Mahe 36: Stiff steering

[Rufduck]

Update.
You guys nailed the whole bearing replacement scenario and really made my life easier. Thank you, all.
Hauled the boat in Bellingham, WA and explained exactly what I wanted to do. They were all great and the lift operator juggled a launch to let me pull the rudder before he removed the slings when I told him I would have it ready to drop in 20 minutes.
I was prepared to jack it down from the top but he grabbed another yard guy (when Linda offered to give him a hand) and I levered down as they rotated it back and forth. No swear words (it came later) and it was out.
As soon as the rudder was clear, they blocked the boat with 12”x12”x16” blocks under the mini keels and a couple of screw jacks fore and aft and I got to work on the frozen bearing.
Just as you described, white powder compacted into glasslike flakes had it frozen tight. Drilled 2 6-7mm holes through the plastic bearing parallel to the shaft hole and a 10mm wood chisel carved out a groove. If you do it in the middle of the cut out area in the race, the race walls are nearly parallel to the shaft hole. Had no issues nicking the race.
I thought that I would insert a crescent wrench into the groove and rotate the bearing. No way. Take a drift and drive the bearing like you are trying to close the cut groove and it will free itself from the walls of the race. Not really free but loose enough to rotate and pry out.
Found the curved end of a 12” crescent wrench was useful to scrape the plated crystal flakes that closely resembled compressed salt that were plated to the aluminum walls of the race. Final careful polish with 180 grit and lathered it up with Lanocoat including the shaft and the outside of the new bearing.
Bit of caution here. With the bearing lathered plus the same inside of the race, the bearing wouldn’t go in. Drove with a rubber mallet and no joy. Heart failure…did I have the wrong bearing? Removed and measured new and old which were the same. Never thought about the viscous Lanocoat not flowing enough to install. Rocked, wiggled, rubber mallet…removed and examined for debris. Wiped a small amount off, installed and carefully rotated it. The rotation did the trick and it was firmly in place.
The big travel lift picked up the boat and a Couple of guys lifted the rudder and it floated into position as I pinned it.
Said I needed 20 minutes to launch and Lift operator said he would launch me last thing and had other boats to launch with the small lift. I was ready at 4pm and we started about 1230. It was a record hot day in Bellingham and I collapsed.
At 5 o’clock the lift operator rapped on the hull and we crawled down. I took one look at the rudders (swear word here) and saw they were not parallel…As in not even close. The operator saw my reaction and the problem as I said “I installed the belcrank upside down. It’s the only explanation.”
It was quitting time on a hot Friday so I apologized and asked if he could splash me Monday. I would come back Saturday and fix my mistake. We did and at 9 am Monday we were on the way back home.
The rudder is perfect and I even adjusted the rudder angle sensor to read null when straight ahead.
$705 plus a couple hundred for the bearing. I figure my labor is cheap education.
Thanks again for all the help.
Martyn and Linda Adams
S/V One World
‘07 Mahe 36

[Rufduck]

One other thing. Linda carefully worked the stainless rudder shaft with 600 grit paper to remove a small amount of corrosion around where the bearing rested. She also polished the entire length of the shaft which made reinstallation significantly easier just one thing to remember. There was a small amount of deformation along the alignment grooves at the top of the rudder shaft that I cleaned up with a flat file. Dry trial fit of the new bearing showed up any areas that needed attention.
Martyn

[redneckrob]

