Lucia 40: Solar and Lucia 40

[Terbonium]

We will be running 3 separate controllers, 1 for each panel (Victron 100/30) As to best combat any shading of the panels that may occur. 3 X22 360watt panels with just the slightest of overhang aft of the coach roof. No hangover to the sides.

Installation has not happened yet. Will be doing that in the next month. We had to get moved aboard first. I'll be sure to post images when complete.

S/V Long Shadow, Hull #97, Home Port Miami Florida

[Falbala60]

Originally Posted by Terbonium

We will be running 3 separate controllers, 1 for each panel (Victron 100/30) As to best combat any shading of the panels that may occur. 3 X22 360watt panels with just the slightest of overhang aft of the coach roof. No hangover to the sides.

Installation has not happened yet. Will be doing that in the next month. We had to get moved aboard first. I'll be sure to post images when complete.

S/V Long Shadow, Hull #97, Home Port Miami Florida

So you are still on the SunPower... I agree they give the most for small overhang. I made a SolidWorks 3D model from the "pictures of the drawings" form FP options list. They are approximate maybe to "better than the inch close" but they are not for manufacturing.

I don't like hull attachments with an hinged fitting at the end, like stanchion ones, and much prefer SOLID frames, also because at the center the panel frame will be higher. So this is the preliminary design I made for costing purpose. It can be made in 3 parts, right-left miror and 2 central tubes.

If I can get exact dimensions of the bimini end, I can make a manufacturing drawing any shop can bid on.

[Terbonium]

Falbala60 - That's very close to our design with the addition of two angled supports from underneath the coach roof vertical supports towards aft that tie into the leg like structures you have on the aft support that runs port/starboard. There is just too much flex in the factory roof aft of the traveler not to have some type of stiffening installed. The brackets will start at 6'2" above the deck and angle upward/aft. There is 0 chance of us bumping into it.. And, we decided if we we
were going to debate what we could bump our head into, there are a dozen other existing areas that could be addressed.


That was a messy word picture, hope you can decode it.

[MKB53]

Falbala, I agree totally that lots of solar is good. I tend to be a bit minimalist and hence no AC and genset.

I also agree that solar on the davits is not a good idea. I had that on my last boat and it always seemed to be in the shade. You get much better exposure on the bimini. Likewise I find it hard to understand why they did not allow for bigger panels in the design.

When I remount my flexis I will be up to 750Watt which should meet our needs unless there is heavy oven and water maker usage. We use a convection microwave rather than a gas oven.

My current set up has the 3 panels in series to a Victron 100/30 MPPT which is great. I did a series installation as the cable run is long and the higher voltage is better. When I remount the flexis I will use another 100/30 for them.

[Falbala60]

Originally Posted by Terbonium

That was a messy word picture, hope you can decode it.

I agree that the aft of the rigid bimini is not "very rigid" and nobody can stand there, but I tought that solar panels could.

You are great, you make me afraid and if I understand well, you will add a triangle braket at the top of the main sail track support post, under the fiberglass of the bimini that run to the end.

About like this... (the main track is there but not the "fiberglass chanel")

[MKB53]

If anyone wants a more detailed description and photos of the cable routing send me a PM with your email address and and I will forward by email as it is cumbersome putting it all in the thread.

One thing to note, if you have a parallel wiring setup with multiple controllers you will be routing multiple cables which could get tight in some places. Parallel with a blocking diode and a single controller may be a better option.

[Terbonium]

Heres quick walk around under the coach roof.

https://youtu.be/p1MMmvZT5NY

[Terbonium]

Originally Posted by MKB53

One thing to note, if you have a parallel wiring setup with multiple controllers you will be routing multiple cables which could get tight in some places. Parallel with a blocking diode and a single controller may be a better option.

The VMpp of the Sunpower panels are 60v/6amp. 11-14AWG would be acceptable for the necessary run. I'll be running the wire in the next couple weeks and I'll report back what I find.

[MKB53]

High voltage. The panels I am using are 25V open circuit so you can put 3 in series although Victron recommend 2.

