380 S2: Dyneema rigging

[Trevor Doble]

Originally Posted by Tupaia

He works out of Sydney



Been excellent. Saved in excess of 30kg aloft and very stable.
Dynex Dux overbraided with Dynex finished with hi load stainless thimbles at each end.


I would be interested in how "Peter" has achieved Dyneema furling forestays. I did not think this was possible.

Funnily enough, Mike Strong got back to me and suggested I use Peter Greig as he is close to me (in Port Douglas) and is "the leading exponent for Dux dyneema". So it is now just a case of deciding which is the best way to go!

[Tupaia]

Originally Posted by Trevor Doble

Funnily enough, Mike Strong got back to me and suggested I use Peter Greig as he is close to me (in Port Douglas) and is "the leading exponent for Dux dyneema". So it is now just a case of deciding which is the best way to go!

Please post your thoughts when it is done.

[Trevor Doble]

Originally Posted by Tupaia

Please post your thoughts when it is done.

Will do. Peter is coming to scope it out next week and we will decide whether to go stainless or dyneema after that. He said he can do either.

Appreciate your input.

[Trevor Doble]

Originally Posted by Tupaia

Please post your thoughts when it is done.

Hi, just an update on the process...

Rigging is finalised in Dyneema, Peter Greig was incredibly knowledgeable and I have full confidence that it was done right. Peter said he has done 80 Dyneema rigs and has never had a failure, so no reason to think ours will be the first

We were going to change the rigging "in situ" but when we checked out the electrics in the mast they were a nightmare, so we decided to drop the mast, replace all the electrics and do the rigging at the same time. It would have been only a few days, but the wet season had its say so we had the mast off for over a week - quite a stressful time! Fortunately everything went back together prefectly and I am now confident with all my electrics - including a new VHF antenna, TV / FM antenna and all sub-standard wiring replaced AND LABELLED.

In terms of cost, I had three different quotes for replacement in stainless, and Peter's quote for Dyneema was up to $3,000 cheaper than those.

Hopefully we will have the last of the tidying up done in a couple of weeks and we'll be able to tes tthe new rigging with some canvas up.

[Dali Chris]

Interested in your feedback now that it’s field tested…!?
I have an Lagoon 400 and like the idea of the swap, but haven’t found any examples out there.

[Trevor Doble]

Hi Chris. We haven't done much sailing as yet, have used the "wet season" as an opportunity to do some upgrades including lithium batteries and air conditioning (essential for Cairns!). We are hoping to cast off as soon as the weather turns, so I'll keep you appraised on the dyneema rigging. At this stage it seems really good, but hasn't been put to the test yet.

[Dali Chris]

Hi there. Some time has passed, how is the Dyneema holding up?

[Trevor Doble]

Originally Posted by Dali Chris

Hi there. Some time has passed, how is the Dyneema holding up?

Hi Chris

We've covered just over 3,000 nautical miles since the re-rig and very happy with it.

I've had to take up a bit of tension on it. First 12 months maybe 3 times and once more since. It is a very simple process and only takes around half an hour.

All the rigging is in tip top condition, no complaints at all.

Trev

[Dali Chris]

Wow, and you’re on a L380 right? What did it involve and cost? Are you willing to share? I’m about ready to re-rig so looking at options. I guess a challenge will be to find a suitably experienced person in the Western Caribbean though

[Trevor Doble]

Originally Posted by Dali Chris

Wow, and you’re on a L380 right? What did it involve and cost? Are you willing to share? I’m about ready to re-rig so looking at options. I guess a challenge will be to find a suitably experienced person in the Western Caribbean though

Yes,we have a Lagoon 380 S2 from 20028.

We're quite new to this, so I had the whole job done professionally.

It turned out to be more involved than we first thought, because we found some of the wiring inside the mast was faulty, and because of previous work that had been done badly we weren't able to fix them. This meant we had to take the mast down in order to redo all the wiring, instead of replacing the rigging "in place" - this added several days to the job. If not for that, he would have just replaced the stays one at a time while supporting the mast with temporary stays.

So the whole thing, including dropping and re-stepping the mast, replacing most of the in-mast wiring and replacing the rigging cost us around $11,000 AUD. If it had had been done in place it would have been closer to $9.000 AUD.

Hope this is helpful.

[AndyOz]

Other advantages: deterioration is usually extremely obvious, unlike SS. So failure will likely be gradual rather than instantaneous.

Sure, it can (with a lot of effort) be cut or frayed from chafe, more so than SS. But that's obvious too.

And a rigger can inspect and recertify for insurance, I'm unsure that is possible for SS.

[fcftampa]

I've heard insurers like to have wires 10 years max. Is there a number for synthetics coming from insurers or others? Txs

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by Tupaia

He works out of Sydney



Been excellent. Saved in excess of 30kg aloft and very stable.
Dynex Dux overbraided with Dynex finished with hi load stainless thimbles at each end.


I would be interested in how "Peter" has achieved Dyneema furling forestays. I did not think this was possible.

Regarding furling forestays, it depends on what that exactly means. Dyneema can certainly be used for a forestay with structural furlers, where the sail can be furled away or fully out, but not reefed. We have that on our boat, though recently replaced Dyneema with PBO. But if it means using Dyneema in place of SS wire with a traditional furler and inside a forestay foil, that’s a recipe for unseen and unknown chafing. But if the Dyneema is overbraided or sleeved that could be OK. Still a lot more risky than using wire inside the foil.

For the OP, replacing wire with Dyneema on catamarans is commonly done only with side stays and backstays if any. Diamond stays remain wire, due to potential for chafe and requirement for no movement relative to the metal mast. Forestay remains wire if you want to continue to use a traditional furler.

[Tupaia]

Originally Posted by fxykty

Regarding furling forestays, it depends on what that exactly means. Dyneema can certainly be used for a forestay with structural furlers, where the sail can be furled away or fully out, but not reefed. We have that on our boat, though recently replaced Dyneema with PBO. But if it means using Dyneema in place of SS wire with a traditional furler and inside a forestay foil, that’s a recipe for unseen and unknown chafing. But if the Dyneema is overbraided or sleeved that could be OK. Still a lot more risky than using wire inside the foil.

For the OP, replacing wire with Dyneema on catamarans is commonly done only with side stays and backstays if any. Diamond stays remain wire, due to potential for chafe and requirement for no movement relative to the metal mast. Forestay remains wire if you want to continue to use a traditional furler.

Correct my forestay and diamonds are SS.