Orana 44: Solution to Squeaky Floorboards

[jglauds]

Hi:

I'm probably the last person in the world to figure this out, but ever since we boight our Orana (#21), I've been annoyed at the squeaks issued by the floorboards whenever I walked on them ... in fact, this unfortunate issue was also referenced by Cruising World when they awarded the Orana a "best boat" in 2008 or so ...

So for several years, I've tolerated the noise ... and trying to understand its cause. It wasn't the rubber padding that is glued to their bottoms, and so I figured it had to do with the torque of the board itself, thinking (erroneously, it turns out) that the veneered plywood was working on itself.

This morning, an apparent eureka, and I kick myself for taking this long ...

I used a plain bar of soap and rubbed the edges of the floorboards where they contact the edges of the fiberglass lips ... silence at last.

I think the squeaking comes from the rubbing of the floorboards against the SIDES. Easy fix, long time coming.

Again, I might be the last person to figure this out, or the only person to have this issue, but in case there's someone else out there who wakes up every time their spouse uses the head in the middle of night, this one's for you.

Cheers,

/jon

[Johnathon123]

Nothing like annoying little issues, spent many a day chasing them.

For a longer term solution you might like to consider graphite, I have used powder but did see a paint the other day

[nigel1]

My Bene suffered from the same, rubbed some graphite along the edges of the sole boards, problem gone

[Aluna]

I will give anything to stop the squeak where my back bulkhead meets the deck and hull on my Orana. There is veneered plywood glued to the bulkhead behind which you cannot get to. May be I should drill a small hole and inject some washing up soap !

[sailingaway221]

I used a sticky rubber tape... worked great!

[jglauds]

Graphite seems to be better than soap ... and for areas where non-structural veneered plywood is rubbing against fiberglass as the boat's hulls work, I've actually used a fine-toothed saw to cut back the points of friction. In some areas, FP just cut it too close given the way these and most cats work back-and-forth.

Good luck!

[Aluna]

It sounds like a few tons of effort are making this squeak but for the life of me I cannot see anything that may want to move. It is just one monolithic mass of a fibre glass.

I know every boat has got em, but trying to find them ... well FP have to build in something to complain about !

[jglauds]

If it's not meant to move, and it's accessible, you might consider epoxying a few layers of carbon fiber cloth over the joint.

I had to redesign my chain roller to accomodate my Rocna, moving the fulcrum of effort forward, and as a result, the forward edge of the chain locker, where the chain exits the boat, was flexing. I removed the chain roller, laid in 6 layers of carbon fiber, and presto -- solid as a rock even when I've had to lift 300' of 3/8 chain from the briny deep ...

Just a thought.

/jon

[senormechanico]

Originally Posted by jglauds

Graphite seems to be better than soap ... and for areas where non-structural veneered plywood is rubbing against fiberglass as the boat's hulls work, I've actually used a fine-toothed saw to cut back the points of friction. In some areas, FP just cut it too close given the way these and most cats work back-and-forth.

Good luck!

I did exactly that where a FRP edge met a teak bulkhead.
A little careful sawing with a piece of hack saw blade did the trick.

[Aluna]

Yeh, may be I can get to it from the engine compartment. I will need some flexible layers of carbon mat.

What size Rocna you got ? I've got a 40kg. I had to lower the roller and strengthen the GRP above. The Wife won't go near it when it has to go up or down -- at least with such a big one you can sleep at night.

[David M]

A little wax might work as well.

[bnizette]

My Athena 38 had the same annoying issue. So i bought some latex rubber tape. Used 3 mm under the floor on the cross beams and then 1.5mm tape where the floor met either the hull or the trim boards on the hull.

Walking around a quiet boat is extremely pleasing.

Regards
Brian

[Aluna]

Can any of you help me. I am trying to find a suitable location to fix a LED TV so that it can be turned to be view both outside and inside the saloon. I have the idea that I could use an articulated arm fixed to one of the stainless steel posts that support the roof just inside the saloon. Has anyone come up with a similar solution ? I am away from my boat, could someone tell me the diameter of the steel posts ?
Richard

[jglauds]

Hi -- sounds like it might work, but make sure you can still open the cupboard on the starboard side; I'd suspect that a port deployment would get in the way of cabin egress, as well as spoil the view from the galley/sink.

The pipes are 4.24 cm +/-, or about 1" 11/16 in diameter -- at least they are on mine, hull #21.

Good luck.

/jon

[jglauds]

Hi -- sounds like it might work, but make sure you can still open the cupboard on the port side; I'd suspect that a starboard deployment would get in the way of cabin egress, as well as spoil the view from the galley/sink.

The pipes are 4.24 cm +/-, or about 1" 11/16 in diameter -- at least they are on mine, hull #21.

Good luck.

/jon

(Reposted due to dyslexia on port/starboard )