450: Just signed on a new 450s!

[rspott]

Originally Posted by boom23

I installed an alarm siren there... You can run the cables from the antenna to the stbd forward end of the hardtop. There are enough access panels, or speaker openings, under the hardtop. From inside the salon, on the aft stbd corner there is the top cabinet with an access panel facing aft and (I believe) another panel facing up. Once you run the wires to there, you just drop them to reach behind the panel. It is very doable. I did it myself but that was about 6 years ago. You just have to start opening access panels in the direction you want to go.

Good luck.

Thanks for the advice.

I opened things up and now have cable along the black line.

However, I am seriously blocked from the red circle to the promised land of a great cable chase down the hull.

I am tempted to put in a 6” round screw cover access hatch where the blue arrow is pointing. (the ceiling above the cabinet where the ice maker/optional fridge goes and the floor of the flybridge)

Has anyone done this retrofit? is there as mischief space between the two layers of fiberglass (the floor of the flybridge /ceiling of cockpit)?

[boom23]

Originally Posted by rspott

Thanks for the advice.

I opened things up and now have cable along the black line.

However, I am seriously blocked from the red circle to the promised land of a great cable chase down the hull.

I am tempted to put in a 6” round screw cover access hatch where the blue arrow is pointing. (the ceiling above the cabinet where the ice maker/optional fridge goes and the floor of the flybridge)

Has anyone done this retrofit? is there as mischief space between the two layers of fiberglass (the floor of the flybridge /ceiling of cockpit)?

Attachment 206368

Attachment 206369

Open the cabinet in the salon and remove all the back and top panels. Find out where the wires from the flybridge wires are located.

Also, remove the light next to your red circle. Run a stiff wire through it until you see it, or hear it, from the inside cabinet. When you see this wire, use it as a guide for the wires you want to run.

There is a way. You just have to get creative. It has been too long for me to remember all the details. I do remember that it is doable without cutting any holes. Maybe some else will provide more info.

A cheap USB endoscope from Amazon (like this one: USB Endoscope) can help see behind things.

[Ulstue]

Originally Posted by davedindubai

you recommend a better product available in Greece?

If it is clean and salt-free, wax is a good conserving agent for all metals. But I don't know if it is really necessary to preserve the seawater resistant bronze, at least I haven't done so far.

[dcareri]

There is a very a couple of tight squeezes where the stairs to the flybridge and your blue circle are. The mouse line that was in my boat seemed to be wrapped around the electric winch wires which go through the same squeeze. That made the mouse line useless. I did manage to get a couple of solar panel wires through but had to pull like crazy since they are turning in multiple places in different directions. I came very close to putting a removeable panel as you are thinking. I'm also positive I'll get no more wires through that bottle neck without an access port.

[boom23]

Another trick you can do to find the opening is to use a focused beam flashlight at the other end. Have someone move the flashlight until you can see the beam. Then you have approx direction of opening.

You can use this if you don't have an USB endoscope.

[davedindubai]

Hi all, hope everyone is safe and well. I wanted to let you all know that Hayley has started editing video for our YouTube channel again so if you’re in lock down with not much to do, maybe watching us fools might help pass 10 minutes.


https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2n...yaWMkBYpnNN1Rg

[CatPeople]

New Sub-Topic - 450S Boom Starting to Crack


We have a model year 2020 450S and have been sailing her for the last 9 months (in conditions up to 38 kts). Recently discovered that the #1 reef sheave at the aft end of the boom has broken into pieces and one piece wedged between the sheave wheel and the wall of the sheave box. This caused the other sheaves in the box to seize up and not turn. The axle looks bent too. More importantly the boom has a small crack in it and the metal around the crack is distorted. This is at the 90 degree inside corner of the cutout in the boom where the box is located - see the photo. Anyone else experience this? Is there any concern that the crack might worsen even after re-building the sheave box? (in other words once it starts will it continue to crack, perhaps due to salt water intrusion, etc)



We never use the electric winches when doing reefing changes, only hand cranking so we can determine if there is any excessive resistance in the reefing lines when we put in a reef. The factory system is not of a high quality design and the materials of construction are also not the best (plastic sheaves, thin gauge aluminum boom extrusion, flimsy sheave box). It's the WalMart effect applied to boat building I guess.

[arsenelupiga]

Originally Posted by CatPeople

New Sub-Topic - 450S Boom Starting to Crack


We have a model year 2020 450S and have been sailing her for the last 9 months (in conditions up to 38 kts). Recently discovered that the #1 reef sheave at the aft end of the boom has broken into pieces and one piece wedged between the sheave wheel and the wall of the sheave box. This caused the other sheaves in the box to seize up and not turn. The axle looks bent too. More importantly the boom has a small crack in it and the metal around the crack is distorted. This is at the 90 degree inside corner of the cutout in the boom where the box is located - see the photo. Anyone else experience this? Is there any concern that the crack might worsen even after re-building the sheave box? (in other words once it starts will it continue to crack, perhaps due to salt water intrusion, etc)



We never use the electric winches when doing reefing changes, only hand cranking so we can determine if there is any excessive resistance in the reefing lines when we put in a reef. The factory system is not of a high quality design and the materials of construction are also not the best (plastic sheaves, thin gauge aluminum boom extrusion, flimsy sheave box). It's the WalMart effect applied to boat building I guess.

