ST7000 Autopilot Problem - Randomly Steers Hard to Port

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Pblais

You really don't want raw Fluxgate readings. They don't include the course computer deviations that it stores when you swing the ship during the on the water calibration. They don't get stored on the compass itself. The output from the ST7000 includes the mag heading along with all the other goodies. So yes, it needs to be on.

Actually it does. That was the reason the previous owner of my boat bought this unit.

The KVH fluxgate is an autocomp model, it is always in compensation mode. The older computer on my ST7000 does not have any compensation like newer models.

Autocomp 1000

[jstevens]

Phantom,
Sorry to jump into this thread after all these years. I think I've read and understand the previous posts to get me up-to-date.
I had intermittent problems with my Raymarine AP several years ago when cruising in the Med. Not the same as the problem you have. In my case the AP was dropping out of Auto into Standby.
The first possibility suggested by several Raymarine reps was the drive motor. If it is failing it can cause problems with the course computer. At the time I had a Type 400 computer. I replaced the motor in the Type 2 drive unit (about E100 at the time, I think) and the problem went away for a few days then came back.
At that point the only suggestion from the local reps and Raymarine was to replace the course computer, which I did (many Euros - mine was long out of warranty). That did fix the problem. Since then I've put thousands of miles on the AP with no recurrence.

I still do not know what caused my problem, only guesses.

• My original SSB installation had the SSB output cable running within 1M of the course computer. I had fixed the SSB installation issue before the AP problem surfaced, but the damage may have already been done.
• The drive motor may still have been the culprit, having damaged the computer before it was replaced.
• The course computer may have just failed on its own with no help from me.

The point from my experience is that you may have fixed the source of the problem with the changes you have made over the years, but the damage could have been done to the course computer.

I regret my only suggestion is to replace the most expensive component in your configuration. At the time I decided to replace my course computer (with the S3 computer) I could have ordered the part from Raymarine, but it would have cost more than buying the equivalent Core Pack from a local dealer. It would take weeks to get the part from Raymarine, but the Core Pack could be delivered in a few days (this was Spain, nothing happens overnight* in Spain). So now I have a spare rudder sensor and fluxgate compass.


Good Luck,


John


*Many people believe manana means "tomorrow" in English - it really means, "not today".

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by jstevens

the damage could have been done to the course computer.

I regret my only suggestion is to replace the most expensive component in your configuration.

true. Going to hope for the best. The corepack for the older Raymarine/Autohelm (type 100) is no longer available. The only choice is to upgrade to the current model, which means an entire new system (tridata, repeaters, corepack, etc).

I haven't used it this season, but I turned it on and everything seemed OK..so far.

I can't imagine one of the NMEA wires losing connection would destroy the computer.. but you never know.

Will see how it works this season.. I soo don't want to replace the system. I can deal with the price (don't like it..but can deal with it), it is just installing new wind, speed, depth sensors, new gauges..the wiring..omg..the wiring is going to be horrific..and of course the new depth and speed sensors don't fit in the holes of the old sensors..

So I am deciding that everything is A-OK

[jstevens]

"The only choice is to upgrade to the current model, which means an entire new system (tridata, repeaters, corepack, etc)"

Your shd be able to upgrade "just" the corepack, as I did to replace my Type 300 computer (typo'd in my previous post as type 400). That's still a big chunk of change.

I agree, the NMEA input is unlikely to have damaged the computer. More likely it is another electrical device or wiring in proximity to the computer, if not the drive motor.

I re-read the previous posts and noticed the recommendation from Raymarine on putting a resister across the joystick terminals. Did you ever do that? The fact that the course computer goes into joystick mode (is this still the problem?), IMO, strongly points to the course computer. AFAICT, the course computer will go into joystick mode whenever the joystick is activated. Since you do not appear to have a joystick, something internal to the course computer must be telling it there is joystick connected and it has been moved.

I understand your reluctance to throw money at the problem, until it happens again. Hopefully if it does it is not intermittant.

I've fixed a few problems through procrastination - hopefully it will work for you as well.

John

[phantomracer]

True I should be able to upgrade just the corepack. The problem is Raymarine does not sell the type 100 computer anymore. They won't even service it. They said if the computer case was black (like mine), it was no longer serviced and NLA. I guess there may be some used/NOS out there, but not from Raymarine.

I have not put the resistor across the joystick terminals (I forgot to do that). He said it might be the cause..but was not certain. Figured it wouldnt hurt to do.

If it was just throwing money at electronics, I can do that..easily..

its the installation, running wires, new repeaters and control panels (hopefully would cover the old holes), etc that is the issue with going new.

I am thrilled though, to find a bonafide problem in the wiring that was not intermittant. Maybe there is something else wrong elsewhere.. but I am glad I nailed one problem.

[Pblais]

Not the same as the problem you have. In my case the AP was dropping out of Auto into Standby.

MY ST6000 did that too. It was the DB25 connector that ties the wires to the main computer / power supply. I found someone that could fix the boards but not fixable because the actual connector went bad. Loss of signal drops it out of auto to standby always.

