PL 259 coax connector

[lady sophie]

I need to install VHF and AIS coax. Has anyone used the Shakespeare PL-259 solderless connectors? Any reviews? I have RG-8X coax.

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by lady sophie

I need to install VHF and AIS coax. Has anyone used the Shakespeare PL-259 solderless connectors? Any reviews? I have RG-8X coax.

Not me nor would I ever use a PL259 which isn’t silver plated with a solid dielectric. Among all the problems people have with VHF, poor or bad connections is the most common. Always use good quality connectors and s either solder the braid and center conductor or use the proper crimper designed for the appropriate size coax and still solder the center.

[Bycrick]

The Shakespeare solderless connectors might work in a dry basement in Chicago. For a while. They have no place on a boat. (See MaineSail's article). I learned how to solder PL-259 connectors in the 1950s. With a lot of practice, a box-full thrown away, the right tools and a big soldering iron, working with lots of room, a Vice to hold the wire while soldering, and some luck, I can get most of them right.

But I don’t try anymore. Buy the correct fittings from a reputable manufacturer, for the exact cable you're using, the correct crimping tool for the sleeve/shield is, surprisingly, not expensive. I still solder, rather than crimp, the center conductor. The reason is that I found over the years some poorly designed SO-239 connectors on the back of equipment that didn’t make good contact with crimped center pins. Get the manufacturer's instructions for how to cut the jacket, shield and insulator lengths, exactly. I use a very sharp razor knife. If you make more than a few ends, buy a professional stripping tool. They’re quite expensive, they only work with specified cable types/sizes, but save a lot of time and mistakes. Put good adhesive lined heat shrink over the shield sleeve after crimping.

When you’ve done all of that, they’re still not waterproof. When exposed, they need a covering like CoaxSeal. A TINY dab of dielectric grease on the exposed threads of the nut will make them easier to remove.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by lady sophie

I need to install VHF and AIS coax. Has anyone used the Shakespeare PL-259 solderless connectors? Any reviews? I have RG-8X coax.

They're awful as far as reliability. Get a crimp one and the proper crimp tools.

[Kelkara]

Can someone link to what they conside to be a good crimp PL259 and the correct crimp tool?


I replaced some the other year and I didn't do a good job soldering the braid, and I fear they will need replacing again sooner rather than later.

[Tetepare]

Ok so help ME!

Last year I bought the cut/ crimp tool and a bag of pl259 connectors. They were junk. I DID research this, and that’s the best I came up with. Gimme a link to what to buy and save my stress! Please.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by Kelkara

Can someone link to what they conside to be a good crimp PL259 and the correct crimp tool?

Originally Posted by Tetepare

Ok so help ME!

Last year I bought the cut/ crimp tool and a bag of pl259 connectors. They were junk. I DID research this, and that’s the best I came up with. Gimme a link to what to buy and save my stress! Please.

https://www.dxengineering.com/search...imp-connectors


https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-ut-crmp2


Call them or do your research to be sure you get the right crimp dies for the connectors and cable type you are using. In most cases you can use different slots in the same die for the center conductor and the braid so you don't need two tools or to switch dies constantly.


DX Engineering also has PL-259 connectors with a solder center pin and a crimp for the braid. They are an excellent choice if you are reasonably good with solder and are what I use.


You can also get good PL-259s at rfparts.com, Digikey, and Newark, but it takes some digging to find the right ones.

[donradcliffe]

I've never had an issue with my soldered connectors. Just make sure things are clean and hot enough to make the solder flow.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Tetepare

Ok so help ME!

Last year I bought the cut/ crimp tool and a bag of pl259 connectors. They were junk. I DID research this, and that’s the best I came up with. Gimme a link to what to buy and save my stress! Please.

Another good link. And think about making a donation while you're there. Mainesail has given a lot to the boating community and he could use it about now.

https://marinehowto.com/easy-vhf-terminations/

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

I've never had an issue with my soldered connectors. Just make sure things are clean and hot enough to make the solder flow.

Me neither.


But it's a lost art, and there are better alternatives today for people who don't already have the old skills.


I can write 6502 assembler code, and iron cotton shirts with a sad iron, and know how to replace the crankshaft bearings and seals on a Chevy small block. But I don't encourage young people to learn any of these things. They belong in the Foxfire Books or something.

[Brian.D]

The key is keeping everything watertight. Double wall adhesive shrink tubing is a miracle to behold. Use it all the way to the base of the connection. The double wall does two things: keeps things from moving and keeps things dry.

JMHO

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Another good link. And think about making a donation while you're there. Mainesail has given a lot to the boating community and he could use it about now.

https://marinehowto.com/easy-vhf-terminations/

“Easy VHF Terminations” ~ by Rod Collins, ‘MarineHowTo’* [AKA: “mainesail” on CF]
➥ https://marinehowto.com/easy-vhf-terminations/

* Your donations and purchases help defray the cost of these articles. MarineHowTo.com can only grow & stay alive through reader support.
➥ https://marinehowto.com/
Help Rodd & his family Recover ➥ https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-rodd...f+share-flow-1

[zstine]

I bought pre-connected cable with molded ends longer than my run. Cut the inboard end and fed from the top of the mast so the good/factory connection was outside and the inboard connection I made at my radio is dry below deck. I used a PL259 easy connection... not special crimp. Has been good for a year. I left a slack loop to reconnectorize if/when needed and carry a few spares.

[team karst]

I've soldered PL259's for decades. Two tricks; first, use a heavy iron or a powerful soldering gun. HOT and large iron, can make it brief. Cellular PE is the hardest to work with. Solid is a wee bit easier not to melt. Then, quickly cool the joint with a wet sponge. Do each of the four barrel holes as a separate process. LOTS of heat, but just long enough to wet those holes and solder to the braid at each one. Then cool quick.
The larger size, .4", coax and the medium size, .2" use about the same soldering process.

[Bycrick]

For me, it’s not a question of "can I solder" RF connectors. I can. I learned how in the 1950s. But with the proper crimp terminals, it’s so much easier. I’ve never had a PL259 connector fail after installation UNLESS it got wet. SOLDERED or CRIMPED. So, if I have a choice, I’ll use the crimped connectors. If they’re kept dry, they’ll outlast the coax.