L400 has same setup. Just checked mine and no cracks or broken pieces. We are closing on 30k NM so been into nasty stuff.

My guess, your reefing rope was tangled and caused cracks under stress. Maybe reefing rope too twisted &tangled? Still lots of friction even without it. Always need to keep eye on boom while reefing. Not sure if that is easy with L450S.

I have replaced rope of second and first reef with dyneema so can reef downwind easily and twist is much less of an issue.

[aclmck]

Originally Posted by CatPeople

New Sub-Topic - 450S Boom Starting to Crack


We have a model year 2020 450S and have been sailing her for the last 9 months (in conditions up to 38 kts). Recently discovered that the #1 reef sheave at the aft end of the boom has broken into pieces and one piece wedged between the sheave wheel and the wall of the sheave box. This caused the other sheaves in the box to seize up and not turn. The axle looks bent too. More importantly the boom has a small crack in it and the metal around the crack is distorted. This is at the 90 degree inside corner of the cutout in the boom where the box is located - see the photo. Anyone else experience this? Is there any concern that the crack might worsen even after re-building the sheave box? (in other words once it starts will it continue to crack, perhaps due to salt water intrusion, etc)



We never use the electric winches when doing reefing changes, only hand cranking so we can determine if there is any excessive resistance in the reefing lines when we put in a reef. The factory system is not of a high quality design and the materials of construction are also not the best (plastic sheaves, thin gauge aluminum boom extrusion, flimsy sheave box). It's the WalMart effect applied to boat building I guess.

As you point out something is not right here, yes the crack will get bigger some day the boom may fail, but you say it’s a 2020 model,just call your dealer or lagoon I’m sure you will get a better result, they may even replace the boom, I certainly would, if you have this distortion from a new boat,either something is set up wrong or the boom is faulty,either way you should have some warranty.

I wouldn’t choose to keep using the boom though until you know what’s wrong

[c-reel]

Maybe should be a new topic.
Had same Pb with sheave. No boom crack.
Change the sheaves with better ones (ask Don Green).
Don’t pull your reef lines too much - marking them is key especially at night.
See FB group. Couple of comments on this.

[davedindubai]

Hi ALL,

It's been a while, I hope everyone is ok.
The materials used in the sheaves really are crap, Lagoon, you MUST do better. It seems common practice now thanks to those before us to change our brand new mast head sheaves before we even launch. Guys, if you are buying a new boat... MAKE LAGOON CHANGE THESE BEFORE YOU HAND OVER!

Boom sheaves failing is something I've not heard about from other goonies yet but we've all had trouble in bad weather with lines around the end of the boom. This is one reason I prefer the S over the F as the boom is easy to access.

I suspect that your dealer will just swap out your boom for you. When you get the new one, change to 12mm dyneema. It's so much nicer to work with and you'll thank me for getting rid of the "squeeeek".

[Yatt]

I have been trying for six(!) month before the handover of my new L450F last week to get the sheaves replaced in Les Sables d'Olonne/FR.



Neither Lagoon, nor the rigging company (YachtcareServices) nor my dealer were able to manage the replacement. My dealer told me that YachtcareServices is not willing to replace the sheaves as it would be too much work for them and they do not have time for such "minor issuses".


So I got this crap plastic wheels again and I am hoping to be able to replace them somewhere else.


If you want some extras before the handover - do not buy a Lagoon, buy a Privilege next door - this is what they told me. :-)

[atoll]

Originally Posted by Yatt

I have been trying for six(!) month before the handover of my new L450F last week to get the sheaves replaced in Les Sables d'Olonne/FR.



Neither Lagoon, nor the rigging company (YachtcareServices) nor my dealer were able to manage the replacement. My dealer told me that YachtcareServices is not willing to replace the sheaves as it would be too much work for them and they do not have time for such "minor issuses".


So I got this crap plastic wheels again and I am hoping to be able to replace them somewhere else.


If you want some extras before the handover - do not buy a Lagoon, buy a Privilege next door - this is what they told me. :-)

Rich peoples problems!
just pay a rigger to do the job and get them to inspect the rest of the rig, whilst they are about it,it will save you money in the long run from chewed up halyards and other issues they might find.

[rspott]

Sheaves?

While he is in the US, Don Green is THE man to talk to: https://dreamgreen.org/merimarine

Quick, reasonable and high quality. Already replaced the sheaves on the davits of our 2015 L450F.

My boom sheaves look ok. I’ll be up the mast later this week to inspect the top sheaves later this week.

Search for “Don Green” on this group in Facebook for images and examples: https://www.facebook.com/groups/lagoonownersgroup

[Yatt]

"Rich peoples problems!"


Are all issues regarding catamarans "rich people problems"?