What ever those are... If the standard home version has a small cube that plugs into the wall socket, then follow the procedure in my previous post, and you can run it off of the boat's 12V system, without using an
inverter, with all of it's inefficiency. We have been using these 12 V DC to 18 or 19V DC booster devices, AKA mobile
power supply, AKA automobile adaptor... On our lap top computer, as well as the flat
screen TV, for years. (even when hooked up at the dock)
I used my link 10
monitor to compare, and found the
power draw to be roughly half of what it would be to use a standard DC to AC
inverter along with the wall socket black box that comes with these home
appliances.
The exact needs are flat easy to figure out! The center = + symbol is a small "C" with a dot in the middle. The dot has a fine line that runs out to a +, and the "C" itself has a small line that goes to a - symbol. In 40 years of
electrical wiring on boats, I have only run across a "C" - ONCE! So it is almost certainly "C" +. Still it is easy to check. The AC or DC... voltage and amperage requirements, are written on the back of the appliance, as well as the "OUTPUT current" written on the black box supplied with the appliance. Then you know what to shop for. If it draws more than about three amps, it would be good to either hardwire in the cigarette lighter plug, or use a heavy duty 12V socket, made for higher amperage. They are in
marine catalogs.
Mark