Instrument Pane - Time to ask the experts

[colemj]

Roy, he is making his own - which was the purpose of his post.

Mark

[deltaten]

Beautiful job, Roy!
Pretty much how I was planning to do mine,sans banks of switches.. Speaking of which....is the panel mounted outside? If so,what sw are there? I couldn't make out the labels .
I planned to use aTupperware bin for the mold and laminate a couple layers of glass.

regards,
Paul

[LekiM]

travellerw,

I have a Penta as well and experienced that same skip-a-beat feeling upon looking at replacements.
So, for a FRACTION (!!!) of the price, I purchased a DIY, desktop CNC Mill (Shapeoko), learned to use it, and expect to mill out a new panel soon.

I will soon make many other things, so it will pay for itself in no time: New electronics panels, new dorade boxes, block, etc etc.

So, if you WANT, draw up the panel including dimensions. Sent it to me along with the material of choice and I will happily mill it out for you - screw holes and all. And it will be to spec. PM me. Seriously. I'm still learning and this would be a great starter. I can mill out a test panel from ply and send it to you too... if you'll reimburse mailing costs.

Material - if you take the aluminum + a 12v power supply and a dash of sulfuric acid, you can anodize it. It basically starts the corrosion process for you. But in a controlled way that ultimately protects the material. My $0.02.

[Roy M]

deltaten, The panel is located in the cockpit, under the cockpit seat across from the helm so it can be seen easily. Behind the panel is my electrical locker, making the wiring direct and simple. All of the structure is 1/4" plywood, sealed with West System epoxy, and the switch panel is from Blue Sea, and has been in place, now, for about ten years, answering the question of how well does aluminum plate hold up. I used the exterior switches because I wanted to be able to control outside lights without having to go below. The labels are standard labelmaker (Brother) and hold up very well. The labels read:

Panel lights (first switch at the top, left, so I can find it by touch in the dark), a red LED to illuminate the entire panel

Running Lights: double throw, for Power (lights the deck running lights and steaming light) and for Sail (lights only the masthead tricolor) The compass is lit in either selection because I used double pole, double throw switches.

Instrument lights for when they are needed

Anchor light

Strobe light (because I just like having it)

Deck light switches (four of them, some using double throw) for the Foredeck light, the individual Port and Starboard deck lights (because I can choose between High Intensity Discharge "HID" floodlights for lighting up the night, or lower consumption LED deck lights), and the Aft floodlight. Having these lights is nice if you are doing work on deck, needing to illuminate the dock that you are approaching, or, in the wee hours of the night, using a bunk mounted relay switch, casting a protective cone of bright light all around the boat to respond to the potential bad guys lurking nearby. I also have, at the lowest position on the right side (for Braille conditions) the Night Lights switch which turns on all of the red LED floor, and other location, lamps that make it possible to move about in the dark without waking sleeping off-watch crewmembers.

In addition to the switches, the gauges have accompanying LED lights and buzzers to back up the situational awareness of whoever is on watch. For example, a bright, large red LED to announce that the windlass power is on, a small green LED next to the switch for the Balmar regulator to confirm the Small Engine Mode is activated (if you need all power possible to start the engine), red LED and buzzer if the oil pressure suddenly drops, red LEDs and different sounding buzzers above the Temp gauge, one to indicate the engine is now dangerously hot, the other, tied to a flow switch in the seawater intake line, to warn that something has happened (bad impeller, kelp leaf or plastic bag over the seawater intake) that will shortly heat up the engine, various LEDs and buzzers around the Voltmeter that connect to the Balmar regulator to warn of electrical issues that might need attention, and lights and buzzers above the Racor Vacuum gauge to let the helm know that the fuel filter is crudding up (and that the alternate filter switch needs to be engaged), or that the fuel filter has water in it. In short, should the helm go below to use the head, grab a sweater or make a sandwich, that the alarms will let him or her know something potentially bad is happening. I also have several bilge pump LEDs for the five automatic pumps that I have installed (I hate surprises). And lastly, the Engine Room Fire Alarm. Because all of the buzzers have different sounds, I can be sound asleep, off watch, and still know what terrible thing is about to happen as I grope for consciousness. And, of course, the electronics also have their associated alarms for depth, big things that suddenly show up in front of us, or other issues.

[travellerw]

LekiM - I appreciate the offer... My problem isn't the skills or tools (I own a laser cutter and milling machine) to actually produce a panel, its the substrate to make it with..

Actually, the problem is I'm cheap and would like to make it out of material I have on hand.

At this point, my plan is to make it from the aluminum and anodize with dye (black). My goal will be to make it as close to original as possible but have it last pretty much forever.

[colemj]

What went wrong with the old one? Our two VP panels are continually exposed in the cockpit and look fine after 16yrs.

Mark

[travellerw]

Here is a pic.. Both panels look like this.. The acrylic on the gauges is crazed to the point you almost can't see the gauges. According to my broker he sees this all the time on both Volvo and Yanmar panels.



Sent from my Nexus 4 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by travellerw

Here is a pic.. Both panels look like this.. The acrylic on the gauges is crazed to the point you almost can't see the gauges. According to my broker he sees this all the time on both Volvo and Yanmar panels.



Sent from my Nexus 4 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

It would be simpler and less expensive to replace the lenses in the gauges. You might even be able to buff them back to clear. Take the gauges apart so you can buff both sides of the plastic.

If you don't want to do that, how about buying replacement gauges that fit the original panel?

In the future, keep the gauges protected from the sun when not in use.

Armourall or a similar product from the auto parts store may restore the black plastic except for the missing piece.

[travellerw]

Hhmmm not sure if you noticed the panel, its falling apart. The gauges are not worth saving as the outside plastic rings are shot..

I will just replace everything. I found aftermarket gauges that will hook up to the existing senders.

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[rwidman]

Originally Posted by travellerw

Hhmmm not sure if you noticed the panel, its falling apart. The gauges are not worth saving as the outside plastic rings are shot..

I will just replace everything. I found aftermarket gauges that will hook up to the existing senders.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

Does the tach and hour meter work? What is the Volvo part #?

[travellerw]

The tach I found on eBay and does have an hour meter. It connects the same way as the Volvo tach (via the W wire on alternator). There is another brand (Kus) that will work as well.

I'll see if I can dig up the listing!

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[rwidman]

Originally Posted by travellerw

The tach I found on eBay and does have an hour meter. It connects the same way as the Volvo tach (via the W wire on alternator). There is another brand (Kus) that will work as well.

I'll see if I can dig up the listing!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

I meant the one you are replacing. The hour meter on one of mine doesn't display and the tach is starting to act strange but still works.

[travellerw]

You need to check your connections, maybe redo the connectors. Its the most common cause of flakey readings. The hour meter is just a power device, once they key is turned on it starts counting. Again check connections to ensure its getting power.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[travellerw]

Here is the link for the Tach on Ebay if you want to replace yours... I've asked the seller if its possible to set the initial reading on the hours as I would like it to match the existing tach. I haven't heard back yet.

Electronic Tachometer RPM Meter Magnetic Pickup Hour Meter Programmable 85mm | eBay

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by travellerw

You need to check your connections, maybe redo the connectors. Its the most common cause of flakey readings. The hour meter is just a power device, once they key is turned on it starts counting. Again check connections to ensure its getting power.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

I have checked the connections, even the ribbon cable to the LCD display. The LCD display is blank. The tach doesn't move when the engine is started, then jumps a couple times, then moves to full scale, back to zero and then reads just fine.

The other tach works fine. I swapped them. The problems are with the tach, not the wiring.