Originally Posted by Rufduck

Update.
You guys nailed the whole bearing replacement scenario and really made my life easier. Thank you, all.
Hauled the boat in Bellingham, WA and explained exactly what I wanted to do. They were all great and the lift operator juggled a launch to let me pull the rudder before he removed the slings when I told him I would have it ready to drop in 20 minutes.
I was prepared to jack it down from the top but he grabbed another yard guy (when Linda offered to give him a hand) and I levered down as they rotated it back and forth. No swear words (it came later) and it was out.
As soon as the rudder was clear, they blocked the boat with 12”x12”x16” blocks under the mini keels and a couple of screw jacks fore and aft and I got to work on the frozen bearing.
Just as you described, white powder compacted into glasslike flakes had it frozen tight. Drilled 2 6-7mm holes through the plastic bearing parallel to the shaft hole and a 10mm wood chisel carved out a groove. If you do it in the middle of the cut out area in the race, the race walls are nearly parallel to the shaft hole. Had no issues nicking the race.
I thought that I would insert a crescent wrench into the groove and rotate the bearing. No way. Take a drift and drive the bearing like you are trying to close the cut groove and it will free itself from the walls of the race. Not really free but loose enough to rotate and pry out.
Found the curved end of a 12” crescent wrench was useful to scrape the plated crystal flakes that closely resembled compressed salt that were plated to the aluminum walls of the race. Final careful polish with 180 grit and lathered it up with Lanocoat including the shaft and the outside of the new bearing.
Bit of caution here. With the bearing lathered plus the same inside of the race, the bearing wouldn’t go in. Drove with a rubber mallet and no joy. Heart failure…did I have the wrong bearing? Removed and measured new and old which were the same. Never thought about the viscous Lanocoat not flowing enough to install. Rocked, wiggled, rubber mallet…removed and examined for debris. Wiped a small amount off, installed and carefully rotated it. The rotation did the trick and it was firmly in place.
The big travel lift picked up the boat and a Couple of guys lifted the rudder and it floated into position as I pinned it.
Said I needed 20 minutes to launch and Lift operator said he would launch me last thing and had other boats to launch with the small lift. I was ready at 4pm and we started about 1230. It was a record hot day in Bellingham and I collapsed.
At 5 o’clock the lift operator rapped on the hull and we crawled down. I took one look at the rudders (swear word here) and saw they were not parallel…As in not even close. The operator saw my reaction and the problem as I said “I installed the belcrank upside down. It’s the only explanation.”
It was quitting time on a hot Friday so I apologized and asked if he could splash me Monday. I would come back Saturday and fix my mistake. We did and at 9 am Monday we were on the way back home.
The rudder is perfect and I even adjusted the rudder angle sensor to read null when straight ahead.
$705 plus a couple hundred for the bearing. I figure my labor is cheap education.
Thanks again for all the help.
Martyn and Linda Adams
S/V One World
‘07 Mahe 36

Glad you got it done. It's so nice to have understanding yard guys who will cut you a break isn't it? Now you'll be remarking on how easy it is to turn the helm for the next year, who knew how nice such a little thing you take for granted is!

[Rufduck]

Actually, it makes backing harder. Darn fool rudder keeps wanting to move off center as I back into my dock.
Rufduck

[Kazamaran]

Hey there Rufduck! So pleased you've resolved the rudder issue and thank you for the recognition to I and others. I think it's important to completely understand that steering system for obvious reasons. But also nice to get a level of experience to be able to analyze and plan repair or maintenance. After managing my repair I have no intimidation whatsoever on what's what and how to troubleshoot and correct. To your reverse comment, I use a twin strap on the steering wheel that snaps to the same snaps as part of my helmet cover. When I'm docking or leaving I snap the little harness up because you're not going to use the steering wheel. Works like champ and I don't have to be concerned about my knee on the steering wheel or forgetting and having the rudders slam against their stops.
Good luck and happy to see you're back in the hunt.
Ken

[Alexmass]

There are often problems with the steering wheel. But everything can be solved

[Adelie]

Is the steering wheel lock dragging?

[redneckrob]

Originally Posted by Adelie

Is the steering wheel lock dragging?

Perhaps you can show me where the steering wheel lock is on my Mahe? I've never been able to find it

[Adelie]

Wheel lock seemed like low hanging fruit that might have been overlooked.
That’s unexpected.
I am a tiller guy. I rented a boat with a wheel for a week and have cruised or raced on friends boats with wheels maybe another 2-3weeks.
Wheel lock was always a screw knob on side of binnacle.
If you don’t have that I got nothing.
Owner’s manual?

[redneckrob]

Originally Posted by Adelie

Wheel lock seemed like low hanging fruit that might have been overlooked.
That’s unexpected.
I am a tiller guy. I rented a boat with a wheel for a week and have cruised or raced on friends boats with wheels maybe another 2-3weeks.
Wheel lock was always a screw knob on side of binnacle.
If you don’t have that I got nothing.
Owner’s manual?

Yeah, there isn't one on the Mahe unless you did some kind of aftermarket self install...in which case you would probably know about it. As those of us who actually have the boat explained in exhaustive detail in this very thread and the OP confirmed just a few posts before yours, it is caused by rudder bearings that get stuck in their races on this particular model of boat.