400: Is there an easy way to attach a furler to the bowsprit

[DavefromNZ]

[DavefromNZ]

https://youtu.be/jeBd79fLtjI

[sailjumanji]

I had the zippered tube arrangement on a trimaran screacher. You need a second halyard to hoist. You also need a lacing system to take the bagginess out of the hoisted tube. Otherwise it flogs back and forth like a long flag.

[familysailing]

What type/manufacture/model of continuous furler are you using?

We are looking to add a code 0/screecher and convert our .75 ounce asym and 2.5 ounce aysm to a continuous furler and would welcome advice.


We've heard that the top down furler is the way to go with the asym's, but a code zero works better with the bottom up.

Are they really easier to use than a sock?


Are they better for short handed operation?


What else should consider?


tim and tracey
folie a deux
lagoon 380 #47

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by familysailing

What type/manufacture/model of continuous furler are you using?

We are looking to add a code 0/screecher and convert our .75 ounce asym and 2.5 ounce aysm to a continuous furler and would welcome advice.


We've heard that the top down furler is the way to go with the asym's, but a code zero works better with the bottom up.

Are they really easier to use than a sock?


Are they better for short handed operation?


What else should consider?


tim and tracey
folie a deux
lagoon 380 #47

It is a Fancor FX furler.

We use it shorthanded, one person on the furling loop line midships, one person on the sheet / winch to ease the sail while furling in.

Furling out is doable singlehanded, just open the stop knot to release the furling loop and set the sail by pulling the leeward sheet.

When tacking, we furl in and out on the other side, works good, have not tried yet gybing by taking the sail over the bow, we prefer furling in and out, it is quite easy.

One issue is, when using the code0 you need to operate the sheets port sheet on the helm winch and starboard sheet on the starboard winch, so you need a second person or have to walk around.

[rom]

Well done Dave, nice setup ! I am wondering though if having the spinlock appart from the bowsprit doesn't put too much pressure on it (?)



Also, what is that thing at your anchor/chain junction ?

[DavefromNZ]

Thanks. Yep there is too much strain and wear if I use the spinlock so only do so temporarily otherwise lock the rope on the cleat.

I have the “AnchorRescue” system to recover the anchor if stuck under a rock or cable.

[peterp]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

Hi there,

how do you attach the shackle of your code 0 to the Lagoon bowsprit without falling over board? Is there an easy and safe way to do it?

I have done it in the marina, and it is a pain to reach out and get the shackle through the little hole upfront, I guess it would be quite dangerous to do it on the ocean to attach the code 0 furler without using a bosun chair or something else to secure you from falling off the bow.

On YT I did not found any video that shows the process on properly attaching the head sail to the stick of a Lagoon bowsprit.

What technique do you use?

On passage it may make sense to switch between a Code 0 for light upwind and a Wingaker for downwind sailing, but there is only one halyard, so you need to remove the code 0 before you can fly the Wingaker. It may be a good idea to detach the furler and store the Code 0 down below instead of leaving it attached and down on deck / the trampoline.

I am very curious how you deal with it.

It is quite easy a bit head scratching if no experience, firstly lets deal with the pin, the locking pin is spring loaded and it cannot come out, you simply pull on the pin enough to release it from the locking groove in the main holding shaft, this is where the bungee comes in to play its purpose is to hold up the far end of the bowsprit and at the same time allow enough stretch for you to quite easily pull the bowsprit forward to release the bowsprit from the main holding shaft you then are able to hold the end nearest you whilst the bungee takes the outer weight and slip it under the bottom wire you then have the bowsprit sitting on the tramp with (the bungee still attached) and it is then simple to attach your furler to the end, you then reverse above to refit. Now I found with my Lagoon 400 (since sold) all the above worked fine once I figured out how to do it but over a period of about four years from brand new the locking pin slowly became tighter and tighter to the point it become immovable and useless, so barring buying a brand new bowsprit we had nothing to loose so we drilled out the pin and the internal spring destroying both in the process, we then enlarged the original hole, made a new larger holding pin to fit loosely with a locking clip, both the new locking pin and the holding clip are prevented from falling in the water by a short captive line, my process was a bit of a bush job not as sophisticated as the original but works great and does not bind up, I assume the binding is caused by dissimilar metals in the locking pin and bowsprit. I have attached photo’s I had on file which may help. Not sure if the above problem is unique to my Lagoon 400 or not. I hope my explanation is not too confusing.

