powering Starlink Mini direct from DC

[lucseawalker]

Question 1: How much current can I save by running my new Starlink Mini directly from DC to DC versus using the included standard AC 120-250- power pack?

Question 2: how to do it simply?

Apologies in advance if the answer to my questions are already posted somewhere .. I am confused by different solutions and so far what I tried does not work see below

Since Starlink claims to the Starlink Mini runs anywhere on 12 to 40 VDC,

1> I tried to run it directly on the battery bank that gives 12-14v >>> nothing
2> I installed a small DC-DC booster to boost the power to 30VDC (same as the voltage delivered by the standard power pack) >>> nothing
3> I reduced that DC-DC booster voltage to 20V >>> nothing

I wonder if my issue is the female connector I am using to connect the male connector of the original Starlink cable. Perhaps the inside pins are not making contact??? I hate cutting the Starlink cable if I can avoid it ... If I had not already installed the dish, I could have easily unplug the cable from the dish (not very easy to do now) and check for continuity.

So before I cut the cable to check if voltage goes trough and hard wire it directly in the DC-DC booster, I would like to get confirmation the the booster works and what is best voltage to set it up ...

Many thanks for any tips on to best doing this

[Letterkenny]

Originally Posted by lucseawalker

Question 1: How much current can I save by running my new Starlink Mini directly from DC to DC versus using the included standard AC 120-250- power pack?

Question 2: how to do it simply?

Apologies in advance if the answer to my questions are already posted somewhere .. I am confused by different solutions and so far what I tried does not work see below

Since Starlink claims to the Starlink Mini runs anywhere on 12 to 40 VDC,

1> I tried to run it directly on the battery bank that gives 12-14v >>> nothing
2> I installed a small DC-DC booster to boost the power to 30VDC (same as the voltage delivered by the standard power pack) >>> nothing
3> I reduced that DC-DC booster voltage to 20V >>> nothing

I wonder if my issue is the female connector I am using to connect the male connector of the original Starlink cable. Perhaps the inside pins are not making contact??? I hate cutting the Starlink cable if I can avoid it ... If I had not already installed the dish, I could have easily unplug the cable from the dish (not very easy to do now) and check for continuity.

So before I cut the cable to check if voltage goes trough and hard wire it directly in the DC-DC booster, I would like to get confirmation the the booster works and what is best voltage to set it up ...

Many thanks for any tips on to best doing this

Just buy the cable that does the Starlink barrel connector to USB C. First party is better but there are third parties as well.

[Tupaia]

Obtained the following from Amazon, worked using the standard uncut cable.



1. Connector 5.5 x 2.1 mm, 2 Pin DC Power Jack, Female DC Adapter
2. Greluma 1Pc DC Booster Converter Regulator 12V to 24V, 5A 120W Power Adapter



Have you checked the actual voltage out?
There is quite a power draw during start up. Is your converter able to supple the required amperage?

[lucseawalker]

Originally Posted by Tupaia

Obtained the following from Amazon, worked using the standard uncut cable.



1. Connector 5.5 x 2.1 mm, 2 Pin DC Power Jack, Female DC Adapter
2. Greluma 1Pc DC Booster Converter Regulator 12V to 24V, 5A 120W Power Adapter

>>> Tnx, I will check it out

Have you checked the actual voltage out?

>>>Yes, but not when it is connected to the mini, but I will check it when connected

There is quite a power draw during start up. Is your converter able to supple the required amperage?

Perhaps that could be the issue>>?? How many amp about?

[lucseawalker]

Originally Posted by Letterkenny

Just buy the cable that does the Starlink barrel connector to USB C. First party is better but there are third parties as well.

>>> Where do I connect the USB C then?

[Tupaia]

Originally Posted by lucseawalker

Perhaps that could be the issue>>?? How many amp about?

25-40W (I measured 21W when running) so assuming a 12v supply then max is about 3.33A. DC-DC converters are usually 3 or 5 so opt for the 5A.
Also the connections have to be perfect the standard cable is long so the voltage drop is considerable hence the need for more than basic 12v supply.
If you shorten the cable 2-3m then 12v might just do it. If you cut the cable you will end up with a spare with waterproof end plug.

