450: Bowsprit Removal

[LeeV]

I posted this in the wrong "size" forum by accident. Looking for a suggestion so I don't further damage the sprit; as it is I'm not sure a metal shop will be able to help as there's quite a crease in the sprit.


We had our 450 F on a mooring in the Palm Beach area and current/reversal was so strong it pulled down over the stays, ripped the small cleat out of the dolphin striker, and had such downward force that the sprit took a huge crunch halfway up where it hit the blade of the anchor, hung there and just kept pulling. Nobody was on the boat, so it was like that for days.


Now I can't figure out how to remove it from the pivot point. There seems to be a small pin with a split ring but with the ring removed the pin doesn't come out or push through. Has anybody removed their sprit?

Ideas?

[Tin Tin]

The ring pull is probably corroded in place and will require some elbow grease to free up. Best bet is to undo the pivot bolt on the main beam, careful not to drop the bolt and nut in the water.

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

The ring pull is probably corroded in place and will require some elbow grease to free up. Best bet is to undo the pivot bolt on the main beam, careful not to drop the bolt and nut in the water.

So the pin should come out. I thought as much; otherwise why have a split ring! I'll take some Blaster with me and soak it down while working on one of the other million tasks! :-) If it doesn't come loose, I'll use your suggestion and remove from the beam.



Thanks!

[Tin Tin]

There sections of this post that may interest you


https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...it-209640.html

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

There sections of this post that may interest you


https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...it-209640.html

Thx for the reference. My last 4 trimarans all had furlers, the last used a low friction ring to take the continuous line furler out to the end of the sprit from a line to the foredeck. Easy stuff. My problem is just gettin this stick off and determining if it can be repaired. Otherwise I’ll have to make a carbon version or look at aftermarket. ☹️ More time & $$

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

There sections of this post that may interest you


https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...it-209640.html

You were right! The later photos of the sprit disassembled helped.
Thx,

[Tin Tin]

Originally Posted by LeeV

Thx for the reference. My last 4 trimarans all had furlers, the last used a low friction ring to take the continuous line furler out to the end of the sprit from a line to the foredeck. Easy stuff. My problem is just gettin this stick off and determining if it can be repaired. Otherwise I’ll have to make a carbon version or look at aftermarket. ☹️ More time & $$

You could probably just sleeve the existing one with next size up alloy tube rivitted in place, the minor additional weight won't make any difference to a L450. An inside sleeve would work too depending on how bad the dent is.


While you are at that end of the boat check the chain wear on the anchor support frame in the U near the roller. Later model lagoons had stainless rub plates to protect the alloy, if you don't have them get the machine shop to make up a couple while you are there.

[Dsanduril]

Originally Posted by LeeV

So the pin should come out. I thought as much; otherwise why have a split ring! I'll take some Blaster with me and soak it down while working on one of the other million tasks! :-) If it doesn't come loose, I'll use your suggestion and remove from the beam.

Thanks!

Just in case you missed it in the other thread:

Originally Posted by peterp

...firstly lets deal with the pin, the locking pin is spring loaded and it cannot come out, you simply pull on the pin enough to release it from the locking groove in the main holding shaft...

These joints are the same as Forespar spinnaker pole pintles, the pin doesn't actually come out, it simply gets pulled up against a spring. So it certainly doesn't get pushed in. Corrosion and salt get in and then you just can't budge it. Either patience and persistence with the lubricants, or a retrofit as shown in the other thread. You can also try turning the pin to see if you can break it free.

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

Just in case you missed it in the other thread:



These joints are the same as Forespar spinnaker pole pintles, the pin doesn't actually come out, it simply gets pulled up against a spring. So it certainly doesn't get pushed in. Corrosion and salt get in and then you just can't budge it. Either patience and persistence with the lubricants, or a retrofit as shown in the other thread. You can also try turning the pin to see if you can break it free.

Yep, I saw it. I’ve used PBBlaster and penetrating oil or 2 days, with a variety of tools. Got it to turn but it refuses to budge vertically. I’ll keep working it this weekend between the other jobs. If I don’t get it I’ll resort to an alternative pinning method.

Thx,

[meirriba]

As mentioned, the pin is protected against loss, so it does move only enough to release the bowsprit but cannot be taken out.
If it already turns, you may attach a locking pliers to the pin and hit the pliers lightly from below. Lightly as to cause it to move upwards but not cause damage to the internals.
You may also try to replace the split ring with a piece of dyneema and pull on the line, it is easier than pulling on the ring.

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by meirriba

As mentioned, the pin is protected against loss, so it does move only enough to release the bowsprit but cannot be taken out.
If it already turns, you may attach a locking pliers to the pin and hit the pliers lightly from below. Lightly as to cause it to move upwards but not cause damage to the internals.
You may also try to replace the split ring with a piece of dyneema and pull on the line, it is easier than pulling on the ring.

Yep, I know how the internals work, and while it does rotate - grudgingly - it still will not move up. I’ve used penetrants, hot water, the pliers and tapping, and replaced the split ring with a steel rod and line on both sides to exert upward pressure. Still no luck. I’ll just keep at it, and maybe it’ll work free. Frustrating....

[Tin Tin]

No doubt you have already tried levering it up with a claw hammer or pry bar, another idea is to attached spinnaker halyard via a fine dyneema line to the pin, put pressure on the halyard and tap pin and surrounds with a hammer and maybe apply heat at same time. Keep your head out of the way in case something lets go. Personally I would take pole off and work on it on a work bench and vice. The hinge bolt should come out out anyway and be re-greased/tefgel it as it too is stainless in an alloy housing.

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

No doubt you have already tried levering it up with a claw hammer or pry bar, another idea is to attached spinnaker halyard via a fine dyneema line to the pin, put pressure on the halyard and tap pin and surrounds with a hammer and maybe apply heat at same time. Keep your head out of the way in case something lets go. Personally I would take pole off and work on it on a work bench and vice. The hinge bolt should come out out anyway and be re-greased/tefgel it as it too is stainless in an alloy housing.

Yep, tried the levering with no result. The heat, however, I’ve not tried. Part of my problem is I’m still recovering from my broken ankle and it’s still hard to move around, let alone monkey myself around the striker, etc. I noticed the hinge bolt has black caps; is that a solid bolt with a locknut?

[Tin Tin]

Black plastic caps prise off. Solid bolt with lock nut. Will need two spanners/vise grip, spray first with WD40.

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

Black plastic caps prise off. Solid bolt with lock nut. Will need two spanners/vise grip, spray first with WD40.

Will do next weekend; thx!