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by peterp

It is quite easy a bit head scratching if no experience, firstly lets deal with the pin, the locking pin is spring loaded and it cannot come out, you simply pull on the pin enough to release it from the locking groove in the main holding shaft, this is where the bungee comes in to play its purpose is to hold up the far end of the bowsprit and at the same time allow enough stretch for you to quite easily pull the bowsprit forward to release the bowsprit from the main holding shaft you then are able to hold the end nearest you whilst the bungee takes the outer weight and slip it under the bottom wire you then have the bowsprit sitting on the tramp with (the bungee still attached) and it is then simple to attach your furler to the end, you then reverse above to refit. Now I found with my Lagoon 400 (since sold) all the above worked fine once I figured out how to do it but over a period of about four years from brand new the locking pin slowly became tighter and tighter to the point it become immovable and useless, so barring buying a brand new bowsprit we had nothing to loose so we drilled out the pin and the internal spring destroying both in the process, we then enlarged the original hole, made a new larger holding pin to fit loosely with a locking clip, both the new locking pin and the holding clip are prevented from falling in the water by a short captive line, my process was a bit of a bush job not as sophisticated as the original but works great and does not bind up, I assume the binding is caused by dissimilar metals in the locking pin and bowsprit. I have attached photo’s I had on file which may help. Not sure if the above problem is unique to my Lagoon 400 or not. I hope my explanation is not too confusing.

Thank you very much, that makes sense. My pin does not move either, the vessel is now 5 year old. Seems to be the same issue.

[peterp]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

Thank you very much, that makes sense. My pin does not move either, the vessel is now 5 year old. Seems to be the same issue.

Yes I rather thought that may be the case with all the L400 range, it was a dilemma for me the easy thing was to just order a new bowsprit but if they haven't modified the design the same thing will just happen again, knowing what I know now I would strongly recommend you go to your favourite machine shop and do what I did and drill out the pin and simply make up a modified replacement pin. The bungee set up is simple and works well just get the pin sorted and your done and dusted. I've just spoken to the chap that brought my L400 he will take a couple of pictures of my replacement pin I'll load them later on, they may be useful as a guide, a professional machine shop would be able to do a better job than we did and may suggest a better way, I don't think it would cost that much, hopefully.

[peterp]

OK here is the pictures as promised of my modified retaining pin, hope it is helpfull.

[arsenelupiga]

I have just checked and mine does not move either. Looks like will have to keep practising yoga/taichi while attaching and detaching code 0, ideally at achor. maybe will introduce related music clip in anchorage to make is easier.

great info, thanks Peter. Hope you get lots of fun with your next boat

[peterp]

Thanks arsenelupiga, next boat has big boots to fill, the L400 is such a good over all design.

[c-reel]

Originally Posted by DavefromNZ

Attachment 180359
Attachment 180360

Couldn’t you mount the spinlock directly to the bowsprit?
Would it be enough to tap holes on the thin AL cylinder and screw without bolt under?

[OldGreyB]

Originally Posted by peterp

It is quite easy a bit head scratching if no experience, firstly lets deal with the pin, the locking pin is spring loaded and it cannot come out, you simply pull on the pin enough to release it from the locking groove in the main holding shaft, this is where the bungee comes in to play its purpose is to hold up the far end of the bowsprit and at the same time allow enough stretch for you to quite easily pull the bowsprit forward to release the bowsprit from the main holding shaft you then are able to hold the end nearest you whilst the bungee takes the outer weight and slip it under the bottom wire you then have the bowsprit sitting on the tramp with (the bungee still attached) and it is then simple to attach your furler to the end, you then reverse above to refit. Now I found with my Lagoon 400 (since sold) all the above worked fine once I figured out how to do it but over a period of about four years from brand new the locking pin slowly became tighter and tighter to the point it become immovable and useless, so barring buying a brand new bowsprit we had nothing to loose so we drilled out the pin and the internal spring destroying both in the process, we then enlarged the original hole, made a new larger holding pin to fit loosely with a locking clip, both the new locking pin and the holding clip are prevented from falling in the water by a short captive line, my process was a bit of a bush job not as sophisticated as the original but works great and does not bind up, I assume the binding is caused by dissimilar metals in the locking pin and bowsprit. I have attached photo’s I had on file which may help. Not sure if the above problem is unique to my Lagoon 400 or not. I hope my explanation is not too confusing.

Peterp, The beauty of CF shines again. After doing the leaning forward & monkey gymnastics last week on our new to us 2010 Lagoon 400 to succesfully fly our asymmetrical, I thought there has to a better way and a reason for the bungee and pins. Your description is spot on, and some large amounts of lubrication the whole pin system works wonderfully. Thanks for taking the time years ago to explain the concept.