is a replacement if faulty item (which is ridiculous) we filled it till just overflowed back out of filler hole on side when level which turned out to be 500 ml.

Now runs between 29 and 30 meters a minute in both directions. People say there unit is running slower than normal, what speed though?

The helm remote, if you push the menu button will display the battery voltage at the relay / time and date / speed of chain movement. So If you did not know read the instructions and have look while it is working normal, so in the future if you think it is going slower you will know for sure. I was down to 6 meters a minute before pulling unit apart to repair.

Replacement motor in Oz is $800 plus AUD.

[Darksyde]

We found the Problem

In our case it was a cable in the motor that was not thick enough and gets loose

Fixed

[Krabimike]

Hmm well I am sitting in the Seychelles, I have followed this tread as at times it seemed my windlass was running slow/weak.
I have put the anchor down 178 times since new. Always use a bridle and good maintenance.

Today anchored in 15m with 50 meters out and went to raise the chain, it moved very slow, ( understand still hanging on the bridle no pressure at all) then when it got to the bridle it just stopped. Click Click Click is all I got no up no down. I went to check the connections and noticed the motor was really warm. For so little of time. That doesn't seem good.

2 Questions.
1. Creative ways to pick up 50m of chain and a Rocha 33 at 15 - 20 meters?

2. What the hell do I do now? Lol!
I have not found the Seychelles to be the easy place to find shops.

[Catapault]

Originally Posted by Krabimike

Hmm well I am sitting in the Seychelles, I have followed this tread as at times it seemed my windlass was running slow/weak.
I have put the anchor down 178 times since new. Always use a bridle and good maintenance.

Today anchored in 15m with 50 meters out and went to raise the chain, it moved very slow, ( understand still hanging on the bridle no pressure at all) then when it got to the bridle it just stopped. Click Click Click is all I got no up no down. I went to check the connections and noticed the motor was really warm. For so little of time. That doesn't seem good.

2 Questions.
1. Creative ways to pick up 50m of chain and a Rocha 33 at 15 - 20 meters?

2. What the hell do I do now? Lol!
I have not found the Seychelles to be the easy place to find shops.

Pretty sure you're not going to like the answer...

1. - 2 Lines, Rolling Hitches, a couple of Winches, and much swearing... (much the same as you'd recover a series drouge).
Can do it with one line / winch, if you have a way to brake the chain as you reposition the hitch.
If you have a Chain-claw, will be quicker, but still not going to be fun..

On 450F I'd use the two Genoa Winches, not sure on the S.


2. - First check the brushes in the motor, they might be worn. Though as the motor is warm, sounds more like windings issues.
- Double Check the voltage getting to the Motor (right on the terminals), and any relevant connection to see if something has come loose.

Any 1/2 decent auto/boat sparky should be able to strip the motor, check the windings and brushes etc. (Spares might be another issue).
I had mine rebuit in Rhodes Greece last year and now its working well. (fingers crossed !).

Hope that helps.

Regards

Mark.

[Two Drifters]

So the motor Sounds shot. Could be the brushes as mentioned before.

But if you need parts it will take time.

To make the windlass manual drop the gear box off. This will allow the gypsy to free wheel. Hopefully you have a slot in the drum that takes a winch handle.

Obviously this free wheels up and down so you need someone on the helm to take the pressure off and. Have a carabeener on a line handy to snag the chain and take a turn round a cleat when you need a breather.

Also shallow anchorages help

[Bean Counter]

Your anchor operations manual describes the method of weighing anchor manually for Quick see attached.

[Krabimike]

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. Have determined it's the motor. Will pull it off and have it diagnosed. Will update.for the record I have recorded every anchor set 178 times since August of 2016. Hoping for a good warranty outcome.. will see.

[Catapault]

Originally Posted by Krabimike

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. Have determined it's the motor. Will pull it off and have it diagnosed. Will update.for the record I have recorded every anchor set 178 times since August of 2016. Hoping for a good warranty outcome.. will see.

That is some dedicated logging !. We are trying to be that diligent with the log, but for some reason it just dosn't happen...

[Millerslocal]

Mike,

If you are needing spares the Quick dealer in South Africa is Manex Power & Marine in Cape Town. They are very efficient and usually carry some stock. Contact Gary Sindler there. Don't think courier fee's to Seychelles should be too pricey, and delivery should be prompt - only a 6hr flight from Cape Town to Seychelles.

We sold our Quick to a friend after it gave us trouble and bought a Lofrans X3. Our friend serviced the Quick and replaced the brushes and so far it's holding up fine for him (he has 10mm chain vs our 13mm chain and an anchor that's 20kg lighter than ours).

Hope you come right!

Kerry