Common to have solder joints go bad. Re-soldering the connectors was tried as it is a common way to fix them. Navonics wave soldering wasn't that reliable 20 years ago. RayMarine never did do board level repairs. You need an old guy to do that stuff.

New course computer is nice and 20 years newer, a lot smaller, and finally able to learn like the Simrad / Robertson did 20 years ago. No more Sea State settings required.

[jstevens]

Phantom,
Again, it is a lot of money, but I believe you should be able to replace your Type 100 with one of the current corepacks sold by Raymarine. That should not require major wiring changes. The Seatalk, NMEA, Clutch, Drive and power connections should all be able to use your existing cabling.

I upgraded from the T300 to the S3 6 years ago. You should be able to upgrade to an SPX 10 or 30 depending on what type of drive unit you have.

John

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by jstevens

Phantom,
Again, it is a lot of money, but I believe you should be able to replace your Type 100 with one of the current corepacks sold by Raymarine. That should not require major wiring changes. The Seatalk, NMEA, Clutch, Drive and power connections should all be able to use your existing cabling.

I upgraded from the T300 to the S3 6 years ago. You should be able to upgrade to an SPX 10 or 30 depending on what type of drive unit you have.

John

Just telling you what they told me. If that is the case, thats great.if it acts up again.. that may be the route i go

[phantomracer]

Just an update on this thread (I know everyone has been waiting breathless!).

Confident it is fixed. Had issues with the KVH heading sensor (have another thread on that drama). There was a bad connection in a junction box. R+R the NMEA wires, making cleaner connections, seems to have fixed it.

Not a single issue all season. Used the AP for hundreds of miles this year, under sail and power. Steered like a champ. Operated flawlessly!

When I installed the repaired fluxgate from KVH, I had no reading on the AP or chartplotter. ran a new wire from the sensor to the mux, and it worked.. walla.. checked, reconnected the wires at the junction box.. all was good!

So just because a connection LOOKS good, no rust, corrosion, nothing, clean as a bell.. doesn't mean it is good!

[Tipright2]

Rudder sensors fail. You can test for proper resistance readings to confirm.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Tipright2

Rudder sensors fail. You can test for proper resistance readings to confirm.

Yup they sure do. Mine seems to be doing OK. My issue was a bad wiring connection (see my post above). Just hauled the boat out today. The AP worked flawlessly all season. Not a single malfunction all season

Thanks all!

Paul

[Carlisle Spirit]

Originally Posted by Tipright2

Rudder sensors fail. You can test for proper resistance readings to confirm.

How do I perform that test ?

Has anyone got a debug flowchart showing how to analyse and then fix Raymarine autopilot issues ?

[Finistere]

Originally Posted by phantomracer

true. Going to hope for the best. The corepack for the older Raymarine/Autohelm (type 100) is no longer available. The only choice is to upgrade to the current model, which means an entire new system (tridata, repeaters, corepack, etc).

I haven't used it this season, but I turned it on and everything seemed OK..so far.

I can't imagine one of the NMEA wires losing connection would destroy the computer.. but you never know.

Will see how it works this season.. I soo don't want to replace the system. I can deal with the price (don't like it..but can deal with it), it is just installing new wind, speed, depth sensors, new gauges..the wiring..omg..the wiring is going to be horrific..and of course the new depth and speed sensors don't fit in the holes of the old sensors..

So I am deciding that everything is A-OK

Don't need an entire new system, look at the ITC 5 converter from Raymarine, depth, speed, wind and flux gate can be hooked up to it and it will provide Seatalk NG. You will require an I70 display unit to calibrate the transducers.

[phantomracer]

wow brought an older post back to life! I am 99.98% sure I found the core problem, being a bad connection at a junction. The AP and st50 system worked flawlessly all season.

Apparently if the AP does go south, I can reuse a lot/most of my system. Got some bad advice from Raymarine support last year. If I do need a new computer, I think I will need a new control head? which will suck as it will look out of place on the boat, and hope the new head will cover the space where the old control head was. Will be on the lookout for an old system to keep in the wings 'just in case'

[Pblais]

The wire harness on the computer can go bad where the two parts connect. It can't be fixed (I had someone that knows try) . Mine was fine for a long long time then suddenly went belly up. A new control head will take up about the same space as the old one.

The new computers really are better. They learn more and faster like the nice Robertsons. Yes, the two cost a lot but be glad if your RAM is working well and installed properly. That part costs even more. Rudder feedback controllers are dirt cheap and put out a variable voltage hard over port to starboard. If you put a multimeter on the wires you should see a smooth voltage as you steer from one to the other. If it skips it's bad and if it is smooth then it's not. The computer calibrates the voltage range to the mid point when you do the calibration.

The fluxgate can go bad and actually can be installed poorly - even it has appeared to work properly. If you unmount it and leave the wires connected you can rotate it at the dock and watch it transition between the 90 degree quadrants. Those transitions should be smooth. You just need an assistant to watch the heading display at the helm as you rotate it. It's easier than doing it on the water.

The above are easy things you can do and once you eliminate the compass and the rudder feedback it's probably the computer or wiring gone bad. Raymarine pretty much wants to sell a core pack with the computer but you might find a dealer that will bust it up and sell just the computer.