[lucseawalker]

Originally Posted by Tupaia

25-40W (I measured 21W when running) so assuming a 12v supply then max is about 3.33A. DC-DC converters are usually 3 or 5 so opt for the 5A.
Also the connections have to be perfect the standard cable is long so the voltage drop is considerable hence the need for more than basic 12v supply.

>>> you might be right

If you shorten the cable 2-3m then 12v might just do it. If you cut the cable you will end up with a spare with waterproof end plug.

>>> very good idea, I have a few extra meters all rolled up ... so might as well cut the cable to minimize voltage drop and have, like you say, a spare waterproof end cable. Clever

[Hoosiersailor]

I just run mine from a small 100 w plugin inverter. It's such a small amount of energy I can't imagine the inefficiency of 12v to AC conversion is going to amount to much. And we only have the 50 GB plan so I only turn it on when we need it

[Kelkara]

Have you checked the plug size? that looks like a 5.5x2.1mm plug ... but the mini specs state 5.5x2.5mm. If that is true, your plug will go in, but may not make a good connection.

[wrwakefield]

StarLink just started selling a ‘Mini car kit’ [US$45] which includes a 5m USB C cable [with the standard SL waterproof plug on antenna end] and a 100 watt power unit [using the antiquated standard ‘cigarette lighter’ plug] rated for 12-24V DC. [I’m waiting for mine to arrive. Screen shot appended since you have to log into your SL account to see accessory offerings; https://shop.starlink.com/products/u...r-adapter-mini ]

You can also purchase just the 5m USB C -> Mini cable for US$31.

RE: Power specs: They are listed on the SL site:

https://www.starlink.com/specifications?spec=5

Our Mini averages 21W; up to 37W when booting and seeking satellites [snow melt option is off…]

HTH

Cheers, Bill

[gnetwerker]

The advice above is mostly good. Here is what works for me:

This (10ft, 18AWG) cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DDL4Y9WK



to this 12V outlet to USB supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C3B51KDJ

I tried several other solutions first that did not work. The 100W PD outlet appears to be the deciding factor.

When I move my Mini from it's transient installation on my coach roof to something more permanent on the aft rail, I'll run a low AWG 12-V socket aft in a sheltered place and continue to use this.

[lucseawalker]

Originally Posted by Kelkara

Have you checked the plug size? that looks like a 5.5x2.1mm plug ... but the mini specs state 5.5x2.5mm. If that is true, your plug will go in, but may not make a good connection.

Thanks for that observation ... I will get the right plug and it might just ne the issue

[FlyingScot]

I took the factory supplied cable, cut it to around 12" long and spliced in 14/2 AWG Ancor brand wire and ran it to a 10A blade fuse in a Blue Sea multi fuse holder then to a Blue Sea Powerbar 600A busbar. The busbar is connected by 4/0 AWG. I tucked the standard cable portion up under the dish and put on a couple layers of heat shrink. Nothing special, but you will need LiFePO4 voltage, not GEL or LA. Works perfectly 24/7. Overall length to busbar is maybe 15 feet.

Uses about 21 watts average according to the App. No losses through any inverters.

[lucseawalker]

Originally Posted by FlyingScot

I took the factory supplied cable, cut it to around 12" long and spliced in 14/2 AWG Ancor brand wire and ran it to a 10A blade fuse in a Blue Sea multi fuse holder then to a Blue Sea Powerbar 600A busbar. The busbar is connected by 4/0 AWG. I tucked the standard cable portion up under the dish and put on a couple layers of heat shrink. Nothing special, but you will need LiFePO4 voltage, not GEL or LA. Works perfectly 24/7. Overall length to busbar is maybe 15 feet.

Uses about 21 watts average according to the App. No losses through any inverters.

>>>> Great way ... with everyone's ideas, I will get there soon Ynx

[OldManMirage]

I bought this cigurette lighter adapter cable with a 5521 barrel plug and it works just fine. I've been using it for several months now with no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's only $11.99