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Old 24-01-2011, 15:11   #16
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Cut the cord and then check with an ohm meter The center of the plug is the positive the outside of the plug in the ground easy
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Old 25-01-2011, 05:58   #17
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Thanks to everyone for your help and advice! Once I have completed the installation, I will post a picture. Look for it in about 2 - 3 weeks.
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Old 25-01-2011, 06:40   #18
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Good Thread

Thanks for info one and all. Can anyone recommend a similar set up ie 12v flat screen,TV/DVD combo which can play NTSC and PAL.
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Old 25-01-2011, 06:50   #19
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What is "NTSC" and "PAL"??
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Old 25-01-2011, 07:18   #20
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NTSC AND PAL

I am not a technical boffin, these are the formats for the TV/DVD playing in different areas of the World. In the USA you use NTSC whilst in Britain and South Africa it is PAL. the French use a format called SECAM. Hence there are TVS/DVD players which are multi-players and can play either format. If you put a NTSC dvd in a PAL format player it will not work. Hence one needs a multi-player. Often when cruising one borrows dvds from fellow cruisers. If their format is straight USA NTSC and another cruiser's is PAL (from England)THen to borrow from both the multi-player is the way to go.
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Old 25-01-2011, 07:31   #21
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What ever those are... If the standard home version has a small cube that plugs into the wall socket, then follow the procedure in my previous post, and you can run it off of the boat's 12V system, without using an inverter, with all of it's inefficiency. We have been using these 12 V DC to 18 or 19V DC booster devices, AKA mobile power supply, AKA automobile adaptor... On our lap top computer, as well as the flat screen TV, for years. (even when hooked up at the dock)

I used my link 10 monitor to compare, and found the power draw to be roughly half of what it would be to use a standard DC to AC inverter along with the wall socket black box that comes with these home appliances.

The exact needs are flat easy to figure out! The center = + symbol is a small "C" with a dot in the middle. The dot has a fine line that runs out to a +, and the "C" itself has a small line that goes to a - symbol. In 40 years of electrical wiring on boats, I have only run across a "C" - ONCE! So it is almost certainly "C" +. Still it is easy to check. The AC or DC... voltage and amperage requirements, are written on the back of the appliance, as well as the "OUTPUT current" written on the black box supplied with the appliance. Then you know what to shop for. If it draws more than about three amps, it would be good to either hardwire in the cigarette lighter plug, or use a heavy duty 12V socket, made for higher amperage. They are in marine catalogs.

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