Also, with DC the voltage regarded as "Dangerous" is over 70V or 80V so with 3 or 4 in series you need to be careful although there is probably not enough amperage to do real harm. I treat it like a mains circuit to be on the safe side.

[Falbala60]

Originally Posted by Terbonium

The VMpp of the Sunpower panels are 60v/6amp. 11-14AWG would be acceptable for the necessary run. I'll be running the wire in the next couple weeks and I'll report back what I find.

So with 60VDC, I understand it must be parallel, but with a single controler how will be the shading effect of overall efficiency ? I always heard that multiple controler is much better. If cable ducting is a problem with multiple cables, is it possible to enlarge the openings... just a bit.

[MKB53]

As a disclaimer - I don't claim to be an expert on this, just giving feedback from my experiences.

Cabling: In most of the cable run there will be room but there are a few choke points including the final conduit run into the engine room. The cable I was supplied was very thick. 6mm twin core but it was round with a heavy neoprene casing. It would have been very difficult getting 3 of these through some areas. If I had the standard "Flat" twin core you get in Australia it would have been a lot easier and you may well get 3 through. The high spec casing is unnecessary as it is not exposed to oil or sunlight.

Multi controllers: I can't comment as to whether 3 is more efficient than one. I obviously gives you redundancy which is a good thing. My gut tells me that I would prefer one device monitoring battery state and adjusting current etc than 3. The other comment is that while the engine room is quite spacious there is not a lot of space on the "wall" to mount them. I would map the installation out before committing.

Parallel: If you do do a parallel installation you must fit blocking diodes to prevent current flow back into a shaded panel as this can and will damage the panel. Panels generally have a built in Bypass diode to protect them in serial installations but as far as I can tell it is rare to have a blocking diode.
I lost a panel on my old boat this way.

There is a website that provides basic info on PV that I have referenced before

PVEducation

[Falbala60]

An other option...
I have grabbed the idea of an other thread (but not for a Lucia) to have fixed panels and a similar set that slide underneath.

This could avoid any overhang when "we do not want it", giving 480W with 2 Panasonic 240W, and 960W when light wind or at anchor/mooring.

This is an idea that I propose to the other Lucia owners that are planning solar installation. If other rigid (flexible have a much less durability) panels are suitable for the Lucia space aft the mail rail, please propose them.

If this please to others, I can make a research for good stainless slides and a more detailed design.

[MKB53]

The slide out panel is an interesting idea. In my case I have 300w of flexible panels set in the "tray". My new panels will go over this area and if they were to slide out that would allow the flexi panels to work as well.
I was planning to relocate the flexi panels to another spot but will consider whether a slide is an option. Or a set of hinged rods.

I have my flagpole fixed behind the panel so this would have to move for a start.

[Falbala60]

Originally Posted by MKB53

The slide out panel is an interesting idea. In my case I have 300w of flexible panels set in the "tray". My new panels will go over this area and if they were to slide out that would allow the flexi panels to work as well.

I was planning to relocate the flexi panels to another spot but will consider whether a slide is an option. Or a set of hinged rods.



I have my flagpole fixed behind the panel so this would have to move for a start.

If a slide like this is OK (they mentioned for marine application and with that price this not an IKEA one) I will make a design.

https://www.ovisonline.com/28-Heavy-...0lb-P1835.aspx

The only thing I miss is the true 3D shape of the bimini, I did one with scaled pictures in the 3 planes... but not for manufacturing !
If I would have it
... OR ...
a 3D scan of the aft and bimini would be great :-)

[Falbala60]

Going deeper in the analysis of how to get the best solar installation on a Lucia, I stole the idea of having part of the installation that is removable with a sliding drawer.

- this can limit the overhang and keep the "design" of the aft part of the Lucia
- I found, until now that the Panasonic N245 can make it very sleek... open to any other suggestions.
- the slide are Sugatsune 5302-700 or 800 depending the distance between panels to reduce possible shading.... capacity 140# x 2 = 280# ... which is quite OK if not used at see.