Last time out we ran both D1-30B engines at sustained 2600-2700 RPM
. Both temperatures were elevated to 200*+ and remained so even at reduced power, <2000 RPM
. The raw water
pickup in the saildrive
leg has been problematic for the last three years with muscle growth internally. Cleaning
is only feasible from in the water as a baffle plate separates the leg from the seacock. I made the decision to install a tandem pickup for each engine.
Original plan was to install one for each engine but on the 4 hour run to the haul out
, only the port engine misbehaved, so decided to only do the port engine and evaluate to see if it makes a significant difference.
Choosing location. At first I planned to install just aft of the rear saildrive
mount. Two problems…just barely enough room for the backing block and there appeared to be a significant void between the engine mount saddle and the hull.
I chose to locate it just beside and slightly forward of the rudder
post on the inboard side. It misses the grounding plate and appeared to be in a location where the saddle and hull appeared to mate well. Preliminary figment of assembled seacock gave ample room for access and movement of the shutoff handle. The location was marked and indexed.
I used a disc angle grinder to prep the surface of the saddle and a 1 1/8” hole saw to bore the hole. There was a 3/16 deep void between the two surfaces that I filled with 6-10 thickened epoxy
and let cure. The next day I finished drilling the hole.
I prepped the bottom by making a round sanding
mandrel that fit in the hole and was slightly larger than the OD of the bronze
. Ground off the anti foul. Trial fit the assembly.
Final assembly. I completely assembled the seacock, backing block, 3/4 bronze
barb fitting using 4200 as the inside sealant
between the backing block and the seacock. Bolts with washer and lock washer tightened.
I decided not to gamble that I could assemble everything with the 6-10 adhesive
and the 4200 mushroom sealant
at the same time. So, I wrapped Teflon pipe tape on all the through hull threads except the last 3/4”. The tape would preclude the epoxy
from binding the threads of the mushroom to the seacock if there was too much squeeze out. Linda fed the mushroom and tightened as I held the seacock assembly. Let cure at 80*f.
Next day she unscrewed the through hull and I’m glad I added the Teflon tape as the squeeze out contacted the threads.
Applied 4200 to the mushroom and plenty on the shank and screwed into the hole in the hull.
I sourced a length of 3/4” ID spiral reinforced vinyl hose and found that 30” is ample. I also found a pair of 306 stainless 3/4 barb tees (later found the same in bronze) and inserted into the existing pickup hose from the old seacock to the strainer. Coupled the new seacock to the branch.
I chose Groco based on recommendations from some whose opinions I respect. I was satisfied with the prices from Defender (east coast US). The ss tee came from Amazon. They are for the commercial food
and beverage industry and appeared well made. I was stuck for screw clamps as all mine were fractionally too small. They will be replaced with HPS 27-16 3/8” wide embossed clamps as the 1/2” wide ones are too wide.
The stbd engine bay has the hot water tank and hose for the shower
along with some other clutter. However, I don’t foresee any major problems installing the second one in the same relative position (inboard and just ahead of the rudder post) if I deem it necessary.
An upside is that I have discovered a new contortion that allows access to the forward part of the engine 😃
I apologize for the orientation of the pics. Don’t know how to correct. Any questions please ask.