Mahe 36: Raw water pump D1-30B

[Rufduck]

I have successfully removed and replaced the water pump">raw water pump on the port engine in my ‘07 Mahe. Found water in the bilge and the water shaft seal was leaking. Pulled the pump and ended up simply replacing the pump with the Italian version at half the price. The shaft was grooved so I’m looking for a complete kit to rebuild it.
The starboard pump needs an inspection also but with the hot water tank installed it appears that clearances will be very tight.
Anyone replaced that pump and is there enough room to work on it? Must I remove the hot water tank to access it?

Cheers,

[rmaher]

The Orana installation is different but very simple. Have you pictures of the issue? Also, curious what "italian" pump you reference?

Thanks - Rob

[Rufduck]

Thank you for your reply.
I chose to remove the pump to replace the impeller on the starboard engine. Too little room for my 6’3” 260# body to even attempt to just replace the impeller.
I was told to pull the pump straight out vs cocking it sideways and not to force anything. With the hot water tank there, it is not possible but pulling straight out until the pump contacts the tank and then angling it slightly inboard, gently feeling for the index, allows it to come free. The hoses posed the worst problem and installing the bottom hose, by far the worst. Lubing them for reassbly with some clear RTV did the trick.
Once completed, I did a water leak test and discovered the shaft seal was beginning to fail. Similar to the port engine pump. I disassembled the first pump and found I needed a new shaft plus the seal. I suspect that this one will be the same, so I’m ordering another complete pump.
The pump I’m referring to is available from Parts4engines. No part number but if you click on VolvoPenta D1-30B and scroll through the bits, it comes up. The important parts are the same and it’s stamped “Italy”. Total with shipping (4 days from England to nw USA) $292 US. It didn’t include the “0”-ring seal between the pump and the engine so I added it to the order.
I’ve no financial interest in the company but their service is brilliant. Knowledgeable very pleasant people and by far the best service I’ve found in Europe. In fact they are faster and cheaper than similar companies in the states.
Cheers, Martyn

[rmaher]

I think you should be careful using a silicone on the hoses. The old "head mistress", Peggy Hall, long ago suggested KY Jelly and I've found that helps get hoses on with ease and without residue.

Thanks for that website, very useful!

Rob

[Rufduck]

The silicone RTV is for a secure seal for the hoses. The hoses are pvc with a wire reinforcement and had some type of secondary seal. I don’t like reusing old hoses as sealing can be problematic. I’ll nip an inch off each end to install the new pump.
I pack the impeller with KY jelly and use it for all water contact parts that require initial lubrication. It also works beautifully to hold dry balls in traveler cars and also has less mundane uses.
I’ve been sail boating for a couple of decades with the Mahe my first luxury cruising boat. My prior boats were all Corsairs and found that there was virtually no maintenance save repairing or replacing what we broke while racing. The only real “systems” were the rig/sails, engine, instruments/electrical and navigation. Of those, only the rig/sails was critical. The others were trivial with a $2000 engine the most costly. My fuel bill for a year was rarely more than $100.
It has taken me some time to realize that the Mahe on the other hand is a collection of expensive bits and pieces in numerous systems, the failure of any one of which can spoil a beautiful spring and summer. Now that I realize this, it has become a source of amusement and in a somewhat masochistic way, enjoyment.
Fair winds and beam...err, following... seas.
Martyn

[Rufduck]

Just an update.
Parts4engines received my order last Tuesday. I entered it online late Monday our time with an 8 hour time difference. I received it at the house late Thursday afternoon. Amazing!
The pump is an Anchor ST123 from Italy. It comes with a performance data sheet and I’m told all the innards are interchangeable with the original pump. It has a recommended maintenance schedule of 500 engine hours or less if conditions warrant.

Others may be able to simply remove the backplate and extricate the impeller but I found it refreshingly simple to remove the 4 10mm mounting bolts and draw the pump free of the engine.. it is mounted adjacent to the injection pump and is on the “front” of the engine with access only from the top and sides.
With the pump in place, I pulled the discharge (top) hose but found the bottom hose stubborn and left it attached. Handy to know if just replacing an impeller. Once out, I cut the hose where the pump nipple ends and trimmed the other hose the same.
A bit of fiddling to install the new pump. Install all 4 bolts before tightening the first one and press the pump in place with one hand while tightening with the other. Anyway, that’s what worked for me.
The hoses went on so easily that I fussed with the first one for ten minutes before I realized that it was all the way on.
It took me about 2.5 hours the first time to pull, replace the impeller, replace and test but less than two hours to swap the pumps, including transferring the drive gear. The drive gear is a taper fit held together by a 14 mm nut and lock washer. I opted to install the nut with a drop of Permatex Blue (removable) thread locking compound but it may not be necessary.
There are doubtless other ways to do this but this way works.
Hope that it helps someone.

Cheers, Martyn

[rmaher]

Very useful, thank you!

Any problems with the 0-ring that mates to